Your truck should have the pink Mopar HOAT in it. Or the goldish Zerex G-05 HOAT. Not green.

Well, if your engine takes too long to idle back to normal, than my engine is low on compression too.

Cylinder bank on is 1,3,5,7 and that is on the driver's side of the engine.

 

yes.....which is exactly why it should be flushed using the tools that dodge has, and should be done completely and fully.

the PO at some point must have flushed it, fixed the rad, or taken it to a place that did a sub-par job and didn't put the right coolant back in.

I don't know if they added green to pink, or drained it completely, but when I got the truck there was no indication that it had HOAT in it at all, or that it had been mixed. it was plain and simply, just green coolant.

 

I think the green would cover up the pink of the Mopar HOAT. A good flush you'll need.

 

so yeah, I have mentioned that twice now.




Anyway, I am noticing that there are times when there are no misfires, for instance, at higher RPM's and this is probably because the fuel/air ratio is more correct at those higher rpms.

Also I was sitting waiting for a train today, so I shut the truck off and when the train was gone I started it back up and drove away to which the throttle responded as normal, but a short short while down the road it was back to misfiring again.

 

Now it is Sounding more like O2 Sensors to me.... because when you turn the truck back on your O2 sensors have to go through their warm-up phase, so your truck will run in "warm-up" (aka OPEN LOOP) until the O2 sensors heat up and begin to function normally.

It might actually be that simple...

 

Well, I've managed to secure employment I've been working a week so far and it seems to be going well, so perhaps I will be able to resolve this at some point hopefully soon.

Cylinders #4 and #6 remain to be the only misfiring cylinders so far, despite the previous codes. I have cleared them from time to time and P0306 and P0304 are the only ones that persist, and it hasn't thrown any more codes since my last post.

I'm suspecting my TPS, but I don't know how that could cause it to run rich.
I suspect this because the AC doesn't cut out at wide open throttle, but does sometimes randomly cut out as if it were at WOT.


I'm also unable to get any power from the engine unless I hammer the pedal and its running at 3000+ RPM. sometimes when going up slight inclines (and I mean slight) it seems to not want to shift out of second.....but perhaps this is also due to the lack of power due to the dead cylinders, because when it shifts and the RPM drops there is no power, so it wants to down shift again.

I guess the important thing here is know how to diagnose the sensors to determine if one of them is in fact the problem, instead of just spending money and replacing sensors.

So how do I begin to test out the sensors that could be causing it?

 

Easiest way is to get a scan tool that will allow you to log the info and download it to a computer....

 

and which would be recommended for that? my dad has a superchips programmer that I managed to lock to my VIN, Im not sure if it had any logging features though, and I'm not sure what I'd be looking for in a log anyway.

 

It might.... depends on what version/model programmer it is...

 

its a flashpaq....and its a POS for a 2002. It barely does anything.

so that being said, can you suggest a programmer/logging tool I could pickup somewhere?