Thanks!

I read through it, unfortunately no diagram of the transmission and port connectors, and the only related code my truck is throwing is P0501 - Vehicle Speed Sensor A / Range / Performance. I have replaced the speed sensor on the rear pumpkin and that didn't help. I am getting conflicting information that the P0501 may or may not also be related to the Output Transmission Speed Sensor on the 4x4 tranny.

Interestingly enough, I ran across this post, which has the EXACT same problems I have:

http://www.justanswer.com/dodge/593m...0-minutes.html

They didn't really answer the question, but did point me towards looking at the fuse for the ABS. It's not getting any AC power at the fuse so likely the ABS module isn't even attempting to come on. Evidently on this model year truck with 4 wheel ABS, the Speed Sensor in the pumpkin goes through the ABS module before it goes to the dash cluster. No ABS module means no speedo (or odo).

Then this link talks about how the ABS leads in the connector on the underside of the PCM can get corroded and the PCM has to be replaced:

http://www.fixya.com/cars/t4514018-2...gine_light_abs

Thoughts?

 

speed sensor is in the left front wheel hub/bearing

 

That's one of them.

On the wiring diagram on one of those links I posted, it has 3 speed sensors that all feed into the ABS system, front left, rear hub, and engine speed. It also has two power-in leads, one switched ignition (fuse #35, which is the fuse that I don't have power supply to so it can't turn the ABS computer on), and one at fuse #6 which I haven't looked at yet.

Since the left wheel took most of the force of the hit in the accident, I'm guessing it trashed the speed sensor in that wheel, so you're right, that one definitely needs to be replaced, but until I can get the fuse block to send power to fuse #35, the ABS module won't get power.

I could technically jumper the wire input to the ABS computer from any other 12V signal to trick it into working, but with all my other electrical issues, I'm thinking I probably should just replace the PCM.

Thoughts?

 

It is certainly possible that it got fried. My PCM got damaged when a coil shorted out. So there appears to be limited protection from shorts in the PCM. But I think the procedure would want to probe out the wiring before replacing the PCM to check for shorts. The service manual does not want the connector directly probed but use of a test connector with probe points.

 

Do you happen to have the testing procedure and which pins they want tested?

At this point I have two fuses that don't have power to them whatsoever, the ABS and the Reverse lights. There may be more, hard to tell with as many problems as I have with the electrical system / dash / lights.

Thanks!

 

I had my PCM replaced at the dealership. With all the issues you have getting a diagnostic check from someone with the right tools and knowledge might be worth it for you. I don't know if your local dealership has a tech that has experience with the electronics or not but if you can find someone that does its probably worth the investment. The wiring diagram in the service manual contains a lot of information but its still lacking in the how and where part of doing things. I have an 05 so you saying you don't and power going to fuse 35 that feeds the anti-lock brake modules.
If that is the case fuse 3 feeds the ignition switch that become F922 that feeds Fuse 35. Fuse 3 get power directly from the battery . If there is power there and the fuse is good, then you need to determine if the switch is getting power. Check if C2 pin 10 at the Fuse box, it should have power. I think is C5 pin 1 for the power coming from the ignition switch. You have already been doing some of the tracing. If you have too you can access the connector in the steering column too.

 

I opened up the steering column on my Dodge Stratus before I found a blown fuse. Check all fuses first.

 

read this thread before you buy a new one..
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/3rd-gen...ng-lights.html

 

Good idea, I read that thread and decided to give it a shot. Didn't take but 2 or 3 minutes to get the fuse box out of the truck, BUT... after half an hour of carefully prying, I can't get the fuse box separated from the lower cover which means I can't get at the circuit board.

What's the trick for separating those two???

 

you have to drill out the holes in the middle were its connected together.
once you got the board out and are done cleaning or soldering, then spray it with lacquer clear to protect it from corroding again.