This guy is not using a relay which might end up putting some stress on the switches, and doesn't provide any safety if the switch fails, so it's your call. it's LEDs so there isn't a lot of current running through the wires but I like to play it safe.

Let us know how it comes out

 

I have them wired to the dome light so far and I got my switches soldered with wires but not installed yet. If I do the relay I just don't know how to wire it up properly. So far I have all 4 strips tied together and tapped into the dome light positive. Please excuse my lack of experience.

 

it's okay.

If I have some time today I will draw in a simple way to use a SPST relay like the one I believe you have there.

You should still use a diode on the dome light wire so you don't end up throwing 12V to them, which will cause the dome light to turn on when you hit the button to turn your LEDs on. (depending on how you wired it to the switch)

Those switches are generally used to throw two relays or act as a very low amperage pass through, so I will adjust my diagram a little bit when I get a minute, and I'll post it up with labels.

 

Here are two options for wiring your LED Strips.

Because you are using a single pull single throw relay (aka 5 pin relay) you will need to use a diode to prevent 12V+ being back fed into your dome light circuit, and you do NOT want to see what happens when you put two 12V+ leads together with no ground in sight...



Let me know if you have any questions.

 

The only problem is once I received the switches they only have 1 side of terminals. Led + -, no1, nc2, and c1.Therefore the diagram is partially correct. I believe the switch is rated at 5 amps and the strips are 35ma iirc.

 

No you have the same switch, they may not have put all the pins in which is what I am assuming is the case.

http://www.oraclelights.com/Images/I...ch.diagram.jpg

You can skip the switch but you'll have to put a diode in place so you don't back feed current at all.

I'm not sure why they wouldn't give you all of the PIN Outs, I'd call them and see what's going on.

Either way you can move the connection at NO2 to the NO1 pin, and keep everything else the same.

If you are wiring the LED Strips in Series (which means Power to + then - to next + and finally - to ground at the end of the strips you're using.) you will have to add up the amperage and make sure you get a diode that will hold up to that amperage.

If you have a good radio shack guy he can help you get the right one if you go in with what the Maximum Amperage is. (you can go significantly higher in current rating if you want to be extra safe.) (remember 12 Volts DC)

And the battery lead with a fuse should still be run to PIN 30 on the relay.

All of this should still operate 100% as intended and the Diode will prevent backfeeding current, so you're system is safe.

I've seen people go overboard and put a fuse after the diode so the fuse will burn before the diode, but that's just overkill for your application.

We can go on for days with a million different ways to wire them, so take my drawing and tips above and go to down.

Oh and my tip on soldering is to heat the WIRE not the solder... there are some good youtube guides on proper soldering...

 

Good deal, I went to radio shack and they're basically cashiers. I searched and searched and the only 12v I could find was 31ma. I also got a combo pack but I'm not sure how to determine the amperage. The 12v diode is a zener and its orange with a black stripe the others are rectifier and they're black with a silver stripe.

 

it should say on the package which is which. If not you'll have to check the Manufacturer's site...

 

Awesome, thanks for your help man.

 

no problem. hope the install goes smoothly