Hey all, I finally am coming to the end of my project on my 2004 Dodge RAM 2500. I put new EBC 7,000 series Green Stuff pads on the front and EBC 6,000 series Green Stuff pads on the back. I also went with brand new EBC Ultimax slotted rotors ad well. I also went with 4 squeaky new calipers from Napa as well so the whole brake system has been overhauled. I am performing the brake bleeding / brake fluid flush tonight.

I am wondering about the proper bed in procedure for this setup. I have been reading about different procedures all over the net. I have even read something like speeding up to 35 mph and stopping like 10 times and then like 2 times stopping hard from 45 mph... I have seen many online who frown upon this procedure.

So, let's start the discussion here. I am interested to see what you all would do here.

Thanks in advance for the replies!

 

I've changed LOTs of brakes in my lifetime and after I change them, i pump the brakes to get pressure and go drive.

 

Anybody have any tips they can share? What do you all think about this article's procedure?:

http://ebcbrakes.com/articles/how-to...ban-driving-2/

Or, should I just go to the stopping 10 times from 35 mph and then do the rolling gradual stops of 45 mph down to 10 mph without stopping like other articles from EBC suggest..?

Gotta love how even the EBC folks don't have an exact bed in procedure..

I am going to be doing something for this later today on these new pads so help would be greatly appreciated!

 

My new BrakeMotive ceramic brakes were pretty simple. They said to get them good and hot, but not to come to a complete stop or lock the wheels up.
So the idea is to go from 55 MPH to 5 MPH as quickly as you can for about 4-7 times.

If these are not ceramic, no particular break-in or bedding is needed. Just make a few normal stops to ensure that they are mated up properly. It's not good to get non-ceramic brakes hot and or ride them hard.

I think you replaced the parking brakes too. For those I think the book just says to gently apply the parking brake at 25 MPH, and let it slow you to a stop.

 

Hehe - yeah I actually got the star gear to turn and all was well and all works well with the original setup of the e brakes...

You know, its weird because I am not sure if the EBC green stuff 7,000 series (what I put in the front) and Green stuff 6,000 series (what I put on the back) are actually fully ceramic. Another thing that EBC is kind of grey on as well. The 7,000 series are a little harder substance. I know that much. Whether or not they are ceramic...? I am not sure.

Can anybody chime in on this at all?

 

Normally, if they have any ceramic in them, the manufacturers are quick to let you know EBC "some color stuff" is propriatary (sp) info. Just follow their recommendations---no matter how strange they may seem.

 

With my EBC setup I followed hat they said and did the speeding up to 35 mph and stopping like 10 times and then like 2 times stopping hard from 45 mph thing.
This apparently, places brake material evenly on the surface of the rotor, reducing the chances of creating high spots that bond to the rotor causing warp.
Be extra careful to not sit with the brakes applied when they're hot on the initial brake in either. as this will facilitate the new pads somewhat bonding with the hot surface of the new rotors. Don't apply them on long downward banks cooking them either, for the first 500 miles and don't do hard heavy stopping in that 500 miles, except for in emergencies. Baby them, as you've spent a lot of money and it'd be a shame to waste it.
That's what I've always done with any new brake setups, with never a problem.
Even with bedded in brakes If I've used them really heavily and got them really hot, I coast up to a gentle stop in neutral using judgement on acceleration/distance etc, letting the pads float over the rotors and not sit with them applied. Aiding in cooling them and stopping pad bond with the rotors causing "high spots" of deposited material where the pads have been left to sit on exceptionally hot rotors.
I read an article somewhere once, that stated it's this pad material bonding with the rotors when hot and only microns thick, that causes the warped rotor issues people oftentimes see. This guy did a control experiment and found that the rotors intrinsically were ok, but all had these high spot deposits on them. So apparently the rotors don't actually warp, but it's the high spots that cause the issues giving that pulsing feel ti the brakes when applied.
Even skimming the rotors wont help to bring the rotors back into spec as the steel due to the heat in the high spots changes it's characteristics slightly and is more prone to further pad deposits. when the guy who wrote the article went deeper explaining molecular properties etc etc......he lost me ha ha ha ha.
As I say, I have no proof of what this guy and his article states, only that I have had no issues with rotors warping following my advice above.
I'll try to find the article and post it.
Hope this helps?
Al.

 

See this link and figure 4 and see the brake deposits.
http://www.centricparts.com/files/Wh...ake%20Disc.pdf

This article also gives fantastic info on the bedding in and use of brakes in general.
Also, fitting of wheels and torquing of lug nuts is paramount in keeping brakes warp free.
Al.

 

Thanks for the info!