What is the best way to remove a broken manifold bolt that has nothing petruding?

I dont think drilling out and ezout is a good idea with head still in motor.

Mig Welder and small nut???

I was replacing manifold gasket today and found out I was missing one bolt
Another one was broken and petruding and I was able to get that out with vice grips.
And then this one which I cant figure out what to do.

 

If you use an easy-out there shouldn't be a chance of getting metal in the head, right? just drill down the bolt, but not all the way and use the extractor. Or am I missing something?

 

Firstly, do yourself a big favor and take the wheel well plastic liner out, so you have more space under there.

If there's enough to mig weld a nut onto it, then go for it.
Remember, PB blaster is your friend, so use lots over time say over night after the weld has cooled.

Or..........carefully and I mean very carefully and many do successfully use this method, drill a small hole down the center of the snapped bolt but as already said, not through it.
There are water jackets around that area so if you go off center, there has been instances of drilling into the water jacket
A whole new kettle of fish right there and trouble!!
Then use the EZ out method, when you have a good hole to use.
Initially go small with the drill size and go slow.
Again plenty of PB blaster.
Al.

 

50/50 mix of Acetone & ATF+4 works better than PB Blaster.... and Liquid Wrench also works better than PB Blaster.... (Been proven)

Regardless... you will need to make 100% sure you can get that Easy Out drilled 100% straight otherwise you WILL cut into the water jackets....

best option would be to get a Nut MIG welded if you can....

I've seen some guys take the easy way out and simply drill the whole stud and thread out and then put a Time-Sert in with a new stud, but it still means you need to drill 100% straight, and you need to make sure you don't drill too deep....

 

here is so info i have came across. when going back together. 1. DO use anti=seize-compound on ALL threads. 2. torque the manifold to 70-80 of full torque after 5-6 full heat cycles take to full torque. and recheck later 3. if it leaks before that go to full torque.