2008 Ram 1500 QuadCab SLT w/15,600 miles

Had my tires swapped out today. Upon inspection, the swaybar bushings are dried up and in need of replacement. I'm thinking a good set of Poly bushings for those. Prob just gonna replace the whole link instead of just the bushings. New link will be greasable w/poly bushings.
When I shook the tire, there was a ton of movement from the pass tierod. I figured this was the cause of my highway vibration ever since the truck was new!
My Rack is leaking out of the pass side bellow. I asume because of the excessive tierod movement.
Both upper and lowe BJ's seem to be fine and the boots are still in decent shape, so those will be staying.

I gathered up a Moog parts list to price some things out:
Outers =MOOG ES80574
Inners = MOOG EV800098
Sway links = Moog K80894

While I dont particularly like the way Moog has the bushings laying over the edge as I am a firm believer of sealing it shut with a spring clip! However, all of the above say; "Problem Solver" because OEM parts lack the articulation needed for the front of these trucks so that's good. I guess I'll just have to flush the insides out regularly with grease which is suppose to be done every oil change anyways.

Also, going to do both seals on the rack:
GATES Part # 348501 which has the boots and clamps as well and a few extra components I dont particularly need.

Total Price shipped = $193
Not all that bad, but not an expense I would expect to have w/only 15kmi on the clock. A bit disapointing. After all, if I had to pay for installation, it I would be up around $1k.

I am unsure of the sway bar diameter or else I would order up bushings for that as well. If anyone can help with that, I'd be appreciative.

I dont want to replace anything else just yet. The truck only has 15kmi and I'd rather not just replace parts for no reason. I also am going to do my best and be diligent with markings so I can try to avoid an alignment for just the tierod ends. I have done this before with good luck. If I find that I need an alignment, then I will reconsider leveling struts and BJ's at the time. But funds are tight right now.


Some side info:
It seems that the manufacturers are now specifying Mega Vs QC by both 8-lug and "Extended Crew" references for all those that are concerned about proper fitment. Regular cabs and crew cabs use same components, 4wd is different than 2wd and 'Extended crew' is the Mega.

 

Dude... bushings failures aren't driven solely by "miles driven" they are also affected by "time".... They are 6 years old... and haven't seen much use so they've sat idle a lot... that means they get dry rotted faster than ones that are used regularly.

 

Well, if I just replaced the bushings with a replacement kit, That would only cost me $11..lol
I def understand the not moving so much with rubber components. That is why I replaced my tires with 9/32nds still on them. Sucks.

It's the tierod and rack failures that tick me off.

 

Mine is a 2008 and my outer tie rod was busted about a month after I got my truck, so I feel your pain....

 

I just replaced all that along with wheel bearings ball joints etc, and I can honestly say that it was way easier that I thought. You do need a pretty big wrench to break the inner tie rods loose. I would do everything while you have it apart. I forgot what I spent on parts but I saved on labor by doing it myself. Not to mention, my truck feels brand new driving down the road.

 

I really didnt want to get invlolve with the bJ's. If I do them, I'll need an alignment ans if I need an alignment I would like to change the front struts out..lol

How did you get the BJ's in/out? did you have them pressed in?

 

rent a ball joint press from AutoZone or something like that. It's really simple to do and besides after doing the tie rods your going to need an alignment anyways

 

I just rented the ball joint press from the auto store. Pressing them out was easy with an impact. I had to improvise a little bit on installing the new ones because the cups supplied with the tool weren't long enough. It's very straight forward. The uppers came with a whole new control arm. I'm not sure if the 06-08 are the same. Btw. The 02-05 4x4 trucks use a thick cast lower control arm so you may not even expirence the tool problems I had. I changed one side out in a hour. It was my first time doing it too.

I did use a big heavy hammer and an air chisel to pop the ball joints loose.

 

Ive done plenty of BJ's in my time. Was just curious on what all you have done... I really dont need to replace the BJ's though. I've used a press, beat some in with a 2x4..lol you name it. depending on where I am or who I was helping.

@ rtmrtrrdr. I am going to try and avoid alignment as stated in my initial post. I've done this several times.
If alignment is needed because I failed at keeping it within spec, then I'll replace the BJ's.

 

I did everything, ball joints, wheel bearings, inner/ outer tie rods, shocks, cv axles, and now rotors and pads. I have yet to get an alignment. I measured up within 1/8" of where the old stuff used to be. The truck runs perfectly straight, tire wear has been fine, and steering feels the exact same.

In my opinion, subtle changes in alignment on a 35" tire wouldn't really be even noticeable. Plus, i need new tires soon anyway so Ill just wait for an alignment then.

I can post pics of my tire wear if you want, but the fronts are perfectly even to my surprise.