Remote start install from hell
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Remote start install from hell
I am trying to install a dball remote starter to my 2006 ram 1500.
You cannot use a harness for a 2006 ram 1500.
So I have wired it EXACTLY as shown in the diagram and the unit functions as it should but doesn't crank the truck.
The unit puts out 12V from the start output when it is not tapped into the trucks start wire but when you hook the units output to the trucks start wire and attempt to remote start----no voltage!
But oh the plot thickens...the first time I hooked it up to the truck starter wire and attempted to remote start it cranked for about 10 seconds but didn't start. Now it doesn't send voltage- or crank. I have checked all fuses.
The red security light also flickers when I hit remote start- I can hear the fuel pump and the radio turns on but no crank.
I know this is a very specific issue but its worth a shot asking for help.
It's almost as if its grounding out or shorting out (not sure of the terms) once it taps into the truck.
2 weeks of endless fiddling with this damn thing and yet I am still going out at 4am to start my -30 Celsius truck..
You cannot use a harness for a 2006 ram 1500.
So I have wired it EXACTLY as shown in the diagram and the unit functions as it should but doesn't crank the truck.
The unit puts out 12V from the start output when it is not tapped into the trucks start wire but when you hook the units output to the trucks start wire and attempt to remote start----no voltage!
But oh the plot thickens...the first time I hooked it up to the truck starter wire and attempted to remote start it cranked for about 10 seconds but didn't start. Now it doesn't send voltage- or crank. I have checked all fuses.
The red security light also flickers when I hit remote start- I can hear the fuel pump and the radio turns on but no crank.
I know this is a very specific issue but its worth a shot asking for help.
It's almost as if its grounding out or shorting out (not sure of the terms) once it taps into the truck.
2 weeks of endless fiddling with this damn thing and yet I am still going out at 4am to start my -30 Celsius truck..
Rookie
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 72
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From: Central OH-IO
I had a similar problem installing the dball on my 06 5.7 using the harness. I'd hear a clicking sound when starting, but no start. I just hardwired the unit, soldering the connections and it worked on the first try. I guess i was lucky.
Due to the low number of connections and hence error, the first bit of advice I'd offer is this.
Are you sure the unit is programmed correctly?
I know it is not very specific but it's hard to diagnose without actually being there on something like this. I feel your pain.
Due to the low number of connections and hence error, the first bit of advice I'd offer is this.
Are you sure the unit is programmed correctly?
I know it is not very specific but it's hard to diagnose without actually being there on something like this. I feel your pain.
Moderate User
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 17,003
Likes: 21
From: Albany, NY
I had a similar problem installing the dball on my 06 5.7 using the harness. I'd hear a clicking sound when starting, but no start. I just hardwired the unit, soldering the connections and it worked on the first try. I guess i was lucky.
Due to the low number of connections and hence error, the first bit of advice I'd offer is this.
Are you sure the unit is programmed correctly?
I know it is not very specific but it's hard to diagnose without actually being there on something like this. I feel your pain.
Due to the low number of connections and hence error, the first bit of advice I'd offer is this.
Are you sure the unit is programmed correctly?
I know it is not very specific but it's hard to diagnose without actually being there on something like this. I feel your pain.
The Dodge Ram needs a 1K Ohms resistor from the 12v starter wire to ground on the bypass module. This is because the Ram doesnt have a standard ignition wire(no 2nd starter wire). The pull down resistor gives the bypass module at a reference point so it can provide voltage needed when triggered.
You will get inconsistent starts and/or no start conditions.
Maybe the DBAL has this built in?? I dont know.
Rookie
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 72
Likes: 0
From: Central OH-IO
I hope you didnt solder the twisted canbus wires up in the ignition harness. That is a NO-NO! They should just be wrapped around several times and taped.
The Dodge Ram needs a 1K Ohms resistor from the 12v starter wire to ground on the bypass module. This is because the Ram doesnt have a standard ignition wire(no 2nd starter wire). The pull down resistor gives the bypass module at a reference point so it can provide voltage needed when triggered.
You will get inconsistent starts and/or no start conditions.
Maybe the DBAL has this built in?? I dont know.
The Dodge Ram needs a 1K Ohms resistor from the 12v starter wire to ground on the bypass module. This is because the Ram doesnt have a standard ignition wire(no 2nd starter wire). The pull down resistor gives the bypass module at a reference point so it can provide voltage needed when triggered.
You will get inconsistent starts and/or no start conditions.
Maybe the DBAL has this built in?? I dont know.
realtree, can you post the wiring diagram you are following? Maybe I can compare it to what I used and look for a difference...
Champion
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 4,489
Likes: 4
From: New Jersey
Did you also install the ignition Immobilizer bypass? I'll bet a 6-pack that's your issue....
DB-ALL or XK09 module will work well for you, just be sure to program it before installing it, and you'll need to tap into the anti-theft system at the ignition switch in the steering column.
Next thing to check is that you wired the EXTRA RELAY, along with a 1130 Ohm resistor into the negative parking lights.... see the following diagram:
http://diagrams.marktoonen.nl/DOWNLO...%20DIAGRAM.pdf
Next, Your truck also uses a single wire door locking system, which requires that you run an 820 Ohm resistor on the lock and a 330 Ohm resistor for unlock... See the following diagram:
http://diagrams.marktoonen.nl/DOWNLO...BS%20UNITS.pdf
(you'll need to know if your control unit has on board relays or not.... if not then you need to get two more relays and wire them up)
You should also use a diode to isolate each door trigger as shown in this diagram:
http://diagrams.marktoonen.nl/DOWNLO...%20CIRCUIT.pdf
what color wires did you tap into for the Start 1, Start 2, and Ignition 1 connections? (it should be Green/Yellow, Purple/Brown, and Pink/White respectively.)
Let me know if you need some more help.
DB-ALL or XK09 module will work well for you, just be sure to program it before installing it, and you'll need to tap into the anti-theft system at the ignition switch in the steering column.
Next thing to check is that you wired the EXTRA RELAY, along with a 1130 Ohm resistor into the negative parking lights.... see the following diagram:
http://diagrams.marktoonen.nl/DOWNLO...%20DIAGRAM.pdf
Next, Your truck also uses a single wire door locking system, which requires that you run an 820 Ohm resistor on the lock and a 330 Ohm resistor for unlock... See the following diagram:
http://diagrams.marktoonen.nl/DOWNLO...BS%20UNITS.pdf
(you'll need to know if your control unit has on board relays or not.... if not then you need to get two more relays and wire them up)
You should also use a diode to isolate each door trigger as shown in this diagram:
http://diagrams.marktoonen.nl/DOWNLO...%20CIRCUIT.pdf
what color wires did you tap into for the Start 1, Start 2, and Ignition 1 connections? (it should be Green/Yellow, Purple/Brown, and Pink/White respectively.)
Let me know if you need some more help.
Moderate User
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 17,003
Likes: 21
From: Albany, NY
Did you also install the ignition Immobilizer bypass? I'll bet a 6-pack that's your issue....
DB-ALL or XK09 module will work well for you, just be sure to program it before installing it, and you'll need to tap into the anti-theft system at the ignition switch in the steering column.
Next thing to check is that you wired the EXTRA RELAY, along with a 1130 Ohm resistor into the negative parking lights.... see the following diagram:
http://diagrams.marktoonen.nl/DOWNLO...%20DIAGRAM.pdf
Next, Your truck also uses a single wire door locking system, which requires that you run an 820 Ohm resistor on the lock and a 330 Ohm resistor for unlock... See the following diagram:
http://diagrams.marktoonen.nl/DOWNLO...BS%20UNITS.pdf
(you'll need to know if your control unit has on board relays or not.... if not then you need to get two more relays and wire them up)
You should also use a diode to isolate each door trigger as shown in this diagram:
http://diagrams.marktoonen.nl/DOWNLO...%20CIRCUIT.pdf
what color wires did you tap into for the Start 1, Start 2, and Ignition 1 connections? (it should be Green/Yellow, Purple/Brown, and Pink/White respectively.)
Let me know if you need some more help.
DB-ALL or XK09 module will work well for you, just be sure to program it before installing it, and you'll need to tap into the anti-theft system at the ignition switch in the steering column.
Next thing to check is that you wired the EXTRA RELAY, along with a 1130 Ohm resistor into the negative parking lights.... see the following diagram:
http://diagrams.marktoonen.nl/DOWNLO...%20DIAGRAM.pdf
Next, Your truck also uses a single wire door locking system, which requires that you run an 820 Ohm resistor on the lock and a 330 Ohm resistor for unlock... See the following diagram:
http://diagrams.marktoonen.nl/DOWNLO...BS%20UNITS.pdf
(you'll need to know if your control unit has on board relays or not.... if not then you need to get two more relays and wire them up)
You should also use a diode to isolate each door trigger as shown in this diagram:
http://diagrams.marktoonen.nl/DOWNLO...%20CIRCUIT.pdf
what color wires did you tap into for the Start 1, Start 2, and Ignition 1 connections? (it should be Green/Yellow, Purple/Brown, and Pink/White respectively.)
Let me know if you need some more help.
He said he was trying to install a DBALL which is where his problems are stemming from. DBALL is a bypass module....lol
The parking light relay is NOT needed with either the DBALL or the XK09. It's all integrated. The 1130Ohm resistor is needed, BUT that illl no way effect the remote starter operation. It will just not flash the parking lights...
Again, DBALL and XK09 are all canbus operated and integrated within. Not needed.
There's only 1 starter wire for the TIPM 06+ Rams which is why a 1K pull down resistor is needed on the remote starter trigger input.
Champion
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 4,489
Likes: 4
From: New Jersey
dude.....
He said he was trying to install a DBALL which is where his problems are stemming from. DBALL is a bypass module....lol
The parking light relay is NOT needed with either the DBALL or the XK09. It's all integrated. The 1130Ohm resistor is needed, BUT that illl no way effect the remote starter operation. It will just not flash the parking lights...
Again, DBALL and XK09 are all canbus operated and integrated within. Not needed.
There's only 1 starter wire for the TIPM 06+ Rams which is why a 1K pull down resistor is needed on the remote starter trigger input.
He said he was trying to install a DBALL which is where his problems are stemming from. DBALL is a bypass module....lol
The parking light relay is NOT needed with either the DBALL or the XK09. It's all integrated. The 1130Ohm resistor is needed, BUT that illl no way effect the remote starter operation. It will just not flash the parking lights...
Again, DBALL and XK09 are all canbus operated and integrated within. Not needed.
There's only 1 starter wire for the TIPM 06+ Rams which is why a 1K pull down resistor is needed on the remote starter trigger input.
I was covering all the rest of the bases with what else might be missing on the rest of the install...
His security light is flashing which means it either is not installed correctly or he hasn't programmed it correctly.
There are two different types of installs for certain dodge vehicles... and you have to know which one to use based on what you find at the ignition switch connector.
There are two Starter Wires.... one might just be more commonly called Accessory or something...
I believe I also mentioned that he wouldn't need relays if they were built-in to the module or not...
Now then... The type 3 install does not have the start wire, which is what I am assuming he used.... what I believe he needs to do is use installation type 4, which has the start wire.... (3 wires total)
That changes how things get wired a little bit.... The wiring diagrams should be in the install booklet in the box with the DB-All or you can d/l them on their website.
Then you have to PROGRAM IT before you attempt to start the vehicle, which means you have put in the 10, 12 and 14 pin harnesses, and then connect the 4-pin D2D harness and wait till the red LED turns on and stays solid red. Then you insert the key, turn it to the on position and blah blah blah you follow the instructions to the T... if you don't wait the amount of seconds or the LED doesn't flash green then there is a problem with how you installed it or something else is going on.... which means you need to follow the "Module Reset" procedure and start over... There is also the "Hard Reset" but that can damage the unit and you'll need to go get a new one, b/c you will have screwed up the programming...
This is why I suggest people bring it to an installer... b/c we can program the things remotely using a computer and a few tools that we get, as well as enable and disable any features we need to... I've had to adjust some DB-All units to make them work b/c sometimes they don't come correctly programmed from the Manufacturer...
I'm MECP Certified dude, I know what I'm talking about.... I made one typo and wanted to go over the rest of the install with the guy.... b/c if you tap the wrong wire, the Relays wont click over at the right time and you end up with a no voltage situation like he's got... the other way that can happen is if the DB-All unit isn't programmed correctly out of the box with the right features/options, but more commonly it's b/c of incorrect wiring.
I will say you are right about the resistors.. that go in after the DB-All...
So if you know more than I do about installing these please tell me where you think his problem is?
Last edited by Izero; Jan 29, 2014 at 03:29 PM.
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Champion
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 4,489
Likes: 4
From: New Jersey
I looked it up:
12V+ Constant = Lt Blue/Red
Starter (+) = Dk Green/Yello
Ignition (+) = Pink/White
MUX = Purple/Brown (aka. Starter 2)
In the same harness there is also:
CAN Lo = White
CAN Hi = White/Orange
Those are a twisted pair.
You should also need to know:
Horn (-) = Dk Green/Purple
Light MUX = White/Lt Green
I even found you guys a little pictoral install that might help:
http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/...asp~TID~130085
Notice how there are Four Wires on the Ignition Harness.... two of which are Starter Circuits...one is simply called MUX [aka MUX Start, or Starter #2]
12V+ Constant = Lt Blue/Red
Starter (+) = Dk Green/Yello
Ignition (+) = Pink/White
MUX = Purple/Brown (aka. Starter 2)
In the same harness there is also:
CAN Lo = White
CAN Hi = White/Orange
Those are a twisted pair.
You should also need to know:
Horn (-) = Dk Green/Purple
Light MUX = White/Lt Green
I even found you guys a little pictoral install that might help:
http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/...asp~TID~130085
Notice how there are Four Wires on the Ignition Harness.... two of which are Starter Circuits...one is simply called MUX [aka MUX Start, or Starter #2]
