Multiple Codes, Injectors?
Is the ground strap located on the passenger side near the AC components on the firewall??
That rotted/broke and is crudely twisted back together. But there are other ground paths are there not?
I can't even see where it connects to the back of the engine, so maybe I'll find a solid bolt somewhere and put a piece of heavy wire from the engine to the chassis.
That rotted/broke and is crudely twisted back together. But there are other ground paths are there not?
I can't even see where it connects to the back of the engine, so maybe I'll find a solid bolt somewhere and put a piece of heavy wire from the engine to the chassis.
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Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 103
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I do not know where the ground strap is on the 4.7L Engines. I know on my old 318 it was right on the front of the engine on one of the bolts holding the accessories on. Not even sure where it is on the Hemi's I have.
All your issues could potentially be caused by electrical issues. Did you ever get a voltage reading or a resistance reading? I still want you to do those before you fix that ground wire. If you want me to help, please get me the information I ask for.
Once you get a voltage reading at idle, and a resistance between the engine block and ground post of the battery, you should fix that broken ground wire. I don't know how many ground straps there are, sometimes there is one off the transmission as well, but the engine/transmission is mounted to the chassis with rubber bushings, not exactly the best conductor, that is why they put the ground straps on. Think of it this way, automakers try to cut costs as much as possible, if there was already enough grounding between the engine/transmission and chassis, do you think they'd sped the money to run an extra ground wire? It is there for a reason. A messed up ground can cause all sorts of issues.
Twisting it together isn't a proper fix, as the surface is probably oxidized/corroded enough to inhibit proper electricity flow, the only fix is to remove the wire and replace it with a new one that is of same size or heavier. When you do your resistance check before and after replacing it, it should give you an idea of how much of a difference it makes. But even if the resistance is good, that just may mean that there is another ground strap with a good connection, but it could still be undersized for the amperage that is required to go through the ground straps, but the resistance is still a good check to do.
When you remove the ground bolt on the engine, make sure to clean up the bolt head and moutning surface so it gets a good connection. I would use the same bolt that they used already, but if you do want to mount it somewhere else, do not mount it into anything aluminum, plastic, or anything insulated from the block of the engine by a gasket or seal. I prefer using the factory spot, because you don't have to worry about any of that, they have already done the homework and determined it is a good ground spot for all factory components.
Once you have done that let me know how it runs.
All your issues could potentially be caused by electrical issues. Did you ever get a voltage reading or a resistance reading? I still want you to do those before you fix that ground wire. If you want me to help, please get me the information I ask for.
Once you get a voltage reading at idle, and a resistance between the engine block and ground post of the battery, you should fix that broken ground wire. I don't know how many ground straps there are, sometimes there is one off the transmission as well, but the engine/transmission is mounted to the chassis with rubber bushings, not exactly the best conductor, that is why they put the ground straps on. Think of it this way, automakers try to cut costs as much as possible, if there was already enough grounding between the engine/transmission and chassis, do you think they'd sped the money to run an extra ground wire? It is there for a reason. A messed up ground can cause all sorts of issues.
Twisting it together isn't a proper fix, as the surface is probably oxidized/corroded enough to inhibit proper electricity flow, the only fix is to remove the wire and replace it with a new one that is of same size or heavier. When you do your resistance check before and after replacing it, it should give you an idea of how much of a difference it makes. But even if the resistance is good, that just may mean that there is another ground strap with a good connection, but it could still be undersized for the amperage that is required to go through the ground straps, but the resistance is still a good check to do.
When you remove the ground bolt on the engine, make sure to clean up the bolt head and moutning surface so it gets a good connection. I would use the same bolt that they used already, but if you do want to mount it somewhere else, do not mount it into anything aluminum, plastic, or anything insulated from the block of the engine by a gasket or seal. I prefer using the factory spot, because you don't have to worry about any of that, they have already done the homework and determined it is a good ground spot for all factory components.
Once you have done that let me know how it runs.
I measured the resistance from multiple points, to the battery negative terminal.
It was 0.5 Ohm from anywhere I measured it.
Voltage while off is 12.28
Voltage at idle is 13.80
I can't figure out how to get the clips off the injectors to measure the resistance across any of them.
It was 0.5 Ohm from anywhere I measured it.
Voltage while off is 12.28
Voltage at idle is 13.80
I can't figure out how to get the clips off the injectors to measure the resistance across any of them.
