I was on the freeway yesterday heading home at about 85, when I had a catastrophic break down in my rear end, resulting in the driveshaft separating from the rear end with the yoke still attached. No one around here is open for me to pull my rear end and take it to them until Monday. It looks like I'm going to have to either rebuild the rear diff, or replace it. If go with replacing it, where can I buy a good rear end?

The truck is a 2006 Ram Hemi, 4x4, 3.92 gears, 9.25 corporate rear axle, with the anti-spin differential.

Edit: Also, what kind of rear end can I put in it?

 

Update. Finally got the carrier assembly out of the rear end. One of the bearings on the pinion gear disintegrated, and the threads on the pinion gear that the nut screws on are damaged, so it seems like it's either going to have to be rethreaded, or more than likely, just replaced.

So looking for new pinion and ring gears, bearings and races, and a driveshaft. Driveshaft is bent, I'm assuming from the impact with the ground at 85 miles an hour. Seriously hoping that there's nothing wrong with my tranny because of all of this.

Since I'm going to have to replace the ring and pinion gear, anyone have any suggestions on what I should get to replace it? Should I go with the OEM or look to an aftermarket? It's got the trak lok lsd in it. Thought about maybe Eaton locker or something. Going to reassemble the rear axle without the pinion gear, so that I can put the tires back on, and get it on a trailer to take it to a mechanic.

 

I have a brand new set of 4.10s (ring and pinion) I will see pretty cheap

 

Unless you have front and rear, they won't do me much good!

 

You can always buy a set for the front and save some money on the rear set.

 

I'd look for the dreaded gouge on the housing from the lsd. There are shells that the diff sets in, they break and slide into the housing bearing perches... makes a real mess, metal shavings everywhere. Might be the cause of your bearing failure. Anyway, if yours is gouged deep - might want to switch housings as well.

 

If there is enough damaged you may want to talk to a wrecker about getting a new axle from them. They sometimes have low mileage ones, and here they go for about $200-400 depending on if you pick/they pick, age, condition, etc. It may be the cheapest/easiest way to go.

 

Greetings, something like that happen to my Ram a few months ago. I was only going about 35 or so. I have a 05 1500. The whole rear-end locked up. On it 32000 miles on it. The dealer replaced the rear-end with a new rebuilt one. Dodge had stopped making them already. When it locked up it also put a hole in the housing the size of a coffee cup. They also replace the drive shaft too. No damage to tranm. So far it is running great. A $4100.00 bill on it. I did have a warranty on the truck .$100.00 for me. Great!!!!!!! They could not tell what had come lose in the rear-end. Maybe a clip, or nut that holds every thing together. Good luck with yours.

 

Thanks for the replies everyone. I ended up putting it on a car hauler and taking it to a differential shop.

Basically, Dodge uses a concave washer with the nut on the pinion to gain the preload, instead of using a locking nut. So what happened in my case, is the bearing wore out, releasing the tension on the nut, and it backed off.

Differential shop will be putting a locking nut when reinstalling. Coincidentally, the nut on a 10 bolt Chevy (if I remember correctly) will fit on my rear end. The driveshaft, yoke, nut, pinion and ring gear, bearings and races, seals, etc will be replaced to the tune of about $1600 so far. $545 for the drive shaft, $120 for the yoke, and $900 for everything else.

There was some slight damage to the carrier, but no other damage to the housing, as far as I could tell. But I'm sure the shop will let me know. It's supposed to be ready by Friday afternoon.

 

You should really slow down.

200 for gears.
125 for a Motive master kit (bearings, races, seals, ring gear bolts, pinion shims, diff cover gasket, pinion nut, ect)

get a shaft and yoke from a salvage yard.

I just rebuilt my rear diff so I know exactly how it works, what goes in it and the cost.

The pinion nut is fine as it is. You just have to put Loctite 242 on it along with everything else.

Like I said before, I have a set for brand new 410s sitting here. They are going to be a lot less than what that shop is bending you over for.