Hi ya'll,

So I recently changed jobs and got a nice little bonus which I decided to put into my hobbies for once. Starting with a nice gun safe, a couple of new guns and most of all my Ram. Since day 1 it has always been a little sluggish due to it's size and weight being a Mega Cab with a Hemi. So besides some cosmetics ( nFB nerf bars, custom fitted floor mats, dash cover etc ) I installed a Wicked flow exhaust true dual in/out cutting out the restrictive y-pipe, Black Magic e-fan, new 160 amp alternator to keep up with the fan, 180* t-stat and all new HOAT coolant, new serpentine, new spark plugs( regular copper ones )a tranny tune-up, Superchips programmer and best of all, 4.56 gears w/ a Mag-Tech cover.

Now I'm running alot cooler, my temp needle used to run in the middle of the gauge and now runs at a 1/4. I came on vacation with my family, hooked up to my boat and the needle immediately started rising, I barely got to the house when my needle was at 3/4. It is a 4 hour drive to my vacation house in Lake Havasu, AZ which is about 115* outside, but the truck ran like a champ all the way here. I went to O'reilly's yesterday and bought a new radiator cap (16#) and it helped a little but the needle still goes over 1/2 and the house is only a couple miles from the lake. Without starting to replace the whole cooling system I thought I would ask for help since this forum is usaully pretty good with their ideas. Any and all help would be very much appreciated and thank you in advance for your time.

 

Why did you install a 180º thermostat? People insist installing one makes the engine run cooler, but it does not, especially if there are other issues. I went through that with my 2nd Gen (would spew coolant when under a load) and I discovered when I rebuilt the engine I should have decked both the block and the new heads. The head gaskets would flex under the extra pressure and allow exhaust gasses into the coolant passages, which resulted in the spewed coolant.

With that being said, perhaps the thermostat is not opening all the way, hence restricting the flow of coolant. Another issue could be bad/worn impellers on the water pump.

You might pressure test the cooling system with a gauge rental from your FLAPS. Another consideration is a carbon gasses check of the cooling system. That will indicate if there is an exhaust leak finding its way into the cooling system.

When is the last time the cooling system was flushed? Coolant should typically be replaced every three years. Today's engines have so many components of dissimilar metals that electrolysis begins the moment a vehicle's cooling system is filled. There could be build-up in the radiator that is causing the system to run hot.

Break it down into steps and troubleshoot first before replacing parts like mad.

 

I flushed the entire system about a week ago and replaced it with HOAT coolant from the Dodge dealership. I would think the t-stat is working fine since it runs great with no load. I like your idea of pressure testing the system though, thanks.

 

Are you running the mechanical fan as well as a E fan? I had a 04 quad cab. same gears as you running 33's. 190 T stat. mechanical fan only pulling 9000lb travel trailer across the U.S. never went more than a needle width above 1/2, even in the rocky mts. I would replace that t stat and put the mech fan back on.

 

I was thinking that as well, the e-fan just not keeping up with the motor. Can I run the mechanical inline with the e-fan? Also why replace the t-stat, you think that the new one is not working properly?

 

My 2007 is 100% stock. Last year, I hitched up a 10' trailer loaded with VW parts and special tools (about 400lbs+ in tools). The cargo box was loaded with parts as well as the back seat area. Two of us were in the truck, in August, and we went from Norman, OK to Eureka Springs, AR. The outside temp was in the high 80s and part of our trip took us through the mountains of Arkansas with the A/C running. The needle stayed where it should.

If you modified your truck for an electric fan, then chances are it is not moving enough air across the radiator to keep it cool. Also, unless you're running a special tune, dump the 180º thermostat.

 

Listen to this feller, he knows his ****.

edit: stuff*

 

I am running the 91 performance tune form the Superchips programmer. Can I run the mechanical fan with the e-fan?

 

Couple of questions...
What do you have for a temp control unit? location?
Do you have the entire shroud sealed off to the fan or is the fan just dropped in place with gaping holes all around? The outer perimeter really needs to be sealed so the fan can pull air across all fins of the radiator.

Honestly, fo me, the stocker does the job and I wasn't risking my Lifetime warranty for the hassle of an electric fan assembly. The only bonus with the electric fan are the few hp gained at the crank...

lastly, how's your transmission fluid?

 

An automatic transmission cooler can help get rid of the extra heat generated. Every 20 degree drop in temperature doubles transmission oil life.