Been a few years since ive replaced the engine in my truck. I was wondering what all am I going to need as far as gaskets. The engine is being sent as a naked block. So I know I'm just trying to get the list together on what gaskets I'm going to need. I have a list at the house (I'm at work) just want to make sure I'm not forgetting anything. Also, What are the options on cleaning the plenum while it's off the engine? take it to a shop and have it boiled?

 

Just get the master gasket kit and new belts and any pulleys you might need.... There are sites out there that sell master rebuild kits and stuff.... Get new head studs, those are a must.

We would need to know which engine you are getting, and more details about what happened to the previous engine to help you a little better....

If it's a "naked" block and not an assembled short block then you're also going to need to get new bearings and related components, plus piston rings and all that fun stuff...

 

Heads are coming with the engine. along with the pulleys. It wont have the plenum on it so I'm having to use my old one which I need to clean. so maybe the plate for that. shouldn't need the valve cover gaskets as it should be coming with those as well already on the engine.

http://accurateengines.com/engines/47-engine/

this is the company I bought it from.

 

you won't need much other than gaskets and belts....and spark plugs...

Make sure you flush all of the coolant and oil after the first 500 miles......

and by flush I mean flush fresh oil through the block and get all the extremely fine metal particles out, and run tons of water followed by HOAT coolant (at least two bottles) through the whole system. (flush water in both directions)

That will make sure all of the contaminates from the remanufacturing process are removed from the system... some people think its over-kill but it really does help.

I usually do that at 500 Miles and then simply change the oil again at 1000 miles.

That's my break-in method, and it seems to work out pretty well.

 

Yeah I usually change after 500 miles then run 3000 miles after the second oil change I usually swap to synthetic

 

I like to run 500 on break-in oil.... another 500 on break-in oil and then 1000 on synthetic [after a synthetic flush so all the break-in oil gets out], and then change one last time to synthetic after 3000 miles, plus an oil filter at each change.

 

My engine came with all the needed gaskets. All I purchased was a new waterpump and thermostat. I also obviously bought oil/filter etc, but no gaskets were needed. The engine was a Mopar Factory replacement though and others may be different.

 

yeah I'd buy new oil pump, water pump and thermostat if there was any kind of bearing or piston/cylinder wall failure on your previous engine....

 

It comes with the oil pump I believe. I think I just need the basics. Oil, filters, water pump, and thermostat

 

I'm pretty sure if you called that company you bought it from, they can probably give you a very detailed list of what you will need, as well as what you'll need to keep from your previous motor (if anything).

Make sure you keep your injectors and you label each cylinder, b/c they are flowrate tested and installed on each cylinder based on their result... so you want to carry that over. (also keep your fuel rails and all lines in place.

You're also likely going to need to have the A/C serviced if you have to disconnect any of the A/C lines, so be ready for that.