I'm not mechanically inclined, so I'll be paying someone to do the job.

So I guess there are a few issues here.

If I want to get the Trans Tune out...flush and change fluid and filter?

Also, Eric I'm not sure I understand what you are saying "In certain gears that solenoid should he"...can you please clarify for me?

Also if the code means "internal transmission faults exist" doesn't that mean that I'm at the rebuild stage...that's what I was told. I was lead to believe that if the P0 846 means any of those other options, there is a fix, but if it means "internal transmission faults exist" then I'm rebuilding.

 

What's the best way to diagnose?

Right now I have an appointment at Dodge for them to use the Crystler Scan Tool and let me know if there are any secondary codes that a generic scan tool wouldn't pick up, thus hoping to find out what needs to be replaced.

 

A solenoid is a simple electrical switch. The switch is either open or closed. Depending on the gear the trans is in the the solenoid is either open or closed. The computer knows the solenoid should be open or closed depending on which gear the trans is in. When it detects the solenoid is open when it should be close (or vise versa) it throws that code.

I'd bet that solenoid is bad, and I'm sure the dealer will want to replace it with that code.
A p0700 is a generic fault code. Saying that something is right with the trans.
A p0846 is the pressure sensor reading open or closed when I shouldn't be. I wouldn't be looking at a rebuild yet haha.

 

That would be great news!

The local repair shop was pretty sure it wasn't an electrical issue because they reset the computer and the check engine light didn't go right back on. They told me that because they didn't fix anything electrical, if it were an electrical issue the check engine light should have gone back on immediately.

Is that solenoid internal? (Probably a dumb question...but I'm not mechanically inclined).

I'm asking about if it is internal because I'm still trying to figure out what to do with the Trans Tune. Lots of guys say "Don't use it"...unfortunately I didn't know that before and the local repair shop thought it was a good idea (and for the most part I trust them, but they were possibly wrong).

It has 223,000 km on it and I'm sure has never had an ATF fluid change. I hear horror stories about ATF fluid changes on high millage vehicles that have never had one.

If the solenoid is internal, then I guess my mind is made up for me. I then would get the ATF changed, and that should take out most of the Trans Tune...and then hopefully the ATF change doesn't blow the tranny.

 

Only about 1/3 of the ATF lives in the pan, another 1/3 inside the torque converter, and the rest inside the housing and cooler etc... A full fluid flush normally breaks up crap inside the trans, and yes it can make its way into the valve body and due harm. Unless regular flushing has been done all its life, I wouldn't risk a full flush. That being said dropping the pan and removing some of the old fluid is a good idea. Dropping the pan will also let you see what's built up on the magnet and see if the trans is tearing itself up internally or not. If the trans isn't doing anything bad, I doubt it's a mechanic failure.

 

So I talked to a friend and he said, "Start the truck up, let it warm up and see if the transmission fluid smells burnt."

So I let it idle for 20 minutes, checked the dipstick and it doesn't smell burnt.

As for color, well it isn't red, but it isn't brown. I'd call it a burgundy (more red than brown).

So I'm thinking that is a sign of transmission fluid that is used...but not "cooked".

I am pretty sure that the transmission fluid has never been flushed - so you'd steer away from that. BUT, how about a full fluid drain and change?

Having said that, I did pull up the service manual:

48,000 & 96,000km
Drain and refill automatic transmission fluid and
change main sump filter (45RFE/545RFE only).

144,000km Drain and refill automatic transmission fluid and
change main sump and spin-on cooler return filter
(if equipped) [45RFE/545RFE only].

I bought the vehicle with 160,000 (so I don't know what's happened before)

192,000
Drain and refill automatic transmission fluid
and change main sump filter (45RFE/545RFE
only).

So because the service manual doesn't call for a flush and because I don't know if a flush has ever been done...don't think I'll do a flush. ODD THOUGH that the Dodge Dealership said I should flush it.

Also, what's "main sump and spin-on cooler return filter
(if equipped) [45RFE/545RFE only]"

Thanks for all the info! I'm really trying to make the right decisions here.

 

There are machines that will let the pump "replace" the fluid. It will let the trans pump out the old dirty fluid, and suck in new unused fluid. Those types of flushing machines aren't nearly as bad as the old school way of forced flushing. Some mechanics will recommend that.
As far as fluid color and smell, it's not so obvious. If your fluid smells burnt, things got really hot.

 

The main sump is the trans oil pan. If you drop the pan you will see a filter that is replaceable. From your trans you will have cooler lines running to a trans oil cooler (usually your radiator has a trans cooler built into it) and somewhere (on the feed line or return line, cannot remember which) will have a removable (just like an engine oil filter) spin on filter plumbed into it. It's an extra, more easily servicable filter for your trans.

 

If it was me and my truck, I would drop the pan, replace the governor solenoid, and also the filter in the pan. While I was at it, I'd replace the spin on cooler filter and top the trans off with fresh fluid and see what happens. And old trans line that could very well have a bad sensor.

 

Thanks again for all the responses!

Just so that I know ahead of time (and I've been watching youtube videos) is any amount of metal shavings on the magnet acceptable?