Does anyone know the length, diameter, and thread type-(course, fine) of the bolts used for the rear shocks? I believe they are a metric 10.9 strength bolt but I don't know anymore details. Can't find that specific info in the service manual. 2008 Ram 1500 5.7 Hemi.

Thanks!

 

Lol, I just put shocks on my '05 in November and I couldn't tell you the size or class. Why not just re-use the old ones? With the right sockets, extensions, penetrating oil, muscle, and patience it can be done.
Then too, the local dealer would be more than happy to sell you a set I'm sure.

 

Hi Dave,

I fully expect to deal with sockets, penetrating oil, muscle and patience to get the old bolts off. I guess I am just thinking nice new non-rusted bolts and nuts with some anti-seize on them might make reinstalling the shocks somewhat in the neighborhood of semi-pleasurable and god willing if the truck lasts long enough-maybe easier next time this needs to be done.

Thanks, and I'll keep digging.

 

I will self-answer this question. I went to remove one of the shock bolts with the intent to just take some quick measurements in case I wanted to buy new bolts at Fastenal or similar instead of paying inflated dealer prices for "official" bolts. My plan was to change out the rear shocks this weekend. The nut & bolt came off with such little headache, that I just went ahead and changed out both rear shocks using the same bolts. Other than a little rust which I removed most of from the threads with some WD-40 and a wire brush, all 4 bolts and nuts were in good condition. I had applied some Kroil to the bolts and nuts and threads a few days ago so perhaps that helped with the ease of removal. I did use some anti-seize compound on the threads and the underside of the bolt head and the nut when reinstalling.

But just in case anyone for whatever reason decides to buy new bolts & nuts for the job and you don't have one removed for reference hopefully this picture and info will be helpful.

Bolt Head Marking-10.9
Total length from top of bolt head to end of threads-about 90 mm
Bolt/Nut Head Socket Size-21mm
Width (diameter) of bolt threaded area-14mm
Length of non threaded area under bolt head-20 mm
The nut has a smooth underside and is not serrated.
Torque both top and bottom to 100 ft-lbs according to service manual.

 

Good that you got it!
Just An FYI............
Notice the top of the nut in your picture has a triangular shape on it. This is a mechanical locking feature that is pressed on the nut after it's threaded. This nut will have a specific torque specification during install along with a removal specification. A free spinning nut will not have this or other styles of locking features.

 

Actually, if you buy a set of tabbed washers long enough to grab the frame rail you wont need to fight and struggle to remove those crap bolts on the s-it parts dodge used on its vehicles. Why on a vehicle meant to go off-road you would use the crappiest form of steel bolts that will absolutely rust and both become welded in place and prevent you from replacing the garbage they call parts on your rusted piece of shi1.

 

Anyone ignorant enough to suggest reusing rusted bolts after fighting and forcing to remove them, is an imbecile. For you immediately said it in your first statement penetration oil heat time muscle and forced to remove those crap bolts. Anyone obscene enough to suggest reusing rusted bolts after fighting and forcing to remove them, is an imbecile. Which means your stainless steel sockets that are harder material than the rusted bolts you’re trying to remove. That will result in a sheering effect. Meaning the next time you will need to change these crappy bolts you may not be able to remove them. So In making decisions on bolts that are already almost impossible to remove. Replace them with stuff that won’t rust like stainless steel or an alloy with zinc mixed in. Don’t use 8.9 hardened bolts on a rear suspension system with a vehicle meant to go off road. Be smart use 10.9 zinc coated hardened bolts. And if you purchased the cheap shock absorbers for you were unwilling or unable to pay for the seven times the price rough country that will fail all the same. Then spend an additional $20 per shock go up to your local auto parts store, and purchase a universal CV joint rubber dust boot, Cut the end to the size diameter of your shock slide it on your shock absorber prior to install where the open joint separates the two parts of your shock absorber and use zip ties not band clamps to hold it in place. This along with a thick grease under the rubber boot between the two shocks will allow your shocks to operate smoothly and prevent water that will be guaranteed to splash up Into the gap between the two parts of your shock absorber onto the internal components that are not painted and protected from rust thus allowing it to rust your part out. And when removing the original crab shock take a sawsall And cut the shock just above where the bolt is at the top and bottom leaving just a part of the shock holding the bolt. Then cut straight through the shock and center of the bolt you can then remove each side of the bolt individually Without having to fight or damage anything. Simply replace with new bolts and a new shock absorber after completing the aforementioned information

 

where mine is quite valuable. These steps will take a two-hour aggravating job and turn it into a 30 minute easy job
Instead of going to Fastenal which is a distributor not easily found locally to most peoples locations. You could also do what I do, travel up to your local ace hardware store. Look for the drawers in the back of the store. Follow the instructions on the front of the drawers and you should be able to locate the bolts you need, 10.9 hardened to be exact

 

Funny that six years after it was solved, you show up with the magic fix across three posts in a row LMAO.