Changing Fluids in my 2004 1500 4x4
#1
Changing Fluids in my 2004 1500 4x4
My 04 is just hitting 60K miles and I want to change the fluids in the running gear. I read the owners manual but there are no capacities listed, how much fluid do the differentials and the transfer case take ? My manual says the transfer case takes ATF-4 but my parts guy says it uses transfer case lube or gear oil...who is right ? Also, front axle..parts guy says syn 75W 140 or owners manual says syn 75W 90 ? Rear axle...owners manual says syn 75W-140..... parts guy says 75W-90. So what is the answer..or is there one.
I have looked yet but do the diffs have drain plugs, and if they don't do the rear covers have gaskets or just silicone to seal them.....and finally, is there a transmission filter that needs to be replaced along with the fluid ??
Lots of questions, don'r feel obligated to answer them all, any help is appreciated
Chris
I have looked yet but do the diffs have drain plugs, and if they don't do the rear covers have gaskets or just silicone to seal them.....and finally, is there a transmission filter that needs to be replaced along with the fluid ??
Lots of questions, don'r feel obligated to answer them all, any help is appreciated
Chris
#2
#4
I keep seeing different stories on that...... some folks don't appear to have a problem, others do, and their problems end when they put in the additive.......
#5
OR just buy diff oil with no additive and add the recommended amount.
Thats what I was taught.
#6
My 04 is just hitting 60K miles and I want to change the fluids in the running gear. I read the owners manual but there are no capacities listed, how much fluid do the differentials and the transfer case take ? My manual says the transfer case takes ATF-4 but my parts guy says it uses transfer case lube or gear oil...who is right ? Also, front axle..parts guy says syn 75W 140 or owners manual says syn 75W 90 ? Rear axle...owners manual says syn 75W-140..... parts guy says 75W-90. So what is the answer..or is there one.
I have looked yet but do the diffs have drain plugs, and if they don't do the rear covers have gaskets or just silicone to seal them.....and finally, is there a transmission filter that needs to be replaced along with the fluid ??
Lots of questions, don'r feel obligated to answer them all, any help is appreciated
Chris
I have looked yet but do the diffs have drain plugs, and if they don't do the rear covers have gaskets or just silicone to seal them.....and finally, is there a transmission filter that needs to be replaced along with the fluid ??
Lots of questions, don'r feel obligated to answer them all, any help is appreciated
Chris
front diff just under 2 quarts 75w90
rear diff just under 3 quarts 75w140 + additive if posi
no drains on both diffs. use silicon to reseal.
transfer case just under 2 quarts ATF4.. Make sure you can remove top fill plug before removing bottom drain plug
power steering flush 3 quarts ATF4
Transmission up to 9 quarts ATF4 make sure to buy the right filter kit. These transmissions have 2 filters and the pan filter is different on 4x2 and 4x4
Coolant I use Valvoline Zerex G-O5 I buy the concentrate and mix 50/50 with distilled water
Wouldn't hurt to flush some new brake fluid through as well...... Dot 3 .... 2or 3 quarts
#7
Actually just getting lined up to go through the systems on my 2004 Ram 1500, 205,000 km. Here is the info that I use previously, and next, and go by.
Front diff. 75W90 synthetic. 1.6 - 1.8 litres
Rear diff. 75W140 synthetic PLUS 120ml of dodge LS additive. 2.1 litres
Transfer Case. ATF+4, 1.6 - 1.8 litres.
Front diff. 75W90 synthetic. 1.6 - 1.8 litres
Rear diff. 75W140 synthetic PLUS 120ml of dodge LS additive. 2.1 litres
There are no gaskets (at least not on mine from new and I do not use them) and no drain plugs on either of the diffs. Remove the covers to drain, clean the magnets, clean the covers, spray out and clean gears and cover surfaces with brake cleaner, apply a bead of black RTV sealant to the cover encircling all holes, install covers but only finger tighten the bolts. Wait 1 to 2 hours. Tighten the bolts. Wait over night. Fill the diffs.
Transfer Case. ATF+4, 1.6 - 1.8 litres.
Use ATF, do not use gear oil. Here is the reason. While these Cases (NP243D) do not have clutches like the 246, and are just gears and chain where gear oil would work very well ... the issue is the Tcase bolts onto the back an automatic transmission. There are oil seals between them, but everyone knows seals leak, even just a teeny smidgen. Anyone who has pulled a Tcase also knows that some oil is always found in the extension mating piece between the Tcase and the transmission. That means any oil in there is passing through the seals between the Tcase and the transmission. So, if you put gear oil in the Tcase and that gear oil gets into the extension cavity, then over time you will have some gear oil showing up in your transmission oil. Gear oil in an automatic is BAAAD! Unless you want to shorten the useful life of the transmission, always run the same fluid in the Tcase as what is in the transmission.
Therefore! .... if you have an automatic transmission, put ATF+4 in the Tcase. Only if you have a manual transmission would you consider to put gear oil in the Tcase.
AutomaticTransmission. ATF+4, 6 litres for dropping pan, 16 litres for a total run-through purge.
There are TWO filters in the 454RFE transmission. Get at both by dropping the pan. One is a flat type pan pickup filter. The other is a screw on, like engine oil filter. You can return the pan with a rubber gasket or just RTV using same method as the diffs. Neither is better than the other as long as it doesn't leak.
Coolant: 18 liters.
If you are doing a drain and refill (not flushing) then use Mopar HOAT compatible coolant ... unless you have put something else in at a previous service, then use that.
If you are doing a drain and flush then refill, you can put almost any coolant. Mine has been running just fine with Prestone in it since 2010. I flush and change out at 4 years.
Coolant is a mix of glycols and additives. The glycol and the additives are organics that have a shelf-life where over time they naturally break down, and they break down into acids. There are acid buffers, which they call corrosion inhibitors on the jug, which neutralize the acids. "Long life" coolant just has more buffers in it. Over time those buffers get depleted and then the acids level creeps up to where the fluid begins to attack cooling system components and leads to leaks. That shelf-life is 5 years on glycols. So not matter what the jug or the marketing says, change your coolant out at the 3 to 4 year mark unless you like mysterious coolant leaks on the driveway, milky oil in the drain pan, squeaky water pumps, or dripping radiators. My point being it is not so much as the coolant type, aka proprietary names, as the importance of the time period you allow it to get more and more acidic before changing it out. Change at 4 years or less. Anyone who has read this now understands the fallacy of any jug that says ###,000 miles life on it, I hope.
The stage that I am at right now is deciding on which lubricants to put in this time. Last change out of the trans and tcase of ATF+4 was using Mobil Super ATF+4. For the diffs, I use any decent quality big name brand synthetic gear oil that is on sale at the time.
I too at one time was sucked in by marketing and tried that purple stuff in this and other applications. Imho, the stuff is just crap. Makes a mess to clean up, you cannot tell from color what condition the oil is in, doesn't run any better or extend life any more than other good oils, and it is unnecessarily costly. There hasn't been any purple stuff in or around any of my machines for years. Don't waste your money on it. If you like purple, go buy purple flowers for your girl. I guarantee you will get a much better ride quality improvement out of the flowers, than by putting purple money in your truck.
Hope that helps!
Therefore! .... if you have an automatic transmission, put ATF+4 in the Tcase. Only if you have a manual transmission would you consider to put gear oil in the Tcase.
AutomaticTransmission. ATF+4, 6 litres for dropping pan, 16 litres for a total run-through purge.
There are TWO filters in the 454RFE transmission. Get at both by dropping the pan. One is a flat type pan pickup filter. The other is a screw on, like engine oil filter. You can return the pan with a rubber gasket or just RTV using same method as the diffs. Neither is better than the other as long as it doesn't leak.
Coolant: 18 liters.
If you are doing a drain and refill (not flushing) then use Mopar HOAT compatible coolant ... unless you have put something else in at a previous service, then use that.
If you are doing a drain and flush then refill, you can put almost any coolant. Mine has been running just fine with Prestone in it since 2010. I flush and change out at 4 years.
Coolant is a mix of glycols and additives. The glycol and the additives are organics that have a shelf-life where over time they naturally break down, and they break down into acids. There are acid buffers, which they call corrosion inhibitors on the jug, which neutralize the acids. "Long life" coolant just has more buffers in it. Over time those buffers get depleted and then the acids level creeps up to where the fluid begins to attack cooling system components and leads to leaks. That shelf-life is 5 years on glycols. So not matter what the jug or the marketing says, change your coolant out at the 3 to 4 year mark unless you like mysterious coolant leaks on the driveway, milky oil in the drain pan, squeaky water pumps, or dripping radiators. My point being it is not so much as the coolant type, aka proprietary names, as the importance of the time period you allow it to get more and more acidic before changing it out. Change at 4 years or less. Anyone who has read this now understands the fallacy of any jug that says ###,000 miles life on it, I hope.
The stage that I am at right now is deciding on which lubricants to put in this time. Last change out of the trans and tcase of ATF+4 was using Mobil Super ATF+4. For the diffs, I use any decent quality big name brand synthetic gear oil that is on sale at the time.
I too at one time was sucked in by marketing and tried that purple stuff in this and other applications. Imho, the stuff is just crap. Makes a mess to clean up, you cannot tell from color what condition the oil is in, doesn't run any better or extend life any more than other good oils, and it is unnecessarily costly. There hasn't been any purple stuff in or around any of my machines for years. Don't waste your money on it. If you like purple, go buy purple flowers for your girl. I guarantee you will get a much better ride quality improvement out of the flowers, than by putting purple money in your truck.
Hope that helps!
Last edited by FaceDeAce; 12-30-2017 at 09:34 PM.
Trending Topics
#8