I've had to go down to single circuit cuts on individual TIPM connectors before to find draws. That whole TIPM dynamic with the drivers and such throws a massive clusterfu#$ into the diag process when chasing draws. Then there's the issue of the cluster being a power source for a bunch of things.

If an internal relay on the TIPM ckt board is sticking, a simple battery disconnect for about an hour might make the issue go away, even a hard slap of a few on the TIPM might stop it. You say you're having wiper issues? Unplug the wiper assembly and see if the draw leaves.

The main sources of a draw on these, (I own a 2007 BTW) has been ignition switches, blower motors, seat belt switches in the back seat (if you have megacab with back seat shoulder belts) and Internal TIPM. I doubt 800mA is a lighting. Could be a door lock.

Question though... Does the draw dip down below 800 while you're watching then go back up to 800 and settle there? I'm assuming you know about BUS SLEEP and all that. Keep in mind that you may need to disconnect and reconnect your ammeter after you pull a group of fuses to "restart" the BUS sleep order. Unplugging a single module to isolate for a draw can freeze the SLEEP process in it's tracks.

 

Great info! Thanks.

 

Interesting that I have some of these same issues.
My ignition switch is very loose. I can take the key out in almost any position.
I took the back seats out to fit more tool boxes there.
I also installed an after-market electric door lock system.

 

Aftermarket is always a good place to start. I've done enough draws that many times I can look at the amount of draw and usually parachute right in lol.