Can't get truck to start...
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Joined: Sep 2018
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Can't get truck to start...
2002 Dodge Ram 1500 SLT 4x4 longbed 4.7L 130,000 miles
Background: last 6 mo, the idle would "intermittently" fluctuate from 400-100 rpms. Not sure if this has anything to do with current issue. Truck has always started without hesitation.
Other day the truck would crank but not fire. It caught finally and came to life. Then when left to idle it would die out. But crank back up. The next day I had issues with it again, we were heading to our 18yr olds beach birthday party. The truck finally started and I had issues driving there, that I would have to keep my foot on the gas so it didn’t die out. a couple times during the ride I noticed the speedometer jump from 35 down to 30 and back. not sure if it was electrical or if the the truck was just trying to die out. At the end of the day, I ended up having to have it towed back home as it wouldn’t start.
Checked all fuses and swapped relays around to rule them out.
Checked the fuel rail and had no pressure and also the gas gauge was not responding in the on position. Thinking that it was the fuel pump, we replaced it and found out that there was no current getting to the pump or the sending unit.
Bench tested the old pump and it worked. We proceeded to hot wire the pump to the fuse box to energize the pump and got the fuel rail to pressurize, but the truck would still not start.
During all this we, a couple times, tried using starter fluid to get the truck to start, which it did on 2 occasions for about 2 seconds. Repeated attempts since then have failed to get the engine to fire.
All instrument gauges except for the gas gauge work fine and when checked for codes, nothing registered.
Decided a quick stab in the dark would be to replace both the camshaft AND crankcase positon sensors. – Nothing.
Any help in diagnosing this would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Scott
Background: last 6 mo, the idle would "intermittently" fluctuate from 400-100 rpms. Not sure if this has anything to do with current issue. Truck has always started without hesitation.
Other day the truck would crank but not fire. It caught finally and came to life. Then when left to idle it would die out. But crank back up. The next day I had issues with it again, we were heading to our 18yr olds beach birthday party. The truck finally started and I had issues driving there, that I would have to keep my foot on the gas so it didn’t die out. a couple times during the ride I noticed the speedometer jump from 35 down to 30 and back. not sure if it was electrical or if the the truck was just trying to die out. At the end of the day, I ended up having to have it towed back home as it wouldn’t start.
Checked all fuses and swapped relays around to rule them out.
Checked the fuel rail and had no pressure and also the gas gauge was not responding in the on position. Thinking that it was the fuel pump, we replaced it and found out that there was no current getting to the pump or the sending unit.
Bench tested the old pump and it worked. We proceeded to hot wire the pump to the fuse box to energize the pump and got the fuel rail to pressurize, but the truck would still not start.
During all this we, a couple times, tried using starter fluid to get the truck to start, which it did on 2 occasions for about 2 seconds. Repeated attempts since then have failed to get the engine to fire.
All instrument gauges except for the gas gauge work fine and when checked for codes, nothing registered.
Decided a quick stab in the dark would be to replace both the camshaft AND crankcase positon sensors. – Nothing.
Any help in diagnosing this would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Scott
Legend
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 8,098
Likes: 318
2002 Dodge Ram 1500 SLT 4x4 longbed 4.7L 130,000 miles
Background: last 6 mo, the idle would "intermittently" fluctuate from 400-100 rpms. Not sure if this has anything to do with current issue. Truck has always started without hesitation.
Other day the truck would crank but not fire. It caught finally and came to life. Then when left to idle it would die out. But crank back up. The next day I had issues with it again, we were heading to our 18yr olds beach birthday party. The truck finally started and I had issues driving there, that I would have to keep my foot on the gas so it didn’t die out. a couple times during the ride I noticed the speedometer jump from 35 down to 30 and back. not sure if it was electrical or if the the truck was just trying to die out. At the end of the day, I ended up having to have it towed back home as it wouldn’t start.
Checked all fuses and swapped relays around to rule them out.
Checked the fuel rail and had no pressure and also the gas gauge was not responding in the on position. Thinking that it was the fuel pump, we replaced it and found out that there was no current getting to the pump or the sending unit.
Bench tested the old pump and it worked. We proceeded to hot wire the pump to the fuse box to energize the pump and got the fuel rail to pressurize, but the truck would still not start.
During all this we, a couple times, tried using starter fluid to get the truck to start, which it did on 2 occasions for about 2 seconds. Repeated attempts since then have failed to get the engine to fire.
All instrument gauges except for the gas gauge work fine and when checked for codes, nothing registered.
Decided a quick stab in the dark would be to replace both the camshaft AND crankcase positon sensors. – Nothing.
Any help in diagnosing this would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Scott
Background: last 6 mo, the idle would "intermittently" fluctuate from 400-100 rpms. Not sure if this has anything to do with current issue. Truck has always started without hesitation.
Other day the truck would crank but not fire. It caught finally and came to life. Then when left to idle it would die out. But crank back up. The next day I had issues with it again, we were heading to our 18yr olds beach birthday party. The truck finally started and I had issues driving there, that I would have to keep my foot on the gas so it didn’t die out. a couple times during the ride I noticed the speedometer jump from 35 down to 30 and back. not sure if it was electrical or if the the truck was just trying to die out. At the end of the day, I ended up having to have it towed back home as it wouldn’t start.
Checked all fuses and swapped relays around to rule them out.
Checked the fuel rail and had no pressure and also the gas gauge was not responding in the on position. Thinking that it was the fuel pump, we replaced it and found out that there was no current getting to the pump or the sending unit.
Bench tested the old pump and it worked. We proceeded to hot wire the pump to the fuse box to energize the pump and got the fuel rail to pressurize, but the truck would still not start.
During all this we, a couple times, tried using starter fluid to get the truck to start, which it did on 2 occasions for about 2 seconds. Repeated attempts since then have failed to get the engine to fire.
All instrument gauges except for the gas gauge work fine and when checked for codes, nothing registered.
Decided a quick stab in the dark would be to replace both the camshaft AND crankcase positon sensors. – Nothing.
Any help in diagnosing this would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Scott
Captain
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 725
Likes: 14
Why?? Would you rather it be a $1200 TIPM?? Or a bad PCM?? A fuel pump is about $150 and not that difficult to replace. Why don’t you test the voltage already?? You’re asking a million questions, but as far as I can tell have done nothing! You did say you have no pressure at the rail, have you done any other diagnoses at all? Bring it to a dealer if you want a definitive answer, because it seems you want to believe it’s anything but the most obvious!
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 24
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From: Northern VA
Why?? Would you rather it be a $1200 TIPM?? Or a bad PCM?? A fuel pump is about $150 and not that difficult to replace. Why don’t you test the voltage already?? You’re asking a million questions, but as far as I can tell have done nothing! You did say you have no pressure at the rail, have you done any other diagnoses at all? Bring it to a dealer if you want a definitive answer, because it seems you want to believe it’s anything but the most obvious!
Maybe because having someone rebuild my TIPM would cost 300-400 dollars?
Maybe because replacing a fuel pump is a lot harder than swapping out a TIPM, or some other random sensor or switch that might cause the problem?
Why didn't I test the voltage already? Maybe because I just figured out where to check it and I haven't gotten to it?
My 'million questions' boils down to what is the best way to see if it is the pump or the TIPM, which only yesterday did someone point me in the right direction.
Answer your questions?
Captain
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 725
Likes: 14
There is no reliable rebuild of a TIPM. Only way to go is new. I paid a shop last year $400 for replacing my fuel pump, including the pump. You may not like me or my attitude towards you, but I will bet you it’s your pump. Do everyone a favor, and make sure you post your outcome, as most new posters only take advise and never return again.
Captain
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 725
Likes: 14
BTW this last one was the third pump including the original. I kinda know the symptoms. First one I replaced myself, and yes, it’s a PITA, after going cheap on the part, it failed within 2 years. Last time, I wanted no part in doing it myself. Found an honest shop, and was out the door for $400. Life warranty on the pump.