Thanks for the more detailed info, Thump. Where did you get all the info as I've been searching for a reputable place to get this info and have had a hard time finding the info you provided. Everyone know's about Bob the oil guy and other sites, but the info you provided was what I've been looking for. Looks like I better start to upgrade the filter next time

 

The filter specs are form Fram's web site and the pics are from a filter study. The ones that I posted in the general forums are from the filter manufacturers council web stie. I put alot of time into studying stats and info on such things as its what I do for a living. Believe it or not 2 good filters for you to look at as an upgrade are wix and super tech from walmart they are both very well constructed filters. There have been quite a few instances of fram filters having thier center tubes collapse.

 

Chrysler spec oil + Chrysler filter + 70/7 warranty = Chrysler's problem.

 

Does chrysler even have a "spec rating' on thier filter or does anyone even know what the actual specs are on thier Mopar filter?

 

I've used exclusively Mopar filters in the Mopars for 40 years without a single problem.

They may not be a "Name," brand as such, but they've always worked quite well for me... lots of vehicles and some over 100k. My father always used them in my mother's '58 NY convert (392 hemi) and finally rebuilt the engine at 135K miles, and that's with 1957 metalurgy, factory machining, and oils of the time. Obviously, a different type filter (cartridge vs canister), but... you probably get the point.

In fact, I've never known a person with a failed Mopar (though I'm sure they exist and someone here may chime in), but I know of failed aftermarket for about any brand one cares to mention. Unfortunately, I never kept data.

Btw, on my hipo toys I use dual System 1's (with preluber pumps to avoid dry startups, especially since they may set a while between usages), easy to clean and monitor what's in the filter, if anything.

All the best.

 

Thanks for the info there, Avanti. How do the preluber pumps work? Are they electric? I have no idea, hoping you could 'educate' me.

 

I posted this in the "oil recommendation" thread, but perhaps it would be better to paste it here with all the analysis being offered.

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There are countless "what oil should I use" threads, but I still have some questions for anyone who might know. From what I understand, here are the oil recommendations for each:

'02 Hemi: 5w30 (no MDS)
'03 Hemi: 5w30 (no MDS)
'04 Hemi: 5w30 (no MDS)
'05 Hemi: 5w20 (no MDS)
'06 Hemi: 5w20 (MDS standard)

There is a service bulletin that states that 5w20 oil is required for the MDS to run properly on the '06 Hemi. My question is, why is 5w20 recommended for the '05 Hemi? What changes were made to the powertrain design of an '05 to require a thinner oil? Did the engineers decide that 5w20 is a better oil for Hemi regardless of whether it is MDS-equipped or not, and does it really matter if an '05 Hemi uses 5w30 or 5w20?

 

Ok, let me say something as to why the 10w40 for the first 15k miles. "In the old days" the reason that dino oil was run prior to synthetic was to help seat the rings and valves and such. When racing engines were built, they usually included chrome moly rings (hard) and a chromed oil ring to scrape the oil down off the cylinder walls. Because of this, many people that ran synthetic from the start had large oil consumption problems as well as low compression. 12.5 or 13:1 compression shows up fast. So, having said this, I feel it was good to help everything seat in right. Now I know they probably spin the new engines on break-in machines, but it never hurts to seat them while driving. Now that I have the initial break-in part of the concept done, theoretically, if the oil is changed at proper intervals, and all the other apprpriate maint is done, the engine mechanicals should easily outlast the chasis.
As far as the 5w20, the thinner oil leads to better gas mileage without going to an exotic dry sump sytem similar to drag car engines or nascar engines. The crankshaft turning through the oil causes parasitic drag. Also with the current day engine technology, the engines run much cleaner not reducing the lubricating qualities of the oil, and the lighter oil is better. I'm curious to see how me engine and gas mileage are after the oil gets changed this weekend

 

Gone Fishin, you are a used car buyers worst nightmare. I hope you practice full disclosure of your theory when selling a vehicle.

 

I'd rather buy Gone Fishin's truck than someone that neglected oil changes but used the *recommended* oil.