Oil pressure
Have you hooked it back up to factory gauge ? And does check engine light still come on ? If all this is still going on I would change pump an pick up tube over engine replacement for now also sludge in oil clogs the pickup tube screen usually . And how high does pressure climb when say at 3000 rpm ?
Can't see the mechanical guage while driving but at cold start up it was at like 40 psi and even when warm, slight throttle would jump it up instantly past 10 psi.
Since its not zero is probably why you haven't spun a bearing or something else yet , I would change oil pump an filler tube at this point and see what happens as its still a far cry from engine replacement price , especially if you out source the work and mostly should solve the oil pressure issue as I think it should be close to 20psi at idle
Since its not zero is probably why you haven't spun a bearing or something else yet , I would change oil pump an filler tube at this point and see what happens as its still a far cry from engine replacement price , especially if you out source the work and mostly should solve the oil pressure issue as I think it should be close to 20psi at idle
You shouldn't have low pressure, I'd pull the pan and see what is in there. Swap the pump as well. Someone told last week there was a problem with an oil path obstruction on the hemi engines with sludge, and usually shows up if the oil wasn't changed frequently. Guy that told me that had his throw a rod at 100k, he didn't drive it much and left the oil in it until miles - not time - was met. Had it since new, so he knew its history.
I think it'd be cheaper to pull what you have apart and have the block hot tanked, and rebuilt while its still running - than it would be with a thrown rod. I'm saying deal with it early to save some $.
I think it'd be cheaper to pull what you have apart and have the block hot tanked, and rebuilt while its still running - than it would be with a thrown rod. I'm saying deal with it early to save some $.










