Yes, I have the manul for it now. As I suspected, the 05 and 06 TIPM are very different.

On the diagrams, I don't see any Fuse for the power to the Window switch, although there is a Fuse 25 that controls power to the Window motor.

 

I think there is a circuit breaker for the main power feed, but, not 100% on that.....

 

I'm still messing around with this. I have power and ground at the window switch, the switch tests good per the manual, the switch is new, and when I jumper power and ground to pins 5 and 12 on C1 of the connector, the window does not move. I have power at Fuse 25. Next I'm going to run battery power directly to the window motor pins 5 and 12 and see if the window moves. If it does, then there must be a high resistance in the Pink/Yellow or ground wires that run to the switch or the TIPM is cutting power to the windows due to excessive current draw/or a TIPM malfunction.

I believe that I have the correct manual for the truck, but it appears that Chrslyer was less than competant in updating the manuals for the 2006 model year. Below are some excerpts. I have looked near the parking brake and there is no circuit breaker there. My understanding of the term junction block is that that function is now served by the TIPM and should have been removed from the manual years ago. My conclusion is that the TIPM has a solid state circuit breaker function built into it. The wiring diagrams don't show any circuit breakers.

The power window system receives battery feed through a fuse in the Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM) and a circuit breaker located in the instrument panel wiring harness near the park brake pedal, only when the ignition switch is
in the RUN or ACCESSORY position.

The Light-Emitting Diode (LED) illumination lamps for all of the power window and lock switch and bezel unit switch paddles receive battery current through the power window circuit breaker in the junction block.

The Light-Emitting Diode (LED) illumination lamps for all of the Driver Door Module (DDM) power window, power lock, and power mirror switches receive battery current through the power window circuit breaker in the Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM).

The Light-Emitting Diode (LED) in the power mirror switch is connected to battery current through the power window circuit breaker in the TIPM on a fused ignition switch output (run-acc) circuit so that the switch directional buttons will be illuminated whenever the ignition switch is in the On or Accessory positions.

The Light-Emitting Diode (LED) in the power lock switch is connected to battery current through the power window circuit breaker in the Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM) on a fused ignition switch output (run-acc) circuit. The switch will be illuminated whenever the ignition switch is in the On or Accessory positions.

 

People have complained about the wires running through the flexible rubber conduit between the door and cab have broken under the repeated stress of movement (open/close door cycles). So I'd check that first if you think wiring is the culprit.

That MODIS gives you all kinds of info! I'm thinking I gotta have one

 

I checked those wires in 3 of the 4 doors and it looked good, but I am getting a voltage key off (.5v) and key on (4.97v) on a window line that should not have voltage. I took the pin out of the connector hoping that was it, but no joy..

It's pretty handy. I was able to get mine with software upto 2010 for Japanese and American vehicles, but it doesn't have the German software. I wanted the German because I race a friend's E30, but it's not critical and a lot of the wiring gets ripped out on a race car anyway.

 

The MODIS can clear the module codes, but Dodge has installed a trap in the code:
Each of these DTC's, including ..., can be cleared from the TIPM module memory but this can only be done a maximum of 5 times. The TIPM module will be rendered inoperative on the sixth attempt and must be replaced.

 

I checked the last door and the wires look good. I also ran battery and ground directly to the driver window and it works, so the current going to the switch must be insufficient or the TIPM is cutting power to the windows. The passenger window is partially rolled down and it turns out that that the pass window down line is the one with the stray voltage that shouldn't be there. I was about to connect power directly to the battery to it to roll the window back up, but I connected the ground wire first and after a few seconds the doors started to actuate weakly, then a few seconds more they actuate again. So somewhere in the harness, I think that the passenger window wire is making contact with the power lock wire or possibly that a ground is broken and the power is backfeeding through one of the wires. I'll need to experiment more later. I suspect the TIPM is cutting power at this point.

 

For those who value closure, a remaufactured TIPM from Dorman resolved all of the symptoms. The HVAC works, the airbag light went out, and all of the windows now work. The windows switches also now light up. The cost of the module was $390 from Summit. It's trivial to install, but the poor quality connectors used on Chrysler/Dodge vehicles are always something to be really careful with. The only issue the I have with the Dorman part is that now the headlights illuminate when the unlock button is pressed on the key fob. Apparently, that can be reconfigured at the dealer. I don't think that the SnapOn Modis can change the setting.