Need some advanced advice...because I'm out of good answers.... so you smarty pants put on your thinking caps...

So here's the scenario. I have a 2005 Dodge Ram 2500 with the 5.9 Diesel. I just did a big brake replacement and changed all 4 calipers, pads and rotors. The braking system was working perfectly prior to the change...I just had one back rotor start sticking so I was replacing the whole shebang. Made the hardware swaps, did a manual pedal pump bleeding process...never got a firm pedal back. At no time did the master cylinder get low in the reservior to introduce air that way. Did that once or so more...still soft pedal down to like 75%. Did a vacuum bleed 3x, still no firm pedal. Limped it home slowly from my buddies shop...brakes will hold at stop and will slow down...its just that the pedal is down like 75-80% to the floor as it feels like it finally kicks in like "old non-assisted" brakes (if anybody remembers those).

My buddy brought over a service tool from the shop to see if there was an ABS brake bleed function (which apparently there is not) on this truck. He also brought over his power bleeder/flusher. We did a rotation of all four corner id say 4 more times. Still soft pedal. Interesting part is petal is reasonably firm when truck is off...but really softens up with the addition of the hydraulic brake booster. I did a trial drive to see if I could get the ABS module to kick in and activate the ABS braking...but could not. I got one wheel to pulse is all.

At this point, I've only come up with two answers for the problem....and I'm hoping someone can point me to a solid solution to fix it.

Possible problem #1) Somehow, air got into the ABS module - or particulates or junk from the old brake fluid and is keeping a valve open from the junk or air in the ABS module is making the pedal squishy until the bottom.

Possible problem #2) ....somehow, the pressure from the accumulator was released (i'm not SUPER familiar with how these work in the system) when I was manually pumping the brakes somehow that released something....

I believe I have the kelsey-hayes 4wal module...the module has the kelsey hayes name on the top, and my truck is 4wd with 4wheel ABS.

At this point, I'm not sure what the problem is. It has been bled at all 4 wheels and there is no air in those lines...which is why my focus is on the ABS module having air or junk or some other issue that's not on my radar at all.


THANKS so much for the input and advice...much appreciated and needed...it's my only truck and I need to get this figured out ASAP. I do have access to a professional scan / function tool through my buddy.

Cheers

 

When you recharged / bled the brakes after the repairs. Which wheel did you do first, second, third, fourth. ... ? What is you process/procedure?
I am making no assumptions so will start at the beginning of how I successfully purge and bleed brake systems. This may or may not be helpful to you.
My process is start at the wheel that has the shortest lines between the master cylinder and the wheel caliber. The sequence is; driver front, passenger front, driver rear, passenger year. This sequence pushes air and old fluid out, clearing splits and galleries closest to farthest.
Bleeding brakes systems is a two person job in my home garage. Truck off, engine off. One person in the driver seat. One person under the truck.
- Guy under the truck gets all setup. Opens the bleed screw and calls out "push and hold".
- Driver pushes the pedal, not fast or hard but steady and firm, far as possible and holds. At end of stroke calls out "down".
- Guy under truck waits 2 seconds after the "down" then closes bleed screw then calls back "release".
- Driver releases brake pedal and calls out "up".
- Guy under the truck waits 2 seconds after the "up" then opens the bleed screw and calls out "push and hold"
- ...
- Driver seat person is responsible to check and refill the reservoir every 6 to 8 pumps of the pedal.
- ...
- repeat until fluid at the caliper flows clear and no air bubbles. This may take 20 to 50 cycles to get just one wheel done.
- when fluid is clear, clean up and move to the next wheel in the sequence
- if major re-re work of components or lines was done, the whole bleed process may need to be repeated a number of times, ex: 4 times. Simply start again at the front driver wheel, ending at rear passenger wheel.

 

don't laugh cause I've seen it... are all the calipers installed on the correct side...if the bleeder screws are at the bottom you will never get the air out.

 

Speaking of brakes rat holes.

What I would like to know from the brake experts is what glue / adhesive to use to reattach the brake lining material to the park brake shoes. Was servicing my park brakes on the weekend. The linings are like new wrt thickness, but have completely separated off of the shoes. A layer of rust managed to etch its way perfectly between the shoe and the lining like a precision knife cut. 3 of the 4 shoes have cleanly separated like this. I'd like to glue them back on and finish up the brake job. Sure, I could buy new shoes. But why go blow 120$ on parts when these are barely used and seems like could be easy enough to repair. I could probably scuff them up and use some hi-temp epoxy?

.

 

you can't/shouldn't. buy new. I have seen them detach...when the driver goes to back up...the wheel locks.

 

+1 I've supplied that info to at least 2 people on this forum, and it was the root cause. The calipers will bolt on the wrong sides just fine.

 

I’ve ran into same issues before. I’ve done all the brake lines on some trucks and I’ve literally had it take me over 2 to 3 hours to get a pedal back. Keep going and start at r/r then l/r then r/f then l/f in that order. But usually every truck I’ve done I was able to use automated bleed on my snap on vantage pro scanner....try different scanner if you can

 

I had a tractor that I couldn't buy new shoes for.... I found a local place that relinged shoes - but it would have been cheaper to buy parts store replacements than a custom job. I'm sure they have barely EPA legal adhesives and probably sandblast then coat the metal with anti-corrosion. Recommend you just buy new ones.

 

It takes adhesive and pressure. You can do it your self but you'll have to buy a press and an oven to bake it. New shoes are cheaper.

 

Found what I need! This is what I am going to use. Says its good for it right on the tube so it is perfect. Going for it.
http://eclecticproducts.com/products.../shoe-goo.html

( apologies for sidetracking firedogg's thread - back to bleeding brakes! )