'02 Ram 1500 5.7l - Randomly Dies
I'm hoping someone has had a similar issue and can point me in the right direction. A few weeks ago, I started a post (Thread Here) where I was having some issues with the truck I acquired. Initially, I thought it was a PCM/SKIM issue, but it's not looking that way now. Since my last thread, after letting the truck set for a week or so, I was able to go out and start the truck. I was able to do several starts and it seemed to be OK, but then it died on me again and wouldn't start back up (OBD scanner wouldn't connect to the truck, same symptoms as in the other post). I ordered a refurb, programmed PCM from Importapart and installed it in the truck. Truck started right up, but was idling very rough and the CIL came on with error P0505. This code pointed to the IAC, so I pulled it out and it looked pretty poor shape. I cleaned the throttle body and replaced the IAC, the truck is idling much better now (but the light is still on). I started up the truck to let it run for a bit to see if the truck needed time to recognize the new IAC when the truck randomly died again with the same symptoms as before 
Here's more information that I've gathered.

Here's more information that I've gathered.
- Both the old PCM and refurb PCM are doing the same thing, so I don't feel like it's the PCM going out. (what are the odds of two PCMs having this exact issue?)
- The refurb PCM was programmed with the SKIM bit 'off'. Before installing the PCM, I disconnected the SKIM module. so this should eliminate the SKIM/sentry system.
- Truck runs a random amount of time (as short as 30 seconds, sometime longer than 30mins), doesn't seem to matter if the truck is in gear moving, or idling the entire time before it dies.
- So far I've been able to consistently restart the truck within a couple of minutes. Sometimes I can just turn the key off and back on immediately, sometimes I have to give it a few tries, and once it just left the key in the 'ON' position for a few minutes before retrying to start.
- When the truck doesn't start, it still cranks
- When the truck dies, it appears to be related to PCM communication. OBD scanner stops being able to communicate with the system, Instrument cluster appears to lose connection (All gauges hang in position for a few seconds and then all drop to their resting point, gas light comes one, the little box around the gear the transmission is in disappears.)
- When I leave the key in the on position, I can tell when I can start the truck again because I can hear what I believe are some relaying clicking in the front and what I think is the fuel pump priming. Also at this time all the gauges go through their 'startup' cycle and the OBD scanner can communicate with the truck again.
Last edited by Paint; Jan 8, 2020 at 06:48 PM.
i had the same problem i replaced the crank sensor camshaftsensor and map and it fixed the issue. My problem now is that it turns off everytime after i gas up no matter if i put a couple bucks or fill it up . Will die sometimes right after i start it up or i drive off and reach first stop light. like clockwork everytime.
FELT LIKE THE CAMSHAFT SENSOR was the culprit but just went ahead after that and replaced the other two. one thing i will say is buy oem sensors dont buy aftermarket or duracrap from autozone. it will not run the same belive me
Same happened to me. It dies and we coast to side of the road. Wait a few minutes starts back up. I bought both sensors. Cam sensor has never come out of the box.
FWIW, I'd go with the crank sensor first. It's easier! To keep from breaking it off, make sure you clean out the hole thoroughly. Some PB blaster and scraping any rust buildup. When clean, PATIENTLY work it out a bit while twisting.
FWIW, I'd go with the crank sensor first. It's easier! To keep from breaking it off, make sure you clean out the hole thoroughly. Some PB blaster and scraping any rust buildup. When clean, PATIENTLY work it out a bit while twisting.
I dont think engine sensor malfunctions would cause a communication error with the cluster or scan tool but I could be wrong.
I think I have read similar circumstances with a defective ignition switch...but again just a guess on my part. You may want to investigate your ignition switch. A quick test would be to play with the ignition while its running and see if manipulating the switch a tad causes a shut down. Just another idea....
I think I have read similar circumstances with a defective ignition switch...but again just a guess on my part. You may want to investigate your ignition switch. A quick test would be to play with the ignition while its running and see if manipulating the switch a tad causes a shut down. Just another idea....
Probably a little late here. Either your mistaken on engine size or somebody has installed a Hemi in your truck. Hemi was only available from early 03 and on. So if in fact you do have a Hemi in an 02 somebody did a conversion and your problem could be anything but likely wiring.
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I appreciate all the responses. I apologize for the delayed response, I've had some personal matters come up...
Thanks for the tip, I'll see if I can find a video to of the crank sensor replacement to give me a better reference. Did you replace it with a Mopar sensor or some other brand?
Whatever the issue is seems to cause the PCM to lockup/reboot which I believe leads to the cluster and OBD to be unable not be able to communicate with the PCM. I think I read somewhere that a faulty sensor may short one of the voltage rails causing the PCM reboot, but I'm far from knowledgeable in the area to be able to say if that's the case or not. I've messed with the ignition switch while running and it seems to be fine. Regardless, appreciate the idea!
You are absolutely correct. I have a 5.9L engine, I must have mixed up the numbers. My apologies.
Same happened to me. It dies and we coast to side of the road. Wait a few minutes starts back up. I bought both sensors. Cam sensor has never come out of the box.
FWIW, I'd go with the crank sensor first. It's easier! To keep from breaking it off, make sure you clean out the hole thoroughly. Some PB blaster and scraping any rust buildup. When clean, PATIENTLY work it out a bit while twisting.
FWIW, I'd go with the crank sensor first. It's easier! To keep from breaking it off, make sure you clean out the hole thoroughly. Some PB blaster and scraping any rust buildup. When clean, PATIENTLY work it out a bit while twisting.
I dont think engine sensor malfunctions would cause a communication error with the cluster or scan tool but I could be wrong.
I think I have read similar circumstances with a defective ignition switch...but again just a guess on my part. You may want to investigate your ignition switch. A quick test would be to play with the ignition while its running and see if manipulating the switch a tad causes a shut down. Just another idea....
I think I have read similar circumstances with a defective ignition switch...but again just a guess on my part. You may want to investigate your ignition switch. A quick test would be to play with the ignition while its running and see if manipulating the switch a tad causes a shut down. Just another idea....
Probably a little late here. Either your mistaken on engine size or somebody has installed a Hemi in your truck. Hemi was only available from early 03 and on. So if in fact you do have a Hemi in an 02 somebody did a conversion and your problem could be anything but likely wiring.
Last edited by Paint; Jan 8, 2020 at 07:02 PM.
For the crank sensor, use ONLY a genuine mopar sensor. Yes, they are more expensive, but, they actually work right. 
On your engine, the crank sensor is behind the passenger side head, bolted to the flange the trans bolts to. (on the engine) It's a right pain to get to.... some get it from on top, others get it from underneath, and reach around..... either way, expect to have to contort yourself in painful ways to get it.

On your engine, the crank sensor is behind the passenger side head, bolted to the flange the trans bolts to. (on the engine) It's a right pain to get to.... some get it from on top, others get it from underneath, and reach around..... either way, expect to have to contort yourself in painful ways to get it.
For the crank sensor, use ONLY a genuine mopar sensor. Yes, they are more expensive, but, they actually work right. 
On your engine, the crank sensor is behind the passenger side head, bolted to the flange the trans bolts to. (on the engine) It's a right pain to get to.... some get it from on top, others get it from underneath, and reach around..... either way, expect to have to contort yourself in painful ways to get it.

On your engine, the crank sensor is behind the passenger side head, bolted to the flange the trans bolts to. (on the engine) It's a right pain to get to.... some get it from on top, others get it from underneath, and reach around..... either way, expect to have to contort yourself in painful ways to get it.

Last edited by Paint; Jan 8, 2020 at 08:03 PM.









