Bent pushrod?
So you've got the new lifters in, head installed and torqued, and now putting the head back together.
Make sure you have replaced the pushrods in their previous locations and pushrods with "I" on them are on intake valves. I assume you did this already, just a reminder.
You can definitely get the rocker arm installed without special tool 9070. You'll need to check and re-check as you go to ensure the pushrods are seated.
You can rotate the engine by hand, just go slow (about 1/8 turn at a time) and pause to give the lifters a chance to bleed down before turning the engine again. As you have seen, you need to rotate the engine to get the high pushrod low enough to seat into the rocker cup.
You may also want to change spark plugs while you've got the heads off. Cylinders 7 and 8 are a real pain to reach.
Make sure you have replaced the pushrods in their previous locations and pushrods with "I" on them are on intake valves. I assume you did this already, just a reminder.
You can definitely get the rocker arm installed without special tool 9070. You'll need to check and re-check as you go to ensure the pushrods are seated.
You can rotate the engine by hand, just go slow (about 1/8 turn at a time) and pause to give the lifters a chance to bleed down before turning the engine again. As you have seen, you need to rotate the engine to get the high pushrod low enough to seat into the rocker cup.
You may also want to change spark plugs while you've got the heads off. Cylinders 7 and 8 are a real pain to reach.
So you've got the new lifters in, head installed and torqued, and now putting the head back together.
Make sure you have replaced the pushrods in their previous locations and pushrods with "I" on them are on intake valves. I assume you did this already, just a reminder.
You can definitely get the rocker arm installed without special tool 9070. You'll need to check and re-check as you go to ensure the pushrods are seated.
You can rotate the engine by hand, just go slow (about 1/8 turn at a time) and pause to give the lifters a chance to bleed down before turning the engine again. As you have seen, you need to rotate the engine to get the high pushrod low enough to seat into the rocker cup.
You may also want to change spark plugs while you've got the heads off. Cylinders 7 and 8 are a real pain to reach.
Make sure you have replaced the pushrods in their previous locations and pushrods with "I" on them are on intake valves. I assume you did this already, just a reminder.
You can definitely get the rocker arm installed without special tool 9070. You'll need to check and re-check as you go to ensure the pushrods are seated.
You can rotate the engine by hand, just go slow (about 1/8 turn at a time) and pause to give the lifters a chance to bleed down before turning the engine again. As you have seen, you need to rotate the engine to get the high pushrod low enough to seat into the rocker cup.
You may also want to change spark plugs while you've got the heads off. Cylinders 7 and 8 are a real pain to reach.
I’m installing all new pushrods instead of using the old ones.
Silly question, when I turn it by hand, should I go clockwise or counter-clockwise or does it even matter?
I plan on installing all new spark plugs, the head is already in though lol..
Thank HeyYou!
I took the other head off and replaced lifters, and pushrods. Hoping to have it all done tomorrow. When I pulled the valve cover, there was some play in a couple of the rocker arms with cylinder 6 being the worse. Video attached, is this normal? The spring, pushrod and lifter seamed fine, it feels tight now after replacing lifters and pushrods. Did have a tap/tick on that side for a while, hoping it will be gone.
Also the fuel clip that’s inside the line that connects to the fuel rail got a little messed up when taking off. Would anyone happen to know what size clip that is? ( it’s the metal clip that you use a disconnect tool to get off.)
Thanks
I took the other head off and replaced lifters, and pushrods. Hoping to have it all done tomorrow. When I pulled the valve cover, there was some play in a couple of the rocker arms with cylinder 6 being the worse. Video attached, is this normal? The spring, pushrod and lifter seamed fine, it feels tight now after replacing lifters and pushrods. Did have a tap/tick on that side for a while, hoping it will be gone.
Also the fuel clip that’s inside the line that connects to the fuel rail got a little messed up when taking off. Would anyone happen to know what size clip that is? ( it’s the metal clip that you use a disconnect tool to get off.)
Thanks
I don't know if you can get just that clip.... might have to buy the whole connector. (and take the clip out of that one, put it in yours??) I believe Dorman has them in their Help! section.
No, pushrods being loose isn't normal.
My 8.0 has some pretty good valve rattle at startup, has as long as I have owned it. Noise hasn't changed though, so, I suspect some collapsed lifters. I am just not real motivated to tear it down.
I only drive about 4000 miles a year.......Quite a bit less this year.
No, pushrods being loose isn't normal.
My 8.0 has some pretty good valve rattle at startup, has as long as I have owned it. Noise hasn't changed though, so, I suspect some collapsed lifters. I am just not real motivated to tear it down.
I only drive about 4000 miles a year.......Quite a bit less this year.
You are boldly going where few have gone before.
Regarding the clip, auto parts store should have it, and name will be fuel injector clip, or fuel injector o-ring.
I agree with heyyou, that play isn't normal. What you are doing will fix the play though, and your engine will run better and quieter. It will run better because your valves will open longer and higher, and quieter because you will have the right lash. These engines use a matched set of lifters and valve springs to control lash.
Sometime valve seat wear can cause lash clearance problems.
In your case, it looks like you have some collapsed lifters. It may be something that happened over time, or someone may have gone too long between oil changes. Whatever the case, you are fixing it now.
You may want to pull the fuel pump fuse and cycle the starter after getting your new rods/lifters installed. I'd want to see the valves in action and check again for play before putting the valve cover back on.
I recommend following break in procedures when you get it all back together (break in oil, low rpm driving, change oil).
Regarding the clip, auto parts store should have it, and name will be fuel injector clip, or fuel injector o-ring.
I agree with heyyou, that play isn't normal. What you are doing will fix the play though, and your engine will run better and quieter. It will run better because your valves will open longer and higher, and quieter because you will have the right lash. These engines use a matched set of lifters and valve springs to control lash.
Sometime valve seat wear can cause lash clearance problems.
In your case, it looks like you have some collapsed lifters. It may be something that happened over time, or someone may have gone too long between oil changes. Whatever the case, you are fixing it now.
You may want to pull the fuel pump fuse and cycle the starter after getting your new rods/lifters installed. I'd want to see the valves in action and check again for play before putting the valve cover back on.
I recommend following break in procedures when you get it all back together (break in oil, low rpm driving, change oil).
Last edited by jrsick; Nov 3, 2020 at 07:43 AM.







