Parasitic draw after messing with parking light.
So i recently pulled my parking lights out, had to butt crimp a new wire between them as i messed up and shortened the wire to much and also crimped a new wire to tap off it for a relay. Now i have parasitic draw of killed battery within 1-2 days. What could I of possibly messed up to achieve this? .
I Also just noticed that my parking light bulb on that side appears to ve very very dimly glowing even with lights off. I can see 3 lines on it or so but that might be reflection because the lense is clouded right up.
Engine codes taken after jumpstart are:
canbus B (-) circuit high U0026
Park lamp control circuit open B165E
Headlamp circuit switch input high B1608
Panel dimmer input circuit high B160B
I Also just noticed that my parking light bulb on that side appears to ve very very dimly glowing even with lights off. I can see 3 lines on it or so but that might be reflection because the lense is clouded right up.
Engine codes taken after jumpstart are:
canbus B (-) circuit high U0026
Park lamp control circuit open B165E
Headlamp circuit switch input high B1608
Panel dimmer input circuit high B160B
Last edited by SnowBeast428; Mar 2, 2021 at 06:11 PM.
Update to this. The battery voltage low and park lamp control circuit open are the two codes that constantly keep coming back. The battery is good. I pulled the IOD fuse to see if it might be something internal related like the radio but i doubt it considering it was fine before i messed with the parking lamp. I got 2 months to fix this so any help would be nice.
There is no relay yet. I snipped the parking light hot wire in two and crimped an extension on it with butt connectors then crimped another wire in the other butt connector to tap off it and then i have it held by the overhead console sensor right now in the air connected to nothing and not touching any metal.
There is no relay yet. I snipped the parking light hot wire in two and crimped an extension on it with butt connectors then crimped another wire in the other butt connector to tap off it and then i have it held by the overhead console sensor right now in the air connected to nothing and not touching any metal. Intended to use it for cab lights (cab lights on a 1500 yes. I wanted them on it and therefore I'm going to put them on it)
I tested with a multimeter again as the wind decided to play nice for once and not slap me left and right and something interesting occured. I got about 534ma that dropped to about 340 then 230 and kept resetting when i tested. But when i tested with the IOD fuse off i got about 134 miliamps. Could it possibly be my radio has started acting up and this is unrelated to the lights or is it still possibel the light is at fault.
Edit: Don't think so. Saw a very small drop like 60ma if even (blew my main meters fuse so i am having a hard time reading this backup one).
Edit 2: Further testing shows that it settles at 500 with peaks of 920 ma randomly after like 10 minutes and with the ignition off draw fuse pulled it drops down to 160 and even immeasureable at sometimes. Cant do any more extended testing as im loosing feeling.
Edit: Don't think so. Saw a very small drop like 60ma if even (blew my main meters fuse so i am having a hard time reading this backup one).
Edit 2: Further testing shows that it settles at 500 with peaks of 920 ma randomly after like 10 minutes and with the ignition off draw fuse pulled it drops down to 160 and even immeasureable at sometimes. Cant do any more extended testing as im loosing feeling.
Last edited by SnowBeast428; Mar 8, 2021 at 08:15 PM.
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I have an idea but i need some help for this. How do i get access to the BCM? I think something isn't going to sleep. I've also heard the dash acts as the BCM but I want confirmation.
The functions of the BCM (Body Control Module) occur in the FCM on your truck. The FCM is the square box located under the IPM. What are you going to do when you find the BCM/FCM? I recommend you download a factory service manual and read the section on Power Distribution.
Some trucks come with wiring already in place for cab lights. This is hit and miss. If you have the wiring, there will be 5 gray/white wires behind the passenger side A pillar. These wires could also be behind the glove compartment or passenger kick panel. Some 1500s have this wiring and some do not.
Another way to determine if something isn't going to sleep is to remove the key and close all the the doors for 30 minutes prior to checking for current.
I'm having some trouble following what's been done here so I can't be much help. You cut the wire to a parking light, but cut it too short? What did you crimp in? Did you splice a wire into the parking light wire? How did you terminate the new wire? What led you to check for parasitic draw? I don't mean to ask too many questions, just looks like the wire cutting/crimping is what let to your problem.
Some trucks come with wiring already in place for cab lights. This is hit and miss. If you have the wiring, there will be 5 gray/white wires behind the passenger side A pillar. These wires could also be behind the glove compartment or passenger kick panel. Some 1500s have this wiring and some do not.
Another way to determine if something isn't going to sleep is to remove the key and close all the the doors for 30 minutes prior to checking for current.
I'm having some trouble following what's been done here so I can't be much help. You cut the wire to a parking light, but cut it too short? What did you crimp in? Did you splice a wire into the parking light wire? How did you terminate the new wire? What led you to check for parasitic draw? I don't mean to ask too many questions, just looks like the wire cutting/crimping is what let to your problem.











