Upon further inspection also known as reading, I saw on my code scanner 3 of my codes I have are the FCM screaming. Where is it located, how much of a pain is it to remove, and will it require stealership coding (What does it control as i might skip that if needed). I'm tired of this 1 amp battery drain after blowing something because I didn't disconnect the battery as I have never had a car I've needed to do that until now. I had a post about this before thinking it's the parking lamp soley but upon actually reading for once and seeing that this code is persistent I've changed my search method.

So i want to know what it does, Where is it located, is it a nightmare to get out and does it require programming or can i get away with leaving it blank if i dont have any special stuff.

The codes are as follow:
- U0024 CAN B Bus (-) Circuit Open
- B210D Battery Voltage Low (This is almost certainly from my battery shutoff switch)
- B165E Park Lamp Control Circuit Open

This all started when i cut the parking lamp positive and re connected it with the battery attached because I am dumb and didn't want to get out the pry bar to get my terminals off (No longer an issue due to the cutoff switch but yeah. Heavy mistakes were made)

Edit: I just had a realization and... am i screwed and i have to get a new TIPM or have it repaired which is going to cost money I don't have.

 

I'm not sure what truck you have, and there were some changes to the control module setup in 2006, but, if you have an PCM truck the FCM will be below it. There is a harness coming out of the PCM going to the FCM. I'd recommend against replacing FCM until you have isolated problem to the FCM.
A low or bad battery will give all kinds of unusual indications. Bad grounds will also. Faulty ignition starter switch will give similar symptoms.
I recommend getting the parasitic draw problem resolved first. Then reset the computer by disconnecting the battery for 30 minutes and see what you've got.
Electrical problems can seem complex at first, but are often basic.

 

It all started with that parking light that doesn't work right now and i have undid my fix and etc and still nothing. It's just that parking light that wont turn on either (Turn signal still works) all the others work. 2007 Dodge ram 1500 Quad cab is what I have. It's about 700ma to a full amp even after 40 minutes. The battery is fully charged considering I disconnect the battery everytime the truck is off now and the truck can sit for 4 days and still the codes return the second i turn the battery back on. This is why I'm thinking its a TIPM.

Edit: Went to test the thing then I realized I'm way over my head here and got no idea what to do to even test if thats the issue.

 

If troubleshooting this problem is beyond your skill set, you can always go to a shop that specializes in auto electrical repair.
Even if you decide to send to a technician, I think you save the technician some time (and you some money) by isolating the source.
Some decent equipment and a basic strategy will help. A probe-type tester that you connect to the battery will make testing easier. A power probe brand is fairly expensive, but you can get knock-offs online for around $30. I bought a cheap tester years ago to troubleshoot a trailer plug problem, but I find myself using it almost every week. But you can do this with a multimeter, you just need to connect to a reliable ground, preferably the battery.
Start with the plug on the parking light wire you cut. Determine which pins are positive, and which are ground. If you can't find a positive, or it's a weak positive, then you have a short somewhere. With the tester attached to the plug, wiggle the wire you cut and see if voltage changes.
How are you measuring parasitic draw? With MM in between battery and neg cable?
Pull fuse for parking lights with meter attached and reading steady. Does the value drop? You may want to record the meter reading while you pull fuse if doing this by yourself.
Some good videos on parasitic draw, and testing headlights. I am not sure if your headlights circuit has a small constant hot wire or not. You would need to research headlight test for your truck.

 

I have been doing multi meter test between battery and neg cable and it seems that with the ignition draw off fuse pulled the meter goes to near zero AFTER i redid the parking light wiring again which makes me feel like its the sensing circuit constantly on as canbus is upset. I talked with some TIPM rebuilders and they said that im getting on the right talk atleast and that due to the codes present it is a high chance. It's 190-270 for repair and what not.

All other fuses made no difference. I have a theory based off the wiring diagrams that canbus (B-) which goes to the headlight switch is doing something. Just for giggles and ****s im going to unplug the headlight switch tommorow actually and run a test.

 

After reading the diagrams more I think I'm onto something. So the power circuit for the parking lights and etc are always hot in the TIPM it seems and they're simply switched by the headlight switch which is also always hot. So i think something did infact go inside the TIPM that is either causing the drain or mis representating the inputs. It's 85 bucks if nothing is wrong with the TIPM and they do a simple evaluation and testing so I think for that deal it's atleast worth it to try.

 

Good work, let us know if you find the fix.

 

I am deeply disgusted as I think one of my original theories I had before might infact be correct. I unplugged the gauge cluster and the current dropped hard. Went from 0.3-0.7 and alternating to 0.001amps. Now I have to go and research yet again. I think its to related to how there are glowing grid-lines on my dashboard whenever i turn it off and the stepper motors flutter CONSTANTLY like every 30 seconds nonstop for at least an hour.

Edit: I tracked it down even further to connector C3 the big wide grey one, This appears to be the main connector powering the backlighting, the stepper motors, the LCD screen and more. I have the pin out and im attempting to track which wire is constantly getting power but i find myself lacking in ability to get the probe in there.
Edit 2: I tracked it down to Connector C3 pin 26 (B+) being hot 24/7. I feel like that might be normal however as it's battery positive. But atleast to me it suggests that the cluster is the problem.

 

So i need an awnser, does the IOD fuse clear codes/emission data.

 

No. There is a separate fuse for the PCM. Not sure which one though.