So I just installed an aftermarket remote start and it works great, but I'd like for the parking lights to turn on while it's running. The system has a wire to toggle them on (it's a ground but ill worry about that later). The only issue I'm having is that according to the wiring diagram the switch on the dash is only one wire, determined by resistance I'm assuming. My question is, do any of you have an idea of how I can make the truck think the parking light switch is on?

EDIT: added picture of diagram for reference

 

What is the voltage going INTO the headlight switch? Is it 12, or 5??

 

Not sure, I checked the pins and I'm getting no voltage. I think it's just continuity and resistance. I'll add a pinout of the switch below

 

Parking light position is 1120 ohms and headlights are 2000 ohms at pins 1 and 3 on the switch

 

Should be voltage on pin 1 with ignition on, I would think......

 

Nope. Even in the smallest setting I get nothing (200mv setting) Tried pin 1 to the return, and pin 1 to ground

edit- I didn't try it with the ignition on but the switch still turns the headlights on and off without a key so i didnt try it. The fuse is also a battery fuse and not ignition toggled

 

That's weird... You are correct though, it should be hot at all times.

The only way I know of to check resistance on a circuit, is to pass a known voltage into it, and see what you get on the other side..... I am *assuming* that dodge does it the same way.... but, you know how that goes..... It obviously works, however they are doing it... Might be time to consult a service manual, and see if it can shed any light on the topic.

I wonder if it's ac voltage?? That would be even weirder..... So wouldn't surprise if dodge didn't do it that way.

 

Exactly what I'm doing right now. All it says is that it is a resistance circuit, and I was right to test the continuity because it says fog/headlamps are on pins 1 and 3. I'll attach some screenshots to help you

 

Ok, that's not really helpful. I am REAL curious HOW they measure the resistance on the circuit, WITHOUT passing current thru it....... Does it mention testing the headlight connector itself anywhere in there?

I suppose you could splice a couple wires into the connector, run the thru a resistor of the appropriate caliber, then thru a relay, and back to the connector. Control relay with the ground wire from the alarm box. (constant power feed on control side of circuit for the relay.)

 

That's the only thing I could think of doing once I saw that
What do you mean? Like the connector at the actual lamp?