Craziest problem ever
Craziest problem ever
Alright folks, greetings. Haven't been in a forum for years. Whoever can solve this for me, I'll give a beautiful cabin in the woods to you for two weeks, in BC western Canada. Ocean front near Vancouver, or in the mountains further north. Great fishing, wildlife, off grid. I don't even care if you throw out ideas. I'll try them, if it works, bingo. I've had it to three shops, including the dealer, one fixed it temporarily. Not interested in spending more money on it. It could take them days, can't risk that.
Here we go:
5.9 gas engine, propane/gasoline powered. Propane system has been ruled out as being the problem. Disconnected even.
MAY have been "vandalized", somehow. MAYBE mice chewed something. Just covering all bases here. Will continue working on it, and re checking the basics again to be sure something new hasn't coincidentally popped up.
SPUTTERS. Runs like ****. Sometimes better or worse. Whole ignition system has been checked, is fine, and everything new anyway.
This has been a six month saga. It was finally resolved 2 weeks ago by a great shop but by fluke, discovering it ran fine in reverse. Neutral safety switch (46re) was identified as the issue, by unplugging it. Replaced with a new one. Problem solved! Does it again now two weeks later. So:
-Unplugged the switch, didn't help.
- pins loose, pushed them in a bit, ran great for twenty minutes! Thought I had it resolved. Nope.
-cut the wire to pcm in case it was shorting, no dice.
SHOULDN'T UNPLUGGING IT (WHILE RUNNING) IDENTIFY WHETHER IT'S THE ISSUE? why would pushing the pins in once seem to totally fix it, then not? It ran perfect, under load etc for twenty min. Hadn't don't that in weeks.
-water?
-short in harness? Why would that effect anything if it's unplugged? Is it powered while unplugged?
Other points:
-cut cat out. Didn't help. Soup canned temporarily, sensors connected. Maybe messing with pcm fuel ratio etc?
-Bad gas? Been through enough, methyl hydrate, several tanks, cleaner, diluting for months. Couldn't siphon but pumped some out of fuel rail when testing pressure(which is fine), and let it sit in a jar. Looks clean.
-Map sensor code occasionally.p0107. p0108 Changed three times. Not known to even fail generally. Wiring signals check fine -vacuum test was fine re intake manifold etc
-torque converter solenoid code occasionally p0740. Related to neutral safety switch? Don't think so. ??
- cooling system code 1289 twice recently. Temperature sensor replaced recently by shop that fixed this whole thing successfully, although it's doing it again.
-couple cat codes recently but didn't come back. Maybe pcm just reading the fact it was cut out to recalibrate?
-replaced computer, reprogrammed by Dodge, didn't help. Ended up frying it, put old one back in. Fried it by following a wiring diagram which was incorrect and I short circuited coil primary to asd connector trying to isolate a coil primary circuit issue
- coil primary circuit issue was reading on shop diagnostics, but system checked out fine. Maybe it's not now. Will follow up. Remember the truck has run fine at times, twice. Related to that neutral safety switch both times. Also ran fine once months ago after replacing a map sensor
-asd fuel pump relay fuse blew once while driving it like ****. Fuse looked fine but wasn't. Replaced, started and continued to run like ****.
Can't think of anything else! I'll continue to reconfirm things mentioned here, to be sure it's not something new causing a problem coincidentally. But if I find the answer here, IDK! I'll make a donation to your charity of choice. And give you a great deal on the truck if you want to buy it lol. It's a great truck otherwise. Tons of money spent. Propane is awesome. The relationship has soured for me is all lol. All new front end. Rear end. Suspension. 3-4" lift. Air bags. Newer trans, heads. Only rust on rear wheel wells, rest is clean, frame etc. Scratchy, not mint by any means. Function over form, but presents well enough. Fully loaded.
Thanks for any assistance folks.
Here we go:
5.9 gas engine, propane/gasoline powered. Propane system has been ruled out as being the problem. Disconnected even.
MAY have been "vandalized", somehow. MAYBE mice chewed something. Just covering all bases here. Will continue working on it, and re checking the basics again to be sure something new hasn't coincidentally popped up.
SPUTTERS. Runs like ****. Sometimes better or worse. Whole ignition system has been checked, is fine, and everything new anyway.
This has been a six month saga. It was finally resolved 2 weeks ago by a great shop but by fluke, discovering it ran fine in reverse. Neutral safety switch (46re) was identified as the issue, by unplugging it. Replaced with a new one. Problem solved! Does it again now two weeks later. So:
-Unplugged the switch, didn't help.
- pins loose, pushed them in a bit, ran great for twenty minutes! Thought I had it resolved. Nope.
-cut the wire to pcm in case it was shorting, no dice.
SHOULDN'T UNPLUGGING IT (WHILE RUNNING) IDENTIFY WHETHER IT'S THE ISSUE? why would pushing the pins in once seem to totally fix it, then not? It ran perfect, under load etc for twenty min. Hadn't don't that in weeks.
-water?
-short in harness? Why would that effect anything if it's unplugged? Is it powered while unplugged?
Other points:
-cut cat out. Didn't help. Soup canned temporarily, sensors connected. Maybe messing with pcm fuel ratio etc?
-Bad gas? Been through enough, methyl hydrate, several tanks, cleaner, diluting for months. Couldn't siphon but pumped some out of fuel rail when testing pressure(which is fine), and let it sit in a jar. Looks clean.
-Map sensor code occasionally.p0107. p0108 Changed three times. Not known to even fail generally. Wiring signals check fine -vacuum test was fine re intake manifold etc
-torque converter solenoid code occasionally p0740. Related to neutral safety switch? Don't think so. ??
- cooling system code 1289 twice recently. Temperature sensor replaced recently by shop that fixed this whole thing successfully, although it's doing it again.
-couple cat codes recently but didn't come back. Maybe pcm just reading the fact it was cut out to recalibrate?
-replaced computer, reprogrammed by Dodge, didn't help. Ended up frying it, put old one back in. Fried it by following a wiring diagram which was incorrect and I short circuited coil primary to asd connector trying to isolate a coil primary circuit issue
- coil primary circuit issue was reading on shop diagnostics, but system checked out fine. Maybe it's not now. Will follow up. Remember the truck has run fine at times, twice. Related to that neutral safety switch both times. Also ran fine once months ago after replacing a map sensor
-asd fuel pump relay fuse blew once while driving it like ****. Fuse looked fine but wasn't. Replaced, started and continued to run like ****.
Can't think of anything else! I'll continue to reconfirm things mentioned here, to be sure it's not something new causing a problem coincidentally. But if I find the answer here, IDK! I'll make a donation to your charity of choice. And give you a great deal on the truck if you want to buy it lol. It's a great truck otherwise. Tons of money spent. Propane is awesome. The relationship has soured for me is all lol. All new front end. Rear end. Suspension. 3-4" lift. Air bags. Newer trans, heads. Only rust on rear wheel wells, rest is clean, frame etc. Scratchy, not mint by any means. Function over form, but presents well enough. Fully loaded.
Thanks for any assistance folks.
Administrator
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 87,468
Likes: 4,221
From: Clayton MI
Neutral safety switch is only a factor when you are trying to start the truck, and all it does is enable the ground path for the starter exciter relay. (the part that actually sends power to solenoid.)
The P1289 code is rather confusing. You don't have a cylinder head temp sensor, and you don't have a manifold tune valve either...... It's not a diesel, right??
How old are the O2 sensors? What brand? Does the truck start and idle ok when stone cold, and start screwing up a couple minutes later??
The P1289 code is rather confusing. You don't have a cylinder head temp sensor, and you don't have a manifold tune valve either...... It's not a diesel, right??
How old are the O2 sensors? What brand? Does the truck start and idle ok when stone cold, and start screwing up a couple minutes later??
Neutral safety switch is only a factor when you are trying to start the truck, and all it does is enable the ground path for the starter exciter relay. (the part that actually sends power to solenoid.)
The P1289 code is rather confusing. You don't have a cylinder head temp sensor, and you don't have a manifold tune valve either...... It's not a diesel, right??
How old are the O2 sensors? What brand? Does the truck start and idle ok when stone cold, and start screwing up a couple minutes later??
The P1289 code is rather confusing. You don't have a cylinder head temp sensor, and you don't have a manifold tune valve either...... It's not a diesel, right??
How old are the O2 sensors? What brand? Does the truck start and idle ok when stone cold, and start screwing up a couple minutes later??
Should I try running a wire direct to PCM from the map voltage wire? To wherever it lands in the PCM I mean? Maybe a bad wire?
I sure appreciate this. It could explain it. Excited but not holding my breath... I wonder what to do from here to confirm is the thing... I want to run out in the snow and dark right now and try, but not sure how to proceed.
Neutral safety switch is only a factor when you are trying to start the truck, and all it does is enable the ground path for the starter exciter relay. (the part that actually sends power to solenoid.)
The P1289 code is rather confusing. You don't have a cylinder head temp sensor, and you don't have a manifold tune valve either...... It's not a diesel, right??
How old are the O2 sensors? What brand? Does the truck start and idle ok when stone cold, and start screwing up a couple minutes later??
The P1289 code is rather confusing. You don't have a cylinder head temp sensor, and you don't have a manifold tune valve either...... It's not a diesel, right??
How old are the O2 sensors? What brand? Does the truck start and idle ok when stone cold, and start screwing up a couple minutes later??
Neutral safety switch is only a factor when you are trying to start the truck, and all it does is enable the ground path for the starter exciter relay. (the part that actually sends power to solenoid.)
The P1289 code is rather confusing. You don't have a cylinder head temp sensor, and you don't have a manifold tune valve either...... It's not a diesel, right??
How old are the O2 sensors? What brand? Does the truck start and idle ok when stone cold, and start screwing up a couple minutes later??
The P1289 code is rather confusing. You don't have a cylinder head temp sensor, and you don't have a manifold tune valve either...... It's not a diesel, right??
How old are the O2 sensors? What brand? Does the truck start and idle ok when stone cold, and start screwing up a couple minutes later??
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I should add, this was a gradual onset, beginning last summer, for a minute, then nothing for weeks. After the second time it was basically a down hill slide, to now where it's constant, except for these couple times mentioned, after replacing map sensor, neutral safety switch, and pushing the pins in on the neutral safety switch.