Purchased new in 2005, 1500 Ram hemi short bed regular cab, 5.7 has 156,000 miles and still drives like a beast. MSD coil packs, 8.5mm wires, cold air intake, BBK throttle body. Rebuilt original 545 rfe transmission. I’ve done every tuneup and oil change. Ready to have it stroked out to 392. I’m keeping the original 20” rims.
My questions are:
1) what transmission options would best fit?
2) what gearing for the rear end?
3) best suspension options?
4) will an hp90 hook up a 2005 hemi?
5) best torque converter?
I want this truck to be between 600-800 hp, obnoxiously loud with a deep cam lope, and able to absolutely rip up the road.

I’ve been looking at MMX engines/stroker kits and Paramount transmissions. Want to get a 2” drop on the front, and air bags for the back.
Also looking for advice on “decent” pricing for the transmission install/swap and engine install or rebuild for a stroker. I want to eventually hit it with a 150 shot of nitrous. What’s too much to spend for a good mechanic to do some work?

 

1) Best "fit" of course would be an RFE; that's what it was designed with. Unfortunately you're gonna be on borrowed time behind that 392. Your options here are:
a) Keep a spare trans on hand at all times; I knew a guy who sand drag raced a 392 2004 4x4 who did exactly this back in the day.
b) Convert to something else, either manual or auto. At that point you have a plethora of options. The more popular ones:
1. 46RE - 4sp auto from later 2nd gen into 3rd gen behind the magnum engines.
2. 46RH/A518 - predecessor to the 46RH, hydraulic instead of electronic. Can be cheaply built to handle immense power. Basically an old A727 with an OD unit.
3. NAG1 - near bulletproof trans from the cars, stands up to repeated beatings by SRT 392 engines, good to about 600 hp.
4. 8HP70 - more recent swap choice, the 8 speed from the newer vehicles. This has been done to 3rd gens, most notably a 2004 QC with a 6.1 based 392.
5. Your choice of manual. These swaps have been done since 3G's were new, as there are factory parts to support this (no ½ ton hemi stick, but the ¾-1 tons had that option).

2) Directly relates to cam and trans choice. Cam for the rpm range and trans for the gear ratio split. For example, 4.56's work really well with the RFE; they would not with an 8HP70 because of the insane 4.71 1st gear (unless you like pulling ocean liners up at low tide with your
new granny gear).

3) Depends on whether you're 2wd or 4wd, you didn't specify.

4) Yes but you don't need a 90 (a 70 will do plus be cheaper) unless you are installing a super overbuilt boosted monster. Remember, 8HP90's are put strictly behind Hellcat & up engines. If you're planning on 700+ hp, then it's a sensible option (again, not specified).

5) Will also directly depend on what trans and cam you select.

You will not get 600-800 hp with a naturally aspirated 5.7 stroker, especially if you are sticking with pre-eagle heads (again, not specified). With eagle heads you could probably get close to the 600 mark at the crank (not at the wheels though) that is still somewhat engine management friendly on the street. If you went absolutely wild with cam and compression and everything else be damned, well this is what it takes: https://www.motortrend.com/news/401c...hallenge-2014/
Probably not getting that to run in your truck easily lol. Cammed factory 392's get into the 500 range no problem because they have the bigger bore for the heads they use (apache heads have huge valves and ports and are the same architecture for the hellcat).
If you can't do the conversion and/or install work yourself, then be prepared to open that wallet WIDE. Parts will be expensive enough, as will the tuning and whatnot but it's the LABOR that is going to kill you. Good luck!

 

I think keep the 2005 truck stock. Instead go buy a scat pack challenger with a 6pd manual. Best asset value option. We are replaying 1970 all over again. The govt has killed the horsepower wars and this is your last chance to buy a legend brand new.

 

Magnoom, great advice, thank you. Sounds like the 8hp70 is the way to go. It’s a rear wheel drive truck. What’s the deal with our differentials? Are they open or anti-spin? I’ll probably keep my current truck and build it, then buy a new 2022 classic Ram. They are about to go out of production.

 

Limited slip was an option... and also part of various packages. Only way to know for sure is to check. Build sheet might tell ya as well.

 

Both, depending on build option. If you go with the 8HP70 you have to figure out which e-shifter you're gonna use (car type console or truck type dial) and where you're gonna put it. I converted my 2003 to 2012 seats, console and floor shift so I already have a spot for the car type shifter once I finish gathering the rest of the parts.