Dropped the tank yesterday. My 16mm socket was not deep enough. Got a 3/8”-1/2” adapter and used my 16mm impact socket. Spraying the nuts liberally days prior with Kroil worked like a charm. I jacked the rear and put the truck on jackstands. Went to install jack under the tank and the jack stopped functioning. Looked to be low on hydraulic oil so off again to purchase some (kudos to Advance Auto for giving me a partial bottle for no charge). Didn’t matter. Jack must be bypassing fluid internally. Was going to go back out again (3rd time) and buy a new jack but was able to borrow my neighbor’s 3-ton. Getting the fuel filler hose off the filler neck tube was a nightmare (on there since 2005), but I was able to squirt a little Kroil through a space created with a hose removal tool and after that, it popped right off. Most of the hoses came off easily, but the lock retaining clips broke for the fuel line at the pump and the hose going to the charcoal canister. Dropped tank and removed the pump. The tank was full of rusted lock ring. Siphoned the fuel out and washed the tank out three times. Inside (except for the rusty pieces) was clean as new. It was time-consuming grinding down the remnants of the lock ring tabs. Dried out the tank and installed a new fuel pump with the Renu kit. I used the Seal-All under the ring, on the screws and after torquing I ran a bead along the outer edge just to be sure. Need to pressurize with air this morning and check for any leaks. If any, I have some Pro Seal fuel tank sealant I can use. With 100° temps it was a challenge. Hope to be up and running before noon.

 

Good work. You can buy replacement line clips at auto parts stores. Take your broken parts in to match them up.

 

Installed the tank. Solo. Not too bad but the last strap (fwd) was a ****. But in and done. Put 4 gals of fuel in the tank and started it and the gauge read E and 0 to Empty, but after 15 gals at the pump the indication was normal. No leaks pre or post-install. Took some sweat equity but way cheaper than a new tank.

 

What is that clear sealant that you used? It looks like silicone...

 

Sorry, I see you called it out
Seal-All
Never heard of it before this.... I'll have to check it out.

Do you have, can you post a picture of it before you installed this repair kit? I am curious how this works, how it attaches, and what it attaches to.
Does the kit call out for some sort of sealant like Seal-All or did you improvise and improvement.

Do you have the integrity now to pass the onboard EVAP test?

 

No “before” pics. I wanted to, but was hot, sweaty, filthy and hands had fuel on them so I skipped it lol.

The kit includes the ring, the self-tapping screws with rubber seals and a tube of Seal-All, plus instructions. It’s very simple to install (simple after the tank is out). Once I had the tank cleaned and washed out, I used a pair of duck-billed pliers to snap off as much of the remnants of the rusted lock studs as possible, then used a Dremel tool to grind them flush. Once prepped, I spread two lines of the sealant on the mating surface of the ring (inside and outside of the screw holes), installed the new pump aligned in the proper location, placed the ring (sealant-side down), held it in place and drilled two pilot holes with a 1/8” drill bit. I applied some sealant in the hole and coated the threads of the screw, and installed two screws 180° apart. Once tightened enough to prevent the pump from moving, I drilled the rest of the pilot holes and installed the remaining screws in similar fashion, the did a final torque. Once torqued, I applied a bead of sealant around the outer edge of the ring. It sealed it 100%, as it passed a pressurized leak check the following morning.

As far as passing inspection, that remains to be seen. I drove it about 15 miles with no issues, but need to put about 40-50 more miles on it before I get the truck inspected (due in July). I’m sure this repair is good. Just need to make sure nothing else may pop an EVAP leak code.

 

It sure does look like a good repair done by someone who has some "hands on tools experience"
You mentioned ProSeal, Are you an A&P?

 

Since 1987. Started my aviation maintenance career in 1978. If I stay current until 2038, I’ll qualify for the Charles Taylor award (50 years in aviation).

I was tempted to use PR-1422 Class A sealant, but figured if I had a bad pump from stock, the Seal-All would be way easier to remove than Pro Seal.

 

Roger that about ProSeal... that stuff is tenacious.


50 years, wow. You're gonna need a lot more than ProSeal to hold it all together until you're 78... I started sweeping up around the hangar in Y2000 (at 35 years old) and achieved my A&P in 30 months... A lot of my previous trade and life experience all came together in aviation and brought me to a higher standard of excellence. The hangar where I did my practical, the DER wanted me to move to his town and go work for him.

I didn't necessarily want to work on airplanes as a career, rather I wanted to legally and safely repair my own. I started to repair my cars as a kid because I couldn't afford to pay someone... now that I can afford it, I can't find anyone (well, very few) people that I trust to work on my vehicles. So I am still screwed, lol.

Keep em flying!
Cheers

 

Sorry, my math skills are poor early in the morning lol. 2028, not 2038. My plan has always been to retire at 67 (2027), which I’ll be in September. But if I stick around three more months, that’ll be 50 years. Started in US Army Aviation in 1978 on helicopters, worked as an unlicensed mechanic on corporate and wet-leased military aircraft for a defense contractor and started my airline career in 1989. Been in management since 1993 and currently manage a line maintenance station. Things have changed a lot in almost 34 years with the airlines. No more “repaired via standard practice” sign-offs anymore!