I popped a P0455 code a while back and never saw anything obvious. I changed the cap- no help. I cleared the code a few times and noticed with a 1/3-1/2 tank it took a while for the CEL to pop again, but a 1/4 tank or less it would illuminate quicker. My 2005 1500 QC 4x4 has 177K and while I moved to Texas four years ago, it shows the ravages of 14 years of road salt lol. So, I decided to fill the tank, which I rarely do as it’s a weekend driver (mostly to go fishing 1 to 25 miles tops). After the pump shut off I smelled fuel. Yep. The EVAP leak was from the fuel tank at the pump. I used my phone to take pics and saw a bunch of debris laying around the pump which turned out to be pieces of corroded lock ring. I’m guessing it’s been this way for a while.

So I have to replace the lock ring and likely the gasket. I’m almost 63 and not as agile as I used to be. I was wondering if it’s possible to lower the fuel tank enough the remove the electrical harness and fuel line, if the lock ring could be installed without totally dropping the tank and removing the pump. Now, if the gasket is shot that’s probably not an option. I have no one to help so this would be a solo project.

Thoughts?

 

Could try lifting the bed instead, but, given it's experience with road salt, not sure the bolts would be willing to come out....

 

True. And not something I can do myself at this time.

 

Got any neighborhood kids that can play tool monkey for you?

 

Negative on local help.

Before I give this a go, let me ask this as I can’t find an answer anywhere. I know the lock ring is steel and the tank is plastic. But does the lock ring lock onto plastic tabs on the tank or is there a steel insert at the opening into the tank that the lock ring is attached to? If so, that is also likely corroded and I my be looking at a tank replacement. I tried to take a pic but not a lot of room so it’s hard to tell. But I’m guessing it’s a steel insert so I may be screwed.

 

That, I don't know..... I paid someone else to address my fuel pump problems.....

 

After doing some more research, I found out the locking studs are indeed steel, so I know they are corroded as well. So I’m going to install a new fuel pump with a TR26-R - GM - DODGE- FORD PLASTIC GAS TANK LOCK RING REPAIR kit that negates the studs and lock ring.

 

Received the repair kit yesterday. Looks like it should do the trick.

I do not have any deep well mm sockets. I keep hearing the tank strap nuts are 15mm, 16mm (even saw 13mm somewhere). I believe they are 16mm. Can anyone confirm that?

$$$$$ of 1/4”, 3/8” and 1/2” drive standard shallow and deep well Snap-On sockets and I need to buy a socket lol.

 

The nuts are 16mm for sure. You'll need a socket that is deeper than 3 inches.
It sounds like you are going to drop tank to the ground, which is what I recommend.
I'd also recommend draining and cleaning your tank. Your fuel tank is open to the atmosphere and likely has significant amount of trash inside. Consider replacing fuel pump since you'll have it out.

 

Goal is to accomplish this task this upcoming weekend. I’m dropping the tank out (it’s about 95% empty) and will drain all the fuel and wash out the tank and dry it. I’m also installing a new fuel pump. I also plan on checking out all lines and plastic connection for cracks, etc. and making sure everything is good before reinstalling the tank. The charcoal canister (unlike on the videos I watched) is not installed on the tank so checking that will be easier.