I am trying to find a common factor to the wipers, taillights, running lights and fog lights in my 2005 Ram 2500. I first noticed the wipers would only work intermittently; they would stop in mid-wipe and stutter. Then I saw that my running lights were not working. I saw that my fog lights were also not working and that the running lights and fog lights would work or not work at the same time as the wipers. A guy at work let me know that my taillights were out at the same time my wipers and running lights weren't working. I verified that all 4 are stuttering/blinking in time with each other, from which I think the problem is common to all four.

I have replaced the IPM to no avail. I've ordered a FCM to replace next. I know there is a problem with the FCM because I had to take the headlight signal from the left headlight to make the right headlight work. Perhaps the FCM is responsible for the newer problems? Is there a ground common to all four of these?

Has anyone encountered this combination of problems? My turn signals and brake lights are still working perfectly. All the bulbs are working fine whenever they receive the signal. I've also noticed that the problems tend to be worse in cooler weather and better in warmer weather.

I appreciate any insights you may have.

 

Damn Gremlin... I am subscribed.
Good luck.
I can't wait to hear what you find and how you fix it.

Welcome to the forum, sorry it wasn't under better circumstances.
Cheers!

 

I am cautiously optimistic about the latest fix I've tried. I had previously replaced the IPM but that didn't resolve the issues I was having (see top post in thread). But I ordered a rebuilt FCM from tipmrebuilders.com and that seems to have done the trick. All my running lights, taillights, fog lights and windshield wipers are now functioning properly.

As noted above, I had bypassed the FCM signal to my right headlight because the truck was telling me I had a lamp out. I ran a wire from the left headlight to the right headlight to get the right headlight to work. So, before I replaced the FCM, I rewired the right headlight as it was originally. I also connected my battery cables together and did the soft reset that Mak's recommended before I started the truck back up. The right headlight is now working properly and receiving the signal from the FCM.

 

Good on ya RichardB-SETN... thanks for telling of your positive outcome... I have some gremlins myself and IPM was where I intended to look.

So, did/do you have to send in your FCM or is there a core charge? Do you still have your old FCM?

I ask because I was in a job where we had robots and sometimes the robots would break, go figure, right? Many of the other field technicians would replace parts (boards) that would then get red tagged and returned to the factory where a bench technician would test and repair them. ( Just like you did with IPM Rebuilders. ) most of the boards returned would get repaired sent back with green tags that said that they couldn't find any faults with the component board.

I started having my techs, after they fixed the machine, and when time permitted, I wanted them to reinstall all the boards one by one and PROVE that the board was really bad before we sent it into the factory for repair. As an avionics technician, many times the mere action of unplugging and then replugging in a radio or navigation equipment many times that fixed the problem.
When you first started having this faults above, did you remember if you tried to 'reboot' the system by touching the disconnected battery terminals together first? Before replacing the FCM?
That is always the very first thing internet tech support has you do, reboot...

I would love to hear if your truck works now with the old FCM reinstalled, but I know that might be a big ask...

Cheers!

 

I do still have the old FCM. They didn't ask me to send it in for a core refund or rebuild. I took the FCM off of my old IPM and installed it on the new one and still had all the same symptoms: wipers, taillights, running lights and fog lights not working and still getting the Lamp Out signal to my dash. This leads me to believe the FCM was the cause of all the problems.

I could try to reinstall the old FCM when I get a chance. If I do, I will certainly note the results on this thread.

 

I did attach the battery cables together when I replaced the IPM and when I replaced the FCM. I also performed the "soft reset" on both occasions. I did not do either action before I replaced the IPM.

 

Thank you but I still choose to verify as I am not 100% sure I really know.

Did you reset (connect (+) and (-) between IPM and FCM swap out, I believe that is what you are saying, Was that suggested by Ely?
If so, that sort of verifies the the original FCM (and other modules) were reset after changing the IPM and that did not fix your problem THEN replacing the FCM and rebooting the system did fix your problems.

I believe that the IPM is simply a fuse and relay receptacle box that has printed circuit 'wiring' out to the pins on the various connectors. The FCM is a computer controlled switching manager that activates some of those relays and circuits at the fuse box. Later on in generations they incorporated both of those systems and created the TIPM (Totally Integrated Power Module)

 

The 2004 IPM does have a couple soldered relays on the board, but its mainly a connection network via the circuit board. The typical failure is that the traces on the printed circuit board corrode and the circuit goes open. I've soldered wires on to bridge the open before on failed boards, but I prefer to get a good used board. This isn't really a problem MoPar should have, the board could have a thicker coating so that doesn't happen anymore. Also the pins can corrode and the easiest way to clean them is to open up the box clam shell.... Who ever decided to place the ipm in the fenderwell within mud splashing of the wheels should reconsider their career decisions. I spray that area with silicon spray to keep it dry.

I had to hot wire a TIPM from a 2011 GrandCaravan... The fuel pump relay is soldered onto the board on that model. The relay is about $5 and I could have fixed it pretty quickly, but we had the lifetime warranty on the van and I didn't want to void it.

I haven't opened up a FCM, so I can't talk to what is in that box.

 

I connected the positive and negative battery cables to each other after removing them from the battery. I did this for both the IPM replacement and the FCM replacement, so I did it twice. The cables remained connected to each other while I was working on the IPM and again when I was working on the FCM.
After the installation of the IPM, I performed a "soft reset" according to the installation video from Mak's TIPM Rebuilders. I'm not sure if it was necessary for my 2005, but I did it anyway. After the installation of the FCM, I performed the "soft reset" again, although no instructions came with the FCM. The "soft reset" was accomplished by reconnecting the battery cables to the battery, putting the key in the ignition and turning it to the "On" position. I was instructed not to crank the engine at this time. With the key in the ignition and in the "On" position, I waited 120 seconds, removed the key from the ignition and exited the truck (I think this step is only required for newer vehicles but, again, I did it anyway). I waited about a minute before re-entering the truck and on the second occasion, I started the engine.
As noted previously, after replacing the IPM only, there was no change to any of the symptoms I was experiencing. After replacing the FCM, doing the same steps I used to replace the IPM in the same exact order (attaching the battery cables together, then performing the "soft reset"), all the symptoms I was experiencing, including the right headlight incorrectly being noted as "Lamp Out", were all resolved.
I hope this clarifies the steps I took to resolve the issues I was having. Thus far, everything is working normally.

 

Great, thank you for the detailed explation.
Cheers!