So good news valve did not hit. And thats about all the good news i have... it now idles... still have p0108... map reading is 4.4v i know this is wrong. Could a back fire have messed up the sensor? Long term fuel trim at idle is -32% Vacuum is stable at 15 inches. (Might be a little better gauge is not very accurate) Every so often map will read .28v and then the truck runs fine... i know think i may have cause an open circuit? I luv dodge but man its one thing after the other on this thi

 

Maybe a vacuum leak somewhere? If there is a little elbow, or line of any type between the map, and its vacuum source, have a close look at that. Depending on how much the sensors cost, may not hurt to replace it, and see if anything changes. It's *possible* a backfire may have damaged it.... but, not sure what they look like on the inside.

 

Yeah there's nothing in between it goes straight to the manifold I'm following the repair manual it says to short K1 to K4 which is ground to signal to PCM and I get no change in voltage I'm thinking maybe when I did the repair I broke a wire somewhere or pinch the wire I don't know I'm going to have to check it with the voltmeter but unfortunately I'm going to have to wait till I go to work on Monday to get it and it's supposed to be raining all next week so most likely won't be able to finalize this thing but I think I'm down to open circuit at this point which would kind of make sense with the intermittent issue.

since I'm getting the same voltage plugged in or unplugged at this point I have not gotten .28 volt anymore

 

I found it, the connector inline has a ziptie securing tab is broken... no more map fault i will have to figure out a better way to secure it. i do have a rough idle. do these relearn? im afraid to do it thtough the scan tool i have since last time it would not relearn... ended up with a new ecm...

 

You should be able to find a new pigtail, and just replace the connector.....

Once that is fixed, it wouldn't hurt to reset the computer, and let it relearn how to run the engine. If you still have a rough idle at that point, time to start investigating deeper.

 

thanks I will definitely look into the pigtail I drove it around and idle stabalized. Its running great. Over the next few months I will replace all the valve springs. And do a desludge on the motor. It's a Lil dirtier than I would like. Hoping to smog it tomorrow. Next project will be a differential mine is noisy since I bought it but it also had broken leaf springs so I assume they overloaded it.. maybe bent the axle.

I wanted a project car but I guess it will be a project truck lol.

 

OK... so i haven't been able to fid the pigtail but i have a new fault... p0135, truck runs great no more p0108, i get 6.9v to b1s1 O2 sensor while unplugged, when i plug it in it goes to .1v, rear o2 sensor is at battery voltage, i replaced the o2 sensor no change, performed overlay and found wiring diagram in all data is incorrect, pin 1 and 2 are the heater circuits on both front and rear o2 sensors, but all data states 2 and 4 i believe. either way i confirmed pin 18 connector 2 was the heater circuit, did a rough overlay no change i thing my new (to me) ECM is defective any thoughts? o and my ground is good i even added another ground since i found the ground strap broken from engine to body.

 

I think the pcm just trips a relay to power the O2 sensor heater circuit, doesn't it??

 

from what i can see that is only for the secondary o2 sensor. And only on california vehicles. 50 state cars do not have that relay. I wish it was that simple... on (atleast the 2003) the ecm provides power and ground. But I don't know the voltages it should show. Repair manual says less than 4v I got .1 volt.... but I don't think that's right. Hopefully the company I bought the ecme from will let me know more. I gave them all the specifics on the diag. Waiting on a response.

 

I would think the heater circuit should be 12 volts????? The sensor circuit is 5, and return voltage (sensor) should bounce between zero, and 1 volt.