As far as checking for a warped rotor, you'll need to do it with a run out dial. It will tell you how warped the rotor is. If it is not bad, you can have it resurfaced, however, the mateial will be thinner, heat up faster and warp just the same.

Warping comes from high heat buildup and once you add some water into the mix, the propensity to warp goes up tremendously. For instance, you just finished braking down a steep hill and your brakes are blazing hot, then you run through a puddle, sizzle, sizzle, the expansion/contraction of the metal will warp the rotors. Not immediately, but over time it will. Other causes include, a sticking caliper that allows the pad to ride on the rotor constantly, poor quality, improper break-in, etc.

Another subject is glazing, but I'll save that for another day.

Bottom line is use good quality rotors and good quality pads. Don't forget to change out your brake fluid every 2 years or so and drive a nice happy truck.

 

you should be able to get 40k miles out of a set of front pads and around 80k out of the back...if your rotors dont warp.....to check and see if its the front of back rotors that are warped, simply go about 20 mph and push in the parking brake until you feel it make contact and start to slow you. If you dont feel and surging or shacking its probably the front rotars which you should be able to feel in the pedal or steering wheel when you allpy the brakes at different speeds.

the thing with all the "expensive pads" is that they get the rotor hotter and when you hit a puddle as mentioned by doc08, they will warp over time. i seriously doubt that anyone has gone more than 20k miles on a set of rotors using semi-metallic pads...they will just plain be warped by that time, and yes you can just go get a new set of pads for free with the guarantee, but plan on getting your rotors turned and or buying new ones. and btw I dont think they stop a vehicle any faster....

just my 2 cents

 

Here's my advice and experience about brakes:

First of all, I agree with savage25xtreme about getting about 40k miles on the fronts and 80k on the rears, and the parking brake check he gives on checking if the problem is on the front or back rotors is a good test as well.

As for getting your rotors changed out on warranty, that depends on the dealer. I used to own a 2000 Dakota Sport, and my rotors warped within the first 10k miles. The dealer agreed that was premature, and replaced the first set for free. After that I got nowhere, and generally had to get them turned or replaced every 10k miles or so until I switched to better aftermarket rotors (but with the standard brake pads which wore faster but produced less heat).

Depending on how many miles you have on the truck, the dealer might say that the warping is because of your driving habits. Just for reference, in 2004, Dodge upgraded the front brakes on the Dakota to larger units, as well as bumping the minimum wheel size from 15" to 16" to allow for them to fit. I believe that the brakes on the Ram 1500 are the biggest in its class, though it is also one of the heavier 1/2 tons out there.

I have about 13,500 miles on my Ram, with no frequency in the brakes. I do have a very slight squeel when I lightly apply the brakes, but it isn't of concern.

If you can change your own oil and rotate your own tires, then you have the ability to change your own disc brakes, and it's a hell of a lot less expensive. Only thing I suggest is to buy the Ram service manual from somewhere. Otherwise you will be lucky to get out of the shop with a bill under $250 if you want to pay someone to do it. If you buy the parts yourself you'll save the $150 to $200 in labor, and FEEL MORE LIKE A MAN! I had a buddy show me how to do it once, and I've easily handled it myself since (and I'm not a mechanic). Drum brakes are a pain in the keister, but fortunately we have four wheel discs.

 

Or download it from here.

 

osteodoc08: In total honesty, I didn't know if it was permissible to post that link on here, so I reworded my original post.

But yes, that would work, too.

 

They offer it for free and there is no secret about it. I do try to refrain from directly advertising another Dodge site. If nothing, I saved a DF member from purchasing one of the illegally copied discs on E-Bay.

 

great post doc, I already DLed it and burned it to a CD to take home with me....do you guys know if there is a link like that for the Dorf trucks.....sorry to ask...and sorry for the post jacking

 

I have no problems changing out the rotors and pads myself....thing is.....I really dont want to bother on a 1-year old 40k vehicle!
Its a matter of principal....+ I figured I would have the truck checked out at the same time.

Anyways....perhaps I will just buy a set of new front rotors and all new pads. What rotors are you guyz using and what do you recommend??? and where are you getting good prices from!!!

I could do the install in one morning easily while I change my oil (going to switch from mobil 1 to the new mobil 1 extended performance)

 

I had 30K when I had to get to front pads and new front rotors, they where warped and I had to buy then, I think they where $80 a pop from the dealer.

 

I had my brakes done YESTERDAY at Pep-Boys. I opted for the ceramic Pro-Stop brand (pep-boys owns it I believe) and had the rotars turned. I had no warpage and I never have either. I changed the brakes when I FELT them go (after slowing from highway speeds to a stop slowly I felt a slight grind) not when they made a noise. Total price $314 minus a $40 rebate from pep-boys. Oh yea, I have exactly 57,411 miles on the original brakes. Pretty fricken good in my opinion. -Kevin