Hey all. I'm a newb to the Forum. Got my 1st Dodge truck (also have 2 Avengers) a few weeks ago. Its a 2004 Ram 1500 5.7L hemi that I bought for $1,000.

Before I get into the issues I'm having trouble with, I found this part dangling from under the dash close to where the gas peddle is, connected to a wiring harness that runs up and feeds through the frame at the e-brake, probably to pcm. No idea what this is or where it goes...



Any info would be appreciated.

Now the main issue... the truck was misfiring when I first looked at it. Code reader said P0302 and the boot on the ignition coil looked cracked, so I bought the truck, replaced the coil on #2 and drove it home. Still had the misfire.

Replaced all spark plugs, cleaned the throttle body, still had the misfire.

Code changed to a fault in bank 2 O2 sensor. Changed both O2 sensors on bank 2. Still has the misfire.

Now the code reads P2296 on scan tool. When I check the codes on the truck itself, it reads: c code, 3d 01, aa 12, ab 12. Not sure what the c codes mean, but I know the P2296 is for the APPS. I just don't want to keep throwing parts at it. The truck has a pretty rough miss at idle, rpms fluctuate between about 400-700 and interior lights brighten and dim with the surges in rpms. When it's over about 1000 rpms, the misfire almost completely goes away. It drives down the road very nicely until I have to stop. Then when I hit the gas again, it hesitates, the belt gives a little squeal, then surges forward.

I really like the truck, so I'd rather not give up on it. I could use any help I can get.

Thanks!!!

 

An actuator of some sort. Probably for the HVAC system.

Sounds like a vacuum leak.

Also, O2 sensor brand matters.... Most parts stores sell bosch sensors, which these trucks really don't play nice with.

 

That was my first thought, blend door actuator or something. Then I thought, due to its location and the issues I have, maybe it could be some sort of TPS or braking sensor.

Honestly, not sure what brand O2 sensors I got. I'll have to check, but wouldn't it have made some sort of difference with generic vs. name brand?

 

Odd it drives down the road fine. That's your shift interlock solenoid.

 

🤯🤯🤯 That looks like the mystery part, but.... how?!?! I haven't had any shifting problems, shifts from park to drive like you'd expect and shifts normally while driving. I haven't tried moving the selector out of park without the key, or into park with ignition on. The only difference is the toothy mechanism, but the pin operates in the same manner. What is the possibility that someone "by-passed" or rigged something rather than replace it? Would this cause any of the symptoms I'm having, or is this just another issue altogether?

 

Normally you'd have to press the brake to allow it to shift out of park. Try shifting it out of park (engine off) without pressing the brake. No this wouldn't be related to your other issues, what likely happened is someone removed it after having an issue with it.

 

Well, I don't think it's the shift interlock solenoid. Shift lever wouldn't budge without the brake pedal being depressed. Its gotta be blend door actuator or something.

If anyone has any insight into the misfire that won't freaking quit, I'd really appreciate a little guidance. If it will help, I can probably post a video tomorrow.

Thanks for taking the time to respond! It's pretty great to have experienced folks willing to answer my silly questions!

 

while its idling and missing take a can of brake clean and take some shots around the intake, upper and lower. See if you find a spot that makes the engine rev.

And that's absolutely your shift interlock solenoid.

 

Thanks, I'll check for vacuum leaks this afternoon. As a side note, my short term fuel trim is off the charts at over -30% at idle. I guess a vacuum leak could explain that, but it's the same at all 4 readings. And long term is at 0.

If it is my shift lock Solenoid, I can't seem to find where it would plug into.

 

Normally sits inside the the steering column by the base of the shifter. See that little pin that sticks out of the bottom? That's what retracts to allow you to shift out of park. You hit the brake, brake switch sends a signal to the bus, one place that signal ends up is the interlock to retract that pin. Just in case you have any more doubts about info people who know more than you have given you lol.....look familiar?: