Brake Controller
Well my truck's an automatic, but I mounted my Prodigy on the right side lower dash on the driver's side of course, right in front and a little below my knee. There is a nice recess right below the hood latch but because of the steering wheel you wouldn't be able to see the controller. I ruled out the left side, in front of my left leg, thinking that I would hit it everytime I entered or exited the truck.
Instead of starting another thread on controller mounting locations, I'll just add to this one.
I was looking for a good location to mount the brake controller where it wouldn't get in the way, and was easy to reach. I found the tray under the temp control panel works out great for the Prodigy and premade wiring harness.
I used an 1/8" drill bitwith aflex shaft on a dremel tool to drillthe four corners of the wiring pass-through, thenconnected the holes with the bit.
There is a second back wall behind the tray that also need to be cut. Make these holes just big enough to pass the connector through. Trim out a notch in the rubber tray pad and reinstall it. Fish the wires though, plug em in, and you're done. The wires reached like they were custom made for that location.
The prodigy slides snughly into place, but I put a piece of thin shim stock under the pad to help lock the controller right in there. You can pull the controller out without tools and use it in another truck easily.
You can reach all the buttons, and lever of the controller without moving yourelbow off of the arm rest. It took less than an hour, and there is still enough room left in the tray to fit three CD cases.

I was looking for a good location to mount the brake controller where it wouldn't get in the way, and was easy to reach. I found the tray under the temp control panel works out great for the Prodigy and premade wiring harness.
I used an 1/8" drill bitwith aflex shaft on a dremel tool to drillthe four corners of the wiring pass-through, thenconnected the holes with the bit.
There is a second back wall behind the tray that also need to be cut. Make these holes just big enough to pass the connector through. Trim out a notch in the rubber tray pad and reinstall it. Fish the wires though, plug em in, and you're done. The wires reached like they were custom made for that location.
The prodigy slides snughly into place, but I put a piece of thin shim stock under the pad to help lock the controller right in there. You can pull the controller out without tools and use it in another truck easily.
You can reach all the buttons, and lever of the controller without moving yourelbow off of the arm rest. It took less than an hour, and there is still enough room left in the tray to fit three CD cases.

xjmark:
That's exactly where I'm going to be installing my prodigy. It sounds like you cut the connector hole without removing the bezel from the truck? Is that correct?
You mentioned another wall behind the first one. Is there anything close behind the second wall that you have to watch out for? I don't want to drill into anything important.....
Also, what is the notch in the rubber tray pad for? Did you remove the pad to cut the notch?
Thanks, Sam
That's exactly where I'm going to be installing my prodigy. It sounds like you cut the connector hole without removing the bezel from the truck? Is that correct?
You mentioned another wall behind the first one. Is there anything close behind the second wall that you have to watch out for? I don't want to drill into anything important.....
Also, what is the notch in the rubber tray pad for? Did you remove the pad to cut the notch?
Thanks, Sam
Yup, Icut the hole withthe tray right in place. I used a dremel flex shaft since the dremel tool itself wouldn't fit in there. The 1/8" drill bit basically acted like a roto-zip cutter. Take your time, and it won't melt the plastic, and makes a decent cut.

The first "wall" you cut through is the actual tray which is black plastic. The second wall is about 3/8" behind that. Keep your bit tip as far into the plastic as is needed to cut it, and do one wall at a time. The second wall is the actual dashboard structure, and is the same color as your main dashboard. You will have at least an inch of clearance from the second wall to the heater box.
The notch in the pad is just to line up with the hole in the dashboard. I did that so when the wires rest on the vertical lip, it doesn't kink up the pad.
That pad it designed to come right out for cleaning purposes. I took the pad out before I started cutting anything.
Hope that clears things up a bit.

The first "wall" you cut through is the actual tray which is black plastic. The second wall is about 3/8" behind that. Keep your bit tip as far into the plastic as is needed to cut it, and do one wall at a time. The second wall is the actual dashboard structure, and is the same color as your main dashboard. You will have at least an inch of clearance from the second wall to the heater box.
The notch in the pad is just to line up with the hole in the dashboard. I did that so when the wires rest on the vertical lip, it doesn't kink up the pad.
That pad it designed to come right out for cleaning purposes. I took the pad out before I started cutting anything.
Hope that clears things up a bit.
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Note: I have not checked my owner's manual for this (lazy yes), just figured I'd ask.
My truck came with an electic brake "harness" (prefab harness one end, just wires the other end). Anyone know how this is used?
My truck came with an electic brake "harness" (prefab harness one end, just wires the other end). Anyone know how this is used?



