Also if you have a K & N air filter it needs to stay oiled well.

 

For anyone wanting to learn more
this oil filter study is also worth the read:

http://www.shoclub.com/lubrication-o...n-oilpart5.htm

 

I am a mechanical engineering and wanted to chime in...

My habit is to change oil and filter based on optical density. If I can't read the etchings on the dipstick through the oil, I change it. I use name brand and premium oils, Rotella 15w-40 on the four wheel vehicles, Castrol 20W-50 in the motorcycles. I personally like the AC Delco filters, where and when available, but Fram is typically available for the trucks. For the bikesI use OEM.

Here is MY theory...modern oil is designed to hold contaminants in solution, while hard bit gets trapped by the filter. I don't expect a gram of metal in a filter unless a component is failing in a big way, typically a bearing, gear tooth lifter, cam lobe, all lubrication related. Once the oil holds enough junk to turnblack, it is possible for the junk to plate itself on engine internals, such as oil passages. So by changing the oil before you can plate out contaminants (put downa layer of gunk, varnish, sludge, clog oil passages) you preclude potential engine failure.

I have never worn out an engine I bought new or rebuilt, with engines up to the quarter million mile point.

So buy good oil, cheap filters, and change it when it gets dirty...

Howard

 

Hetkind wrote� So buy good oil, cheap filters, and change it when it gets dirty...� I don’t think that is good advice to offer. Fram filters will not hold up in use on all engines and they have been known to fail on a CTD and the use of them can cause warranty problems. FYI, just because oil is dark in an engine does not mean it has to be changed. A good example is do to the new EPA crap new oil can turn dark 2 minutes after it has been installed in a diesel engine so you cannot go by color alone. Also not all brands of oil are the same color when new, as some oils are darker then others and that means they will turn darker faster then light colored oil. If you think about it, if the filter is cheap where did they cut corners to offer it at such a low price! BTW, one place where Fram cut corners was by using cardboard in their filters and cardboard will not hold up to the high oil pressure of some engines. The old saying “you get what you pay for� comes to mind when someone says to buy cheap. IMHO, I think it’s best to buy good oil and filters if you want to protect your car or trucks engine.

 

EGR valves are putting a much greater amount of soot in lube oil today.

This is especially true on the new 2007+ diesel engines that are getting super harsh pollution controls.

If you want to learn more about the latest in lube oils and filtering
do some Google searches on
"cooled EGR"
"CJ4 oil"
and 'new Rotella specifications'

A lube oil can look impressively clear
and still have a low 'TBN' or total base number
and also be contaminated with raw gasoline
that 'blew-by' the piston rings,
but with today's EGR filling the intake manifold's with soot
that is highly unlikely and most oils will quickly turn black.

 

I did some research on oil filters last year and best I could tell, they are only minimally helpful. Oil filters have bypass valves that divert oil at approx 12 psi of oil pressure which means that the oil bypasses the filter most any time you have your foot on the gas. Also, in normal driving, all of the oil in your system is circulated 3-5 times per minute, with no filtration. Oil filters are goodbut realize they areonlyfiltering at idle. I became a fan of racing filters, they don't filter as fine butdo filter more often. The choiceseemed to be either use a normal filter and get great filtration some of the time or use a racing filter and good filtration most of the time. Glad to hear if someone has additional info.

 

There is a misunderstanding here about the pressure that the bypass valve opens at.

Ford and Chrysler filters begin bypassing at 'differential' pressure between 9 and 12 psi.

This means if your oil pressure is 60 psi on the dash gauge, and 75 psi on the inlet to the oil pressure, then the 'differential' pressure is 75-60=15 and the oil filter bypass will open slightly and allow some, but not all the oil to bypass the filter.

However, most of the time this does not happen.

Most of the time with a oil filter that is not been on more than 30,000 miles the differential pressure is much less than 10 psi.

A new clean filter will usually only have about 3 psi of differential pressure across it, so the filter has to become quite dirty for this initial pressure to go up three to four times higher.

Big expensive engines, like natural gas compressor engines and diesels in ships nearly always have two oil pressure gauges:
one gauge before the filter
and one gauge after,
so that you can look and calculate the differential pressure and know when to change the filter.

 

Interesting view points/opinions.....And alot of it appears to be knowledged base....I haven't heard anyone mention the K&N oil filters and their (Anti-Drain back valves) are they any good? Also, someone mentioned Racing Oil Filters. Are they any good? what are the advantages/disadvantages to using a Racing Oil filters? Come on fella's, chime in with your opinions.

 

Already posted this, man people dont read well. But I guess the more repeats the better.

 

Already read that particular oil filter study...It appears to be incomplete, and outdated.... I didn't see oil filters, like K&N listed.
Also i don't believe there was a mention of Racing Oil Filters..