Hello all. Please help I cant figure out for the life of me i have been all over on forums and coming up with possible solutions that have not fixed my problem. ok so I just installed a set of 55watt dual beam hi/low xenon HID kit in my 2006 Ram 1500 quad cab. When i turn them on with my switch the work great hi and low. but when i start my truck they blink 4 times then shut down and will not turn back on untill power is reset. Now ive tried the antiflicker capacitors that didnt change a thing. also i have been told a crazy relay wiring is supposed to work but i do not have pics other than some crazy explanations of how to that are not clear and i certainly do not want to back feed power and ruin my new kit. so im looking for a for sure fix with exact parts and hopefully pics or very detailed step by step fix. i will appriciate all the help i can get with this ive spent hours in the garage and online trying to find a solution that works to take care of my issue. thank you for you inputs and advice. Please help me if you have had this problem befor and know how to remedy it with out cuting the stock harness

 

i cant help without cutting the harness but mine would flicker and sometimes not even want to turn on and i spliced in the resistors and it took care of the problem, ill try and get a picture tomorrow of the relays if someone doesnt post one till then

 

ok Great thank you very much i would love to see a pic whatever might help my situation right now im trying to do the math for the right resistor to splice in

 

Here are some of mine

 

weedahoe is exactly right.
You need to simulate the resistance created by the stock headlight bulbs.
HID's do not have this resistance, therefore the PCM on the truck tries to look/hunt for the head lights (the strobing effect), cant find any due to a lack/no resistance, then shuts them down as a protection.
Putting high wattage resistors of a certain value (can't remember value weedahoe might help here) causes a load for the PCM to see and the lights fire right on up.
FYI this resistor mod also cures the "lamp out" light problem
Hope this helps?
Al.

 

i figured he would beat me too it, but yeah his is the same setup as mine "minus the heat shields" and it solved the problem

 

If I am not mistaken they are 20w 8 ohm resistors

Radio Shack PN 271-120

cost 2.50 each

Dont be surprised if your RS only has 2 in stock (if any at all)

 

[quote=weedahoe;1844387]Here are some of mine


say in that 3rd pic is that the plug in for the side that isn't plugged into anything you know the stock harness part. then so the other side you put the resistor on the plug in for the stock harness before it plugs into the ballasts harness then right and the 8 ohm 20 watts were ok then they didnt get to hot or did you mount them to something. im affraid of them melting if the touch plastic or other wires did you mount them to the frame. thanks for the help greatly appreciate it.

 

ok i think i got it so the first pic is the blue and white wires are for the hid harness and the orange i take it is ground wire is this correct and you are grounding back into the ground for the head lights normal stock harness ground not straight to the chassis.

 

It depends on the kit you have. Mine are from Chad and thats how he built his. The 1st and 2nd pic are the same harness and went to the drivers side. Because of how his relay is buit, the 3rd pics harness did not need to be wired to a ballast as it gets power and switched to hi beam through the relay. That harness went on the pass side and simply plugged into the pass side OEM headlight socket and is used only to trick the trucks computer into thinking there is a bulb there.

There are 2 resistors per side and one is for the low beam and one is for the high beam. A said before, these simulate the natural resistance given by the filament in a halogen bulb which is constantly detected and measured by the trucks PCM to verified a working bulb is present. Thats why this gets rid of the flicker/strobing and/or Lamp Out on the dash.

There was some one else that got some small aluminum channel and made heat sinks for his resistors. Or you could strap them to the frame to keep them secure and out of the way. Mine hang loose but are zip tied out of the way for neatness and never have caused any issues.

The Orange wire is your common wire. It might also go back to ground but I have never hooked my meter to it and tested it honestly. I do know it goes back to my ballasts and my ballasts are grounded to my frame as well as screwed to my frame.

Hope this helps