is these cancelers the same as the LOAD RESISTOR, and does it tap into the wire between the ballast & light as well, thats what they gave me with my kit for my 03 ram

 

here is a number to a company that sells the resistor you are needing, i got one with my sportiva hid kit for my ram 1500, 909-939-4234, good luck,,

 

I've been using the DDM Tuning error correctors for a couple years now on my HID's, and they work flawless at $15.00 a pair.

http://http://www.ddmtuning.com/Prod...minator-3-PAIR

 

Would this still be a problem if someone purchased 55w HIDs instead of 35w?

 

In my opinion 55 watt lights are just too damn bright for a reflector based headlight, if you were running projector lights there wouldn't be a problem as the light is projected through a focused lens. The reflectors in our trucks and most cars can't direct all that light from a 55 watt setup and it becomes glare to oncoming cars and a reason for the cops to pull you over and at least give you an equipment violation citation for your lights unless they can find other things to bust you on - front tinted windows, too loud exhaust, speeding, driving while intoxicated, etc.

 

Im upgrading to Go Recon headlights, so 55W HIDs should fix the HID issue and not be too bright for the projectors.

 

Thread revival here guys. My budy's '09 with quad lights has been driving me crazy with the damn TIPM and load resistors. I purchased a 35w 4500 H10 kit with cancelers that were suppose to give the TIPM the proper load. Well, they didn't work that well. Sometime the lights work, sometimes they don't. The TIPM stores codes for the headlight drivers. What I figuired out is the TIPM sends a pulse-width modulated signal out to the lamps and looks for a certain amperage on a return circuit. So unless you have some type of device that will draw 55 watts and send back 3.5amps to the TIPM (the return wire is the same for high and low beam).

I said "screw this" and wired a relay harness to the license plate lamp circuit (I tapped into it by the TIPM under the hood) to switch the relay on and off, and went directly to battery for the power to the balasts. The lights work flawlessly now, the only down side is the low beams are powered up anytime the parking lamps are on. He runs his headlamps on "Auto" all the time so he doesn't really care. This is much more reliable than trying to "fake out" the "Totally Insane Power Module" to see good signal return.

My $.02.

 

All you need is capacitors. One on each side. They'll fool the ECU into seeing the required wattage/resistance and stop the ECU fail safe from trying to shut the system down. I would still recommend using the battery powered relays in conjunction with the capacitors. Which you can get for $1 a piece at radio shack. I still really don't understand why HID sets are being sold without them to anyone with a 09+ RAM.


From my understanding it's not a guarantee that having a 55W set would cure the issue.

 

I don't see why you'd go to so much effort for these "HID's"...I'd like to shoot most people around here that have the fake HID's. On the bright side, (pun intended) they give me something to aim for........

 

Depends.

HID kits that replace factory halogens have two types. One is just a straight up bulb to replace single mode (single filament) bulbs. The other has a bulb that's within a small metal housing and the bulb shifts slightly forward and back to alter the beam output (the metal housing blocks some, but not all light). This is what allows a HID bulb (which just puts out light and doesn't offer different filaments) to have a high and low function on vehicles that need it.

Any time it's a high-low type HID setup, there's a control unit. This control unit detects that you have switched from low beams to high beams and will shift the bulbs. However, there is always a built-in relay in these types. With a relay, you use a small current source to open a circuit that supports higher current sources. Basically, your headlight plug is the small source and it opens up a circuit straight from the battery to your headlights. So if your car is trying to detect the load on your bulbs it'll see a very small load and think something is wrong.

The single function bulbs typically do not come with a relay. You need to buy them separately. So it is possible for the power to come straight out of the headlight harness, and it may provide the proper amount of load.

I'm not sure how the recon headlights work. I think they are a projectors? Projectors use a single bulb that's always lit and the projector adjusts the light output independently, so if you got HIDs without a relay harness, it is possible it would work.