You are correct. It is called a line out converter.

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp;jsessionid=27BF34890FAAF9E0EBF2E2899C7 42096.bbolsp-app04-32?_dyncharset=ISO-8859-1&_dynSessConf=-2722811166954964496&id=pcat17071&type=page&st=line +out+converter&sc=Global&cp=1&nrp=15&sp=&qp=&list= n&iht=y&usc=All+Categories&ks=960

There are other choices out there, this is just an example.

 

There are alternatives to the expensive Dynamat and work as well if not better. I did the complete interior of my 72 chevy pickup including inside the doors behind gas tank on gas tank floor, roof,on the floor and insidedoors I used the heavier type that can even be used under the hood if you want and on the roof and areas that really didn't need it I used the thinner type. Mine was called FATMAT, Cost my 150 to do the whole truck and I mean everywhere, i used it doubledwith the thick stuff and then another layer of the thin stuff cuz I had so much left on the firewall....quieter than the original junk.

 

That is exactly what I bought! FATMAT, glad to hear a good review on it.

 

Hey, no prob I talked to yellowdetonator and he showed a product for $40 that taps into the factory system and gives red/whites. I was just trying to save money, but seems like the easiest and probably best way is to just scoop out the mula.

 

Nice work Lee, did mine a little different:

Wanted to keep my oem head unit with Sirrius and EVIC readouts if it sounded good.

Went to Short Circuit City's going out a business sale and bought two Polk 6x9 3ways (pretty high efficiency) at 50% off MSRP and found them too deep for the front doors - door panel stuck out on the mid and tweets so I tried them in the back and they fit perfect, no front or rear interference. Went back shopping for a shallower speakers and ended up with Eclipse 6x9 3 ways which fit the doors without spacers etc. The Polks have a little more bass and the Eclipses have a little more mid and highs. Overall both are slightly more efficient than the stock speakers, still balanced and sound way better than the stock whizzer cone jobberdoos.

Now that I found out about FatMat, I'll go back in with larger gauge speaker wires and install some FatMat and install some shallow sub(s)under my front seat(s) with their own amp(s). I'll block the very lows to the 6x9s to make life easy on the oem stock amp output and new speakers then filter the very bottom end into the sub amp with it's trimmers and remote volume control. Should be good enough for the cab, if not then plan B.

Since I'm making my TRX4 into a custom enclosed dirt bike hauler in back, I'll be removing my rear QC's rear seat to enlarge the stock storage area with a hinged plywood cover for coolers, etc to sit on. An extra deep cycle battery is going to be frame mounted in a marine box up underneath so I have lot of battery when camping. Probably going to mount my near new Alpine head unit and amp in the back to power up my MTX studio monitors speakers set outside towards the fire,horse shoe pit etc. Next might be a used LCD flat panel hooked up to my dvd player and stereo....

 

Please let me clarify what the PAC AOEM CHR-3 does and why I chose to use it.
It DOES NOT TAP into any wires. It PLUGS DIRECTLY into my MYGIG and the factory harness in turn plugs into the AOEM CHR-3. I did not have to cut or splice any wires whatsoever. It is exactly what Ryan needs to add his amp and sub(s) to his factory setup. His stock speakers will continue to play off the deck and he will have 4 RCA preouts to use with his Kenwood amp.

This is what it looks like. Be sure to order AOEM CHR-3 That is the correct part for the 09 Rams. It will work with RES REN RER.
One seller has them for $34.99. It works awesomely and made the job easy. Other companies have a similr product but they cost upwards of $130.00!
Ryan get you one and get the truck thumping!!
Derrill (aka 2009detonateryellow)

 

i used fat mat on my dakota... it is real easy to work with and does a decent job

 

Thanks yellow! I ordered that today. Now I got everything I need on the way. I'll take my time and install my parts next week.. Appreciate all your guys help. I am going to try it without a capacitor and see if I need it. I just like a little thump, i don't turn it way up to make the windows rattle and all, so I should be fine. If not, seems easy enough to wire one in.

I bought 50ftx18" roll of fat mat how far do you guys think that will get me? I'd like to do the doors, the rear wall (doubled up), and the entire floor....