LOL Sorry but I just found this comical
"It's amazing how much dust and stuff I find inside every time I take it apart.

Best regards,
Dusty"

 

This applies only to Dodge keys that have touch sense printed circuit boards. My 07 has this, but my 05 has a mechanical contact switches soldered to the board.

There is a clear plastic membrane in the housing that has a seam that runs almost dead center across the button (Housing Side) for unlock. This seam became separated on mine, which I theorized changed the capacitance, so I trimmed this with a pair of miniature diagonal pliers to match as best I could, the cutout in this clear plastic membrane as it appears on the lock side (a circular cutout) of the key housing, and it works like it did when it was new.

Hope this helps some with this issue - the key is expensive and this design bug I feel confident would be in any replacement, so the odds of it happening again seems to be just as good.

 

After several years, the mechanism can wear down a bit, causing the thumb press switch to fail to activate the Lock, Unlock, Trunk, and Remote Ignition. Usually, the problems begins with the thumb switches used most often - the lock/unlock.

There is a fix for this. The problem is between the rubber thumb press and the contact inside. If you open the fob (gently) and peel back the rubber (gently), you can see how the thumb press switch hits the metal contact when it is pressed, or at least that's what it is supposed to do. Over time the mechanism gets worn and a good contact is not made when you press on it.

So, I placed a small strip of aluminum foil on top of the metal contact inside which decreased the space between the thumb switch and the contact. I put it back together and the foil makes great contact to operate everything again. I had to play around with the thickness of the foil a bit to get it to work properly.

The reason I went to all this trouble was because the fob costs $165 plus $60 to have it programmed. My piece of foil couldn't have cost a penny.

Google and YouTube came to the rescue again!

Jim

 

After several years, the mechanism can wear down a bit, causing the thumb press switch to fail to activate the Lock, Unlock, Trunk, and Remote Ignition. Usually, the problems begins with the thumb switches used most often - the lock/unlock.

There is a fix for this. The problem is between the rubber thumb press and the contact inside. If you open the fob (gently) and peel back the rubber (gently), you can see how the thumb press switch hits the metal contact when it is pressed, or at least that's what it is supposed to do. Over time the mechanism gets worn and a good contact is not made when you press on it.

So, I placed a small strip of aluminum foil on top of the metal contact inside which decreased the space between the thumb switch and the contact. I put it back together and the foil makes great contact to operate everything again. I had to play around with the thickness of the foil a bit to get it to work properly.

The reason I went to all this trouble was because the fob costs $165 plus $60 to have it programmed. My piece of foil couldn't have cost a penny.

Google and YouTube came to the rescue again!

Jim

 

Hi Jim. I actually made one of those videos on youtube for this problem but it only solves the problem for some and may be just a temporary fix .

My 2009 Ram 1500 laramie. had been having remote start problems as well as door lock and unlock was very hit and miss for about a year and in this time the winter season rolled through. My heated wheel and seats no longer worked even though it was -30 celcius and the evic was set to comfort settings.

I finally did something about the 4 button remote this week, bought a new one from Amazon and went to Dodge to have it programmed. WOW, It hasn't started this good in two years and now my comfort settings work again. turns out the transmitter in the FOBIK was so weak that it would not send the proper signal anymore no matter if I was 1 foot away when I used the auto start. Even taking it apart and shorting the contacts was now hit and miss.

Of note I have taken both my foiks apart dozens of times and was always able to rig up something inside to make good contact again and get me another couple months.

It seems it was the transmitter all along and the contacts were just an underlying problem.

Check out my videos under bobbleheaderman ram remote part 1-4. Paid $55 for fobik on Amazon and $85 for programming Canadian $. It hurt to spen that kind of money but man I am so happy now that I don't have to stand outside my truck pressing the button over and over. It was costing me a fortune in batteries alone,LOL

 

After trying all of the fixes in this forum for my Dodge Magnum wireless key fob not working, I discovered after closely inspecting the circuit board inside the fob that the battery connection to the board was broken. As a temporary fix I used a piece of tape over the top of the battery holding it down to the board making sure it was making connection to the board. I will probably try a small drop of solder at a later time. However the tape worked, making the battery connection to the circuit board for now and the wireless key fob is working again. What I have learned from all of this that there seems to be several issues that can cause a wireless key fob not to work. A piece of tape (strip of cloth gaffers tape) fixed mine without having to spend over $100 for a new one. I also did put a piece of aluminum foil on top of the battery to make a stronger connection to the little piece of metal clip that connects the positive side of the battery.