Clay Bar Results on Truck today.
#11
08-23-2009, 09:35 PM
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 235
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There's about 1000 write ups on how to claybar as part of your detailing process, so I won't go overboard here. Everyone should claybar their new vehicles, I found mine very much so covered with fallout after taking delivery (mostly on the hood and roof). Some people have better eye's for this sort of thing, but nearly 100% (and I would say the full 100% of these trucks) get crap on the paint between the time they come out of the paint booth, and when you drive it home.
When claying you can actually hear the small bits of grit, and after working an area you should see the brownish/blackish material come up from the paint and onto the clay at which point you rework the clay to reveal new and keep going. Lubrication is key, you should never rub or drag the clay on anything dry, there is also no need for pressure or scrubbing. The surface just needs to be wet to allow the clay to glide, it quite literally needs to be wet everywhere that your clay touches with ether a soapy mist or quick detail. This is one of the reasons you work a small area at a time.
Spray, clay, wipedown and then look/feel. Repeat as necessary and then move onto the next area. I would use a lighter polish unless it looks like your dealership washed it with sand paper, test in a small area and if you arn't seeing the results you want move to a more abbrasive polish. Once polished seal with an acrylic sealant or wax or both (wax over sealant). I've used both optimum and klasse products, the klasse is a fair bit harder to work with, but I find it does last longer. I recommend at least 2 coats sealant, and 2 coats wax especially on darker colors (with 24 hours between coats if you have the means and patience). This should give you a good 6 mo coverage.
For more info and detailed write ups, check out http://www.detailersdomain.com/
I also get a lot of supply's through http://www.autogeek.net
They're fast, accurate, reasonably priced and they're in FL, so ground shipping is like next day for me.
They have some how-to video's as well on their site.
^ autopia is good too, I like larger bars, and cutting them in usable sizes that if i drop I don't mind throwing out. Havn't dropped any in a while though. btw, used clay that gets too dirty for paint can be retired to clean glass.
When claying you can actually hear the small bits of grit, and after working an area you should see the brownish/blackish material come up from the paint and onto the clay at which point you rework the clay to reveal new and keep going. Lubrication is key, you should never rub or drag the clay on anything dry, there is also no need for pressure or scrubbing. The surface just needs to be wet to allow the clay to glide, it quite literally needs to be wet everywhere that your clay touches with ether a soapy mist or quick detail. This is one of the reasons you work a small area at a time.
Spray, clay, wipedown and then look/feel. Repeat as necessary and then move onto the next area. I would use a lighter polish unless it looks like your dealership washed it with sand paper, test in a small area and if you arn't seeing the results you want move to a more abbrasive polish. Once polished seal with an acrylic sealant or wax or both (wax over sealant). I've used both optimum and klasse products, the klasse is a fair bit harder to work with, but I find it does last longer. I recommend at least 2 coats sealant, and 2 coats wax especially on darker colors (with 24 hours between coats if you have the means and patience). This should give you a good 6 mo coverage.
For more info and detailed write ups, check out http://www.detailersdomain.com/
I also get a lot of supply's through http://www.autogeek.net
They're fast, accurate, reasonably priced and they're in FL, so ground shipping is like next day for me.
They have some how-to video's as well on their site.
^ autopia is good too, I like larger bars, and cutting them in usable sizes that if i drop I don't mind throwing out. Havn't dropped any in a while though. btw, used clay that gets too dirty for paint can be retired to clean glass.
