Clay Bar Results on Truck today.
#1
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Hey Everyone I used that Turlte Wax Ice Clay Bar Kit today and my results are mixed. 1. I've never used a clay bar anything on any of my vehicle's. I read the directions and what I found is that it dose feel softer I guess you'd say. I never had any real bad paint spots like same of you guys have had, but then again the Oklahoma heat was high today even with a fan going in the garage out of direct sunlight I may have been seeing things lol. Wife said it looked different (better). I just wasn't sure as to how much to spray, did i use to much or not enough. But like I said it feels softer to me.
#2
#4
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I found that Ice does not work that well. I use a solid clay bar on my truck's once every 8 months or so. A solid clay bar will make your truck smooth as glass when you rub your hand over it. I use a tissue to rub over the paint to test for any left over particles on the surface of the paint. If I find them I simply go over that area with the clay bar to touch up. After all is done I apply Liquid Glass and I am good to go for a year but prefer to redo all steps every 8 months. I have a 1990 mustang (black) that looks like new and has no swirls or any marks in the paint all due to a Clay Bar and Liquid Ice.
#6
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They all work good as long as they are not made by Ronco or that once a year 52 car wash baloney. A reall nice polish for after the claybar is a product the name escapes me, it's blue and smells like coconut, real nice shine, like 30 bucks a bottle aha I remembered Zymol. Awesome stuff. But the best bang for the buck in the ice wax, you can do it anywhere, in the sun and it wipes off rubber and stuff.
#7
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#8
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If you want to make the job easy and fast get the largest clay bar you can find. The Mothers and MeGuires bars are very small. Here is this place I buy my clay & spray at, the bars are the size of a large bar of soap http://www.autopia-carcare.com/detailingclay.html
#9
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There's about 1000 write ups on how to claybar as part of your detailing process, so I won't go overboard here. Everyone should claybar their new vehicles, I found mine very much so covered with fallout after taking delivery (mostly on the hood and roof). Some people have better eye's for this sort of thing, but nearly 100% (and I would say the full 100% of these trucks) get crap on the paint between the time they come out of the paint booth, and when you drive it home.
When claying you can actually hear the small bits of grit, and after working an area you should see the brownish/blackish material come up from the paint and onto the clay at which point you rework the clay to reveal new and keep going. Lubrication is key, you should never rub or drag the clay on anything dry, there is also no need for pressure or scrubbing. The surface just needs to be wet to allow the clay to glide, it quite literally needs to be wet everywhere that your clay touches with ether a soapy mist or quick detail. This is one of the reasons you work a small area at a time.
Spray, clay, wipedown and then look/feel. Repeat as necessary and then move onto the next area. I would use a lighter polish unless it looks like your dealership washed it with sand paper, test in a small area and if you arn't seeing the results you want move to a more abbrasive polish. Once polished seal with an acrylic sealant or wax or both (wax over sealant). I've used both optimum and klasse products, the klasse is a fair bit harder to work with, but I find it does last longer. I recommend at least 2 coats sealant, and 2 coats wax especially on darker colors (with 24 hours between coats if you have the means and patience). This should give you a good 6 mo coverage.
For more info and detailed write ups, check out http://www.detailersdomain.com/
I also get a lot of supply's through http://www.autogeek.net
They're fast, accurate, reasonably priced and they're in FL, so ground shipping is like next day for me.
They have some how-to video's as well on their site.
^ autopia is good too, I like larger bars, and cutting them in usable sizes that if i drop I don't mind throwing out. Havn't dropped any in a while though. btw, used clay that gets too dirty for paint can be retired to clean glass.
When claying you can actually hear the small bits of grit, and after working an area you should see the brownish/blackish material come up from the paint and onto the clay at which point you rework the clay to reveal new and keep going. Lubrication is key, you should never rub or drag the clay on anything dry, there is also no need for pressure or scrubbing. The surface just needs to be wet to allow the clay to glide, it quite literally needs to be wet everywhere that your clay touches with ether a soapy mist or quick detail. This is one of the reasons you work a small area at a time.
Spray, clay, wipedown and then look/feel. Repeat as necessary and then move onto the next area. I would use a lighter polish unless it looks like your dealership washed it with sand paper, test in a small area and if you arn't seeing the results you want move to a more abbrasive polish. Once polished seal with an acrylic sealant or wax or both (wax over sealant). I've used both optimum and klasse products, the klasse is a fair bit harder to work with, but I find it does last longer. I recommend at least 2 coats sealant, and 2 coats wax especially on darker colors (with 24 hours between coats if you have the means and patience). This should give you a good 6 mo coverage.
For more info and detailed write ups, check out http://www.detailersdomain.com/
I also get a lot of supply's through http://www.autogeek.net
They're fast, accurate, reasonably priced and they're in FL, so ground shipping is like next day for me.
They have some how-to video's as well on their site.
^ autopia is good too, I like larger bars, and cutting them in usable sizes that if i drop I don't mind throwing out. Havn't dropped any in a while though. btw, used clay that gets too dirty for paint can be retired to clean glass.
Last edited by BOFslime; 08-23-2009 at 08:17 PM.
#10