both would be nice to compare the average.
thx

 

Well it depends on where you get your parts, mine turned out costing more due to either a botched install or bad gears so it cost a lot more than it should have. The most important thing is to find an experienced shop that does differential work regularly like a 4 wheel drive shop. You can get gears from $200-300, master install $100, DTT $525, then $300-400 in labor for the install, so total of $1125 at the cheapest for just the rear w/ the above parts prices. Here is a quote from War Horse on his cost w/ a new R/T torque converter installed also

 

I dunno, the tach wont change naturally but the relationship between rpm and mph will most definately change if the PCM uses both, Granted going from a 3.92 to 4.10 probably wont be that obvious. But I have done dozens of corvettes and they use the differential output shaft for the speedo so a gear swap doesnt affect the speedo as well but the shift points need to be modified since GM uses both rpm and mph to determine when to shift.

Say a WOT 1-2 upshift is supposed to occur at 5500rpm and 35mph, when you change the rear the shift will no longer be at 5500rpm at 35mph. Like I said I dont know what the Dodges use to do its shift points, if its based on mph/rpm or a combination of the two like GM.

I'm no Dodge computer expert, just throwing it out there..

 

Why a new torque convertor to get rid of this controlling pos that is there? LOL

 

I would think throttle position and rpm would be much more important than MPH in the ECM for shifting. I doubt seriously if the ECM knows what gear ratio you have as far as firmware and programming is concerned. There is a patient of mine that owns a rear end and gear specialty business that I could ask. The only problem is that they do much more heavy duty trucks like tractors rather than the newest gen of pickups.

 

Like I said earlier it's the same tranny and rear as the 3rd gen and plenty of guys have regeared their 3rd gens and had no issues. You are all welcome to go over to the 3rd gen section and ask, but I'm sure War Horse will let you guys know soon enough.

 

Alright, everything is in and working like a charm. Shift points are normal and seem to shift around the same time they did before. Maybe a slight change, but it seems the same to my untrained eye and butt. I'm still in the initial break in phase, so no hammering it yet. I've got to make three more 30 minute runs and then let it cool in between for an hour.

As for the speedo, the thing is still dead on. 65 seems like 65 compared to the other traffic. Next run I plan on taking my Garmin out and see what it says I'm doing while running 65. The Garmin isn't 100% accurate, but it'll at least get me in the ballpark. Only problem so far is the ESP/BAS light is on. I talked with my Dodge service buddy and he said that the sensor for it is just like the tire pressure sensors, it'll take a few runs and possibly even a day or so before it resets.

The price out the door was $1325.65. The R/T torque converter just didn't pan out. The shop ordered an R/T converter, but what showed up seemed to match what was already in my Sport. There might have been a little confusion between the dealership and the shop I used, so rather than spending the cash to put it in, I had them send it back and we'll tackle that project another day after some more research.

 

The other break in runs went great. The Garmin stayed pretty close to what the speedo said the entire time, so I'm confident that nothing changed there. I tried at one point running it in Tow/Haul mode. Man, the mode's downshifts as you decelerate are really noticeable now. Seems like it'll really help with slowing down things as you pull a load.

The ESP/BAS light is still on. Hopefully it'll go out as I drive to and from work tomorrow. I removed the Neg battery cable for an hour between runs, and that didn't do a thing.