The final answer on if the factory brake controller works on a 2010
Working at an easy pace, double checking wires and connections with a multimeter, etc, 2 to 3 hours on a Saturday afternoon.
My camp trailer was my testing device.
I woulda thought they woulda also checked it to see if it works-there has gotta be a simple tester they can hook up?
I spoke with the owner of the dealership. I mentioned that maybe if they were willing to split it, that would atleast be better then me paying $99 more. So they are willing. Still don't feel right about it (don't get my wife started on it either) But I guess if they will put it in WRITING that it WILL work, as intended, comes up on EVIC and all. And it doesn't bug me a bit to reach the controls, but is it pure rumor the controls on the steering wheel (control stereo ) can control this? Not a biggie, I just want it to work like it does for a factory equiped one. And, he said $99, so that means to me, 49.50 is my half. Geeez
If you download the true owners manual from Dodge, the section covering the ITBM is clear, the controller is adjusted by the +/- gain controls on the unit itself. If the computer is flashed to upgrade the software for the ITBM, then the readout can be monitored on the EVIC, nothing more.
Just installed one on my 10 yesterday. Ordered the tan panel and controller, funny thing was I didnt get the two screws to secure the controller to the panel. Aside from that issue, install was a snap and works great. Pulling a 20ft Vnose dual axle @ 6500lbs, set at 3.5 works without surging at low speed braking.
I wanna try this with an 09 I have the four wires figured out but the other 3 on the small side I can find them in the cluster but I am going to have to be sure they are the correct ones. This is what I am told:
You can measure the canbus lines for voltage as well. With the key on with my 2010 (not sure about 09)truck, the WT/LB line measured ~2.65 VDC. The WT/LG line measured ~2.35 VDC. I may have these backwards, but I do recall about 0.3 VDC difference between the two white canbus lines. I do remember I measured the very same voltage on the respective white leads w/ darker stripes going to the OBDC connector. I would start with measurements of those lines to give you a frame of reference.
You can measure the canbus lines for voltage as well. With the key on with my 2010 (not sure about 09)truck, the WT/LB line measured ~2.65 VDC. The WT/LG line measured ~2.35 VDC. I may have these backwards, but I do recall about 0.3 VDC difference between the two white canbus lines. I do remember I measured the very same voltage on the respective white leads w/ darker stripes going to the OBDC connector. I would start with measurements of those lines to give you a frame of reference.
You can measure the canbus lines for voltage as well. With the key on with my 2010 (not sure about 09)truck, the WT/LB line measured ~2.65 VDC. The WT/LG line measured ~2.35 VDC. I may have these backwards, but I do recall about 0.3 VDC difference between the two white canbus lines. I do remember I measured the very same voltage on the respective white leads w/ darker stripes going to the OBDC connector. I would start with measurements of those lines to give you a frame of reference.
Last edited by ken99; Sep 27, 2010 at 01:39 AM.
Oh, I know the controls on the controller control the trailer brake...just a RUMOR somebody had started. No big deal, as you really don't adjust too often! Too easy! As for the manual, thanks. Speaking of that, mine did come with one. What I was talking about them testing to see if something works, woulda thought a simple test light woulda been used at the dealership (less than a minute) to know that it works.
Do you cook with spam as well (http://www.ramforumz.com/showpost.ph...&postcount=105)?
I have a 2012 they are prepping for me at the dealer and I told them to install the brake controller. Its a Big Horn pretty well loaded and it does not have the second plug. I am pretty pissed right now.. Almost ready to kill the deal over this..



