Cool, thanks again. It shows they are on back order. So I think I will wait a few days then order the 5k for my low beams.

 

Actually no. The set up i posted is for LOW beam daily driving lights ..
The low beam lights are the ONLY lights that are hooked up to the trucks CPU. The HIGH's and FOG's do NOT require any kind of special cancelers or capacitors and on my truck work FINE with nothing more than the ballast and bulb.

Good luck.

 

Ok, now I am a little confused. Why is it that some need the cancelers and some don't. Is it going to hurt the lights if you put the cancelers in anyway? So Chrisp929 what kind of lights do you have?

Ok, nevermind if I am going to put HIDs in the High beams or on the Fog lights I won't need the cancelers. I will only need them if I am doing my Low beam headlights. I think I got it now. Thanks guys.

 

correct. You only need cancelers with low's .. and you only need capacitors with VERY FEW dodge rams .. if you read the previous disclaimer by the other company selling the HID's .. you will note that they ( their cancelers ) work on 93% of 09-10 dodge rams .. there are a select number of rams ( like mine for some ungodly reason ) where the electronic cancelers don't work .. the electronic cancelers i refer to are either the built in ones inside the ballast already, or the add ons with a square body to them .. the square bodied cancelers are nothing mor ethan circuit boards covered with a hardened epoxy to make weathertight ..

you might not need the home brew capacitors like i did for my LOWS .. but then again you may .. so if you DO buy some HID's and can't get them to work, don't give up like i almost did ... use my fix i mentioned .. it WORKS ..

you have no idea how dissapointed i was . and just how many times i took my front grill off and removed the headlights .. i must have done it 10 times trying 10 different ways to fix the issue .. ONLY the capacitors worked for me.. I got mine from twiggy and of the probably thousands of kits he sold, i was the ONLY one who had the problems i was having .. it's a one in a thousand thing .. like twigg said, my PCU must be EXTRA smart because the circuit board cancelers didn't fool my PCU for long .. but he plain old fashioned capacitors work perfectly ..

don't hesistate .. trust me .. buy a good set .. it's worth it ..

 

Sorry, I don't want to jack this thread, but I am not quite getting this. You're saying that electrical tape is not appropriate for use with electronics? How could electrical tape possibly cause heating and premature failure?

 

I think he means wraping the entire capacitor with tape is a bad idea since it will insulate the capacitor causing it to overheat.

 

sorry about your problems chrisp. So then what do you considerd a good set of HIDs. The ones that cpelton showed me seemd pretty good, and the ones from HIDextra seem pretty good also. There are so many out there it is hard to tell what ones are good, and what ones are not. As of now I am leaning towards the ones that cpelton showed me. Anothere thing, can you put 55w fog lights in without a ballast or cancelors, or will it melt the wiring harness. Sorry for all the questions, but I want to make sure I do this right the first time.

 

That makes sense...

 

i have no idea about the 55w set up .. 35w is the standard .. i would stick to that personally but again i am not an electrical engineer ...

as far as which set up is good . there are many out there .. your welcome to email me if you prefer my opinion i will share mine with you away from this forum ..

again .. the individual who posted the comment claimed to be an electrical engineer .. if so, then his recommendation not to wrap the capacitors in tape is probably a good one ... except in this case ... and i say that only because i ran my truck with the engine running, and both fogs and low's on for at least 20 minutes in my garage with the door open for exhaust fumes .. and the capacitors NEVER ONCE got above ambient room temperature .. the even felt cold to the touch .. in this case, with the amperage, and voltage, and the size of the caapcitor involved, heat i don't think will ever be an issue .. i think the previous parties comment is very true in most electrical components like computers, circuit boards etc .. but in my case, its fine .. again .. im just a schmo from upstate NY who is a shade tree mechanic .. what do i know ..

 

i'd go with the 35 watt, Those are what I have and they are plenty bright. 55 watt you might run the risk of discoloring your lens from the heat. You would still need ballasts and cancelers of course. You can't have HID's without ballasts.