Tired of getting screwed over by the new car dealers? If you are looking to get the best deal on your new Dodge, then you are going to need to educate yourself on the buying process. I went to this site that taught me how to become an excellent negotiator in very little time. It attacked question like: How to buy a new Dodge at invoice price? What is dealer holdback and how can this save me money? This is a very comprehensive email that breaks down the whole buying process from the second you first contact the Dodge dealer until you sign the final papers. They will send you a “Dealer Negotiation Secrets and Tricks Guide” which will give you all of the information you need in order to make the best possible decision on your new Dodge. I just printed out the email and gave it to my Dodge sales guy and was able to purchase my new car below invoice. Dodge dealers negotiate every day with the customers, but now it is your chance to have the upper hand. This is a must read if you are in the market for a new car, check out the site below:
newdodgeincentives.com

 

Pretty much on all new rams here in Oklahoma I've learned you can take 24% off sticker right off the bat np

 

Seems unlikely... I did a lot of price research in April, May, and June, and that was not a common situation then. Unless a lot of dealers are trying to unload their '10 models I am skeptical if '24% right off the bat' is the norm.

Rob

 

I had 3 guys at work get that price and I actually got even more than that due to them needing the sale at the end of the month. The preferred pricing is already 3-4K (depending on options) off sticker and on top of that you also get the rebates placing most trucks between 6-9K (again depending on options) which equal around 24% right off the bat. Preferred pricing (you get to see the actual invoice and the preferred customer pricing are on there) is below invoice, normally thru companies like mine that have an employee purchase program thru them. One guy up here used that where the other two did not and still get 23.8 and 24.1% off their prices. With all this being said they wouldn’t offer this pricing if they still didn’t make money on these deals so anyone with any ability to haggle should be able to get this price.
I went at the end of the month and over heard the sales manager complain about the lack of sales that month (I wasn’t in the market just picking my wife’s jeep up) so I started talking to them. After 3hrs I paid 26,400 on a truck with a sticker price of 37,900.

Check out fowler dodge in Oklahoma City and you will see a lot for 20-26% off sticker. This is where I purchased mine. Same with David Stanley and my friends got theirs at Norman dodge....it’s the norm here if your an intelligent purchaser.

 

I read in a Consumer Reports Car Guide that the happiest buyers and owners bought a truck and did not worry about the deal...cause the deal is relative to the market and the desire to own a specific vehicle and specific model...oh yeah...they also probably paid the most as well...I dickered till they just about threw me out and then I asked for a little more, shoot they would even give me a hat...but I got my truck and am very happy with it...

 

I'm cheap when it comes to big purchases lol but yeah your right doesnt really matter how much you paid as long as you are happy with what you got and it was worth it to you.......I'm VERY happy with the truck and as of now would buy it all over again

 

Like the 1st commen[[mycarspot] said " dealer invoice , rebates come off that NOT the window sticker... Hold back money also .... When you go in to the Finace person, tell him straight up on your credit score good or bad... Also tell him you will not tolerate him on pricing a extended warrnty , or gap ... Get each one seperate. On the warranty dealers cost + 5-10 %

 

I love these threads. I'm going to put an end to all the bs out there on how to get a good deal. It's really simple.

You can't expect 24% off MSRP, out of the dealership's hide. Honestly, that's just insane.

You need to shop by invoice. Any dealer that is willing to sell you at invoice should be your top pick.

Then you ask for the holdback. Most dealerships won't give it up, and guess what? To be blunt, it's none of your business what the holdback is. That is profit given to the dealer from Dodge because they know that the customer is going to beat them up on price. If they give that up, that is awesome!

Next, you shop out your trades ACV (actual cash value). This is NOT your TRADE ALLOWANCE. This is the value of your trade via a wholesale or auction backing, found through that dealership. If they sold it tomorrow...how much cash would they get. The trade allowance is usually higher than ACV. The difference between Trade Allowance and ACV is lost profit on the front end of the deal. The ACV will change from dealership to dealership. However, it should be really close. Any dealership that won't give you the ACV seperate from your Trade Allowance doesn't deserve your business. A dealer can take your trade in and sell it for more than what they ACV it. That is back ended gross. It doesn't happen often. A good sales manager should be hitting the marks so close that they wash out wholesale or make a few hundred bucks.

Don't expect to get a near retail trade allowance on a new vehicle that they are giving up at invoice with or without hold back.

Rebates have absolutely nothing to do with the dealership, their profit margin or their bottom line. So please, stop saying that you got $10,000 off MSRP! I hate it when dealers roll the rebate into the discount or when sales people qoute the rebate as part of the trade allowance. It's not the same. You pay sales tax on that rebate. You don't pay sales tax on anything but the trade difference.

Once you have your highest ACV and have a dealer that will sell you a vehicle at Invoice, buy. Don't waste their time on throwing in Mickey Mouse crap.

Do not entertain a warranty unless they can prove to you their cost (they can). Do not buy any fabric protection or undercoating.

Gap insurance is a must buy unless you're putting down 50%. Dealers usually mark up the cost of Gap insurance. Most of the time their cost is between $105-$150 (NYS) cost. The rest is a mark up.

The dealer will also have a process, documentation or some other fee related to their paperwork process. They usually have a huge markup on that. In NYS the max fee is $75. In any other state there is no cap. Many dealerships will charge $300 for this.

So, between GAP and Doc fees, they make a substantial back ended gross. Do not let this happen to you. I deal with this ever day. Dealerships in VT can advertise prices that we can't touch here in NYS. Then, once the customer is signing the paperwork for the truck, they get hit with these fees and end up paying more than they would have in NYS.

That's how you do it. There is simply no better way to buy a new vehicle. This is how all dealerships operate. Period.

 

Listen to Psycareyo and you'll pay WAY to much. I JUST bought my truck last week (6/30/10-last day of the month) and paid 25 and change when the sticker was 37 and some change. If you want to see the proof that a dealership can sell these at this price and make profit (cause they will not let a car go without making profit "Period") then you can even go to fowler dodge of oklahoma and look on their site where they have some trucks as much as 10k off.
As I have said I knwo of 3 other people that got this deal and its the only reason I went in knowing I could and did.
I agree with the gap insurance

 

I disagree they will sell certain vehicles at certain times and take a loss. Like pretty soon when they start unloading the 2010's that are left. Remember if you wait till the 2011 are actually on the lots..then you can get a10 for less than cost. They can't and don't keep them around long.