Only the 2500-3500 require new shocks. They are recommended for 1500's but my installer said that mine worked out great. The Daystar rep also said that I would likely not need them. If you are concerned about the idea of having to buy new shocks, I would strongly consider not leveling your vehicle. Any spacer that raises the vehicle that much could require a new shock, depending on your spring rate. I went into this knowing that I might have to purchase new shocks, and they are super easy to install. Three bolts and they pop right out and right back in. Also, they are not quite $100 more. Here, they are sold for $125 with free shipping. That's $85 more than the 1.5" spacers, and still cheaper than most of the other kits I've found.

http://www.amazon.com/Daystar-KC0910...7386424&sr=8-1

It's about as level as it can get. Depending on where I park it is either slightly higher in the front or slightly higher in the back. It looks natural in any position, however, which was important to me. What exactly did you find out about the spring rates? Are the Hemi's softer or more stiff?

I agree about measuring them, Doc. You can compare the measurements to the one's we've discussed earlier. Since Daystar is calling them a 2.5" spacer depending on where you look, I am wondering if that may be the taller spacer that BULLRAM tried before. If the total height of the spacer is 2.5", you should have similar results to mine.

 

Yes do measure them, you would be suprised that a lot of mechanics dont know and just put them in.......the length of our shock on our vehicle is what keeps the control arm from hitting the coil bucket, if you put on LONGER shocks it WILL hit, that is why we keep the stock shocks, you can put better (same size) shocks,and that will help the ride more and that is what they are trying to tell us, the stocks work good, it is just that the spring NOW has a different rate since it is compressed more, so that is why you will see the washer trick, or NOW the coil spacers are starting to come with small spacers for the top stud of the shock, you put them on the stud and that makes the shock a tiny bit longer ,since the stud doesnt go all the way out of the hole on top, still plenty to put the nut on, but the shock will effectivly be longer, it gets REAL close to the control arm but doesnt hit. 2 companies I know of have those in there kits for our trucks.

 

I tried very hard to follow this, but I can't say I understand what you mean about the control arm hitting the wheel, and I can't understand how the length of the shock would have anything to do with that. I'm going to look at the suspension later today and see if I can make any sense out of it.

All my mechanic said of my shocks was that to put them back in, he had to put a little weight on the vehicle, I'm guessing so that the stud went through enough to put the nut on. I didn't think that sounded so great. My thought was that meant the the shock was fully extended when the vehicle is at rest, but according to him, it's not a problem at all.

 

All my mechanic said of my shocks was that to put them back in, he had to put a little weight on the vehicle, I'm guessing so that the stud went through enough to put the nut on. I didn't think that sounded so great. My thought was that meant the the shock was fully extended when the vehicle is at rest, but according to him, it's not a problem at all.


I will try and find my picture of how it hits
what he ment was.......when you put the shock back in,the stock spring w/o a spacer is shorter than with the spacerthat makes it easier to get it in, the compression of the spring is so great after the spacer installed, that it is hard to get the shocks stud to go up through the hole, nothing wrong at all ,they all do that, you either ,put the trucks weight on it, or jack up the bottom control arm till it comes through,after the nut and rubber and washer is on there, you release the jack, and it is installed, the spring tries to naturally move the control arms away from each other, since the spring is in between them ,the shock stops them as far as its length. I know it is confusing, you sometimes have to see it work up and down , then it comes to you easily.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...R/DSC02239.jpg
OK look at this picture its my control arm clearence, the upper and lower control arms are tied together by the spindle or knuckle, the part where the tire sits on, picture having no shock or spring on there and no tire, if you raise the upper control arm the bottom will move up with it and down with it, how far it drops is called droop or drop, now when you put a spring in between them it fits in a coil bucket at the top, and that part cant move its welded on the frame, so when the spring tries to extend it pushes the bottom control arm down and the top one comes down also and raises the truck how ever far, a spacer will make the spring even stiffer pushing down on the lower control arm raising the truck further, the upper control arm will travel down and hit the top of the coil bucket that doesnt move, that is why you want to keep the stock length of shock, they already figured out how far the arms can move ,so it wont hit, if you keep the stock shocks you can raise it right up with no worries, BUT the bigger the spacer the more stiff the ride will be ,and longer shocks will let the upper control arm come in contact with the coil bucket if you hit a bump,or the tire drops in a hole,
I hope I didnt confuse you more


picture of spring on lower control arm and in coil bucket at top the number 2 is a spring compressor
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...DER/165257.jpg

picture of steering knuckle attached to upper and lower control arm

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...DER/165253.jpg

 

Yeah, that makes sense. What confused me was that in your previous post you said it would hit the "wheel", but I see now you changed that to "coil bucket." That's good to know. Basically, a longer shock gives the upper control arm more downward travel and will allow it to hit the coil bucket.

 

LOL............. that is called typing faster than I was thnking

 

will do on the measurement guys

 

Doc, this is how it gets sometimes, these are (2 INCH LEVELING SPACERS),SUPPOSEDLY..........thes are NOT 2 inch spacers, more like 4 inch,total height was as you can see 3 inches ,and look into the spacer you can see the coil seat was about one inch.,these were real bad, and the company told me over and over they were 2 inch, it is the largest spacer company seller................

 

yea but what is the height from where the spring seat and the top?