I'm at 30K, so I'm supposed to get the 16 plugs replaced in my Hemi. Dealer says $293 to do the job, so I'm thinking maybe I'll just do it myself.

For those who have replaced them on your own, how bad is it getting to all the plugs? And where did you get your plugs from - how much? I want to stick with the stock NGK plugs, it appears that they are OEM only. Found a place that looks like they sell them for $60 - set of 16.

 

I changed them on my 06 hemi it sucks but not impossible. The older style rams I think are easier because the grill went up with the hood and i just used the radiator for support but had a sore chest the next day. The worst side is drivers side by the brake booster those two are tricky. The passenger side is ok you can remove the air box for more room. Like I said they are not impossible, if can change your own oil you can do this. As far as what brand of plug to use no clue my 06 I switched to autolite
Platinum and I gained 2 MPGs. The new trucks ?????

 

Sounds like fun. I figured it must be a bad job if they are actually charging 250 in labor to do it.

 

You did it the wrong way if you had a sore chest.... I put my azz on the support bar and sat in the bay. It was VERY easy that way.

Now, with the 4th Gen, not sure we can pull that off.

 

I used a collapseable work bench. And stood on that it was the perfect height. Just opened up the legs and stood on it in the down position. Copper champions. good for 50k I'll do that easily before I do that again lol. j/k Just over thirty bucks. at napa. Your gonna need a retractable magnet, two socket sets. (you need the extensions) A swivel socket and a decent socket wrench. Start with the hardest, then the rest is just methodical. 5 hrs is the standard, take your time. and don't drop any thing without a blanket underneath. I lost a coil pack screw, the last one. replaced it wit an autodody bolt. It fit. thats all that matters , good luck!! The hard ones you have too detach from the extension and still hold the socket too escape the well. Thats when I dropped it and used the magnet too retrieve it. You need too in stall the same way. I did one coil pack ata time. detaching two and working on the other. then working on the other.

 

I was told if you take off the wheel and pull out the plastic wheel well which supposedly comes out easy then you can get to them all thru there. Never tried it was told by a guy around here that has an 09 and he drives it back and forth up North a lot, he has changed them 3 times like this, he said the second set at 60k(miles) they were like new he cleaned them a bit and gapped them, they were not even out and put them back in but bought a set for warranty in case he had an issue. He pulled a couple out just to check 10k later still like new. I found this interesting and odd. He is stock basically as far as the motor, no tuner, air , nothing he just changes oil 3k miles like clockwork, keeps air filter clean, he said he did have that fuel injection cleaner deal the dealer always pushes on ya after you get a few miles and he said it helped for mileage and it was done during that second set of plugs. I haven't kept up with him since, but I believe he has changed out that set by now, time alone and his mileage. My truck is a year and 5 mos and we have 11600kilometres....close to what 7000 miles. I wont need plugs for a few years. Will let the dealer do it for sure since they will probably strip out one from rust being that long and well I will let them pay for that not me. They got me once when I had my 98dakota and in had 318 hard to keep tires on the back anyway, I wanted to paint my rotors so I figured take them off would be easier to clean them well the bolts brought the threads with them just rusted to crap. Luckily this guy around here came over does house and business calls Spark Plug Doctor, anyway he specialized in plugs but came with the bolts for my truck and he drilled it out and put in a heli coil and all worked well. My 72 chevy the lowered spindles on both sides I had to put something else I found at Murrays it is the caliper bolt that cuts itself a new thread and you put a cotter pin in it. Got a feeling gonna need new dropped spindles if I ever have to take those out.

 

Finally got around to replacing them this morning (34K miles).

Tools needed:
10mm socket and 1/4 ratchet
Magnetic plug socket
short extension for 3/8 ratchet
3/8" wobble
3/8" ratchet

That's about it. Biggest pain for me was getting the rear coil pack on the passenger side out. Heater hoses and a big wiring harness are in the way and even when disconnected it wasn't easy.

Took a little less than 2 hours. Plugs really didn't look like they needed to be replaced. All were still within .001 of spec and showed no real wear on the electrode.

 

Cool , Great time . was that start to finish, or just the plugs? Ie;air box, coil packs ,ya know the stuff thats in the way. Cuz that eats up time too. then it all goes back, lol.

 

Did any of you actually go in and use a torque wrench? Just curious because I did it due to the torque sheet having this statement on it. It's also hard to get an accurate torque due to multiple extensions and a wobble adaptor.

18Nm +/-3 do not exceed 21Nm due to "Torque critical tapered design of the spark plug".

 

Start to finish.

Air box just lifts out once you remove the 2 hoses and the cover over the motor also just lifts off.