As determined by what empirical tests?

 

Do a search anywhere on the internet, you`ll find ALL kinds of results.
I could put hundreds of oil test links in here, but thats a waist of my time.
Do your own searching, ther`s plenty of info out there, then YOU decide whats good or not

Bottom line, oil is no different than humans, some work, some dont

 

Its nice we have choice`s... so go ahead and use whatever you want.
Mobil 1 seems to be the choice of many here. Valvoline IS just as good..!

 

As already stated, most oils will perform well if changed in correct intervals. More importantly is using the correct weight oil. 5w/20 should be used in the Hemi. Todays motors use small oil veins to increase oil pressures and the smaller veins actually provide faster oil flow to critical upper engine parts at start up. Using a heavier grade oil (even 5w/30) causes less oil to be delivered and the veins to become clogged up. Results= premature engine failure. Hope this helps.

 

Small veins...says who, lol? Too much up top and not enough going to the lower end is usually the case because of the large oil holes in the lifter bores for hydraulic lifters or in our case, the crappy MDS lifters. I haven't seen the inside of one of these Hemi's so I can't swear to it, but I'd be willing to bet that they are too large and rob the lower end of oil pressure where it's needed the most. Fact: The lifters in the 5.7 are DEFECTS...they have issues staying pumped up over night...that is a BIG no no! Fact: that is what is causing the so called Hemi tick...PERIOD...nothing else! Fact: when they bleed down you will hear the ticking (more like tapping) until they pump up. Fact: when lifters bleed down, the required hydraulic 0 lash adjustment becomes 20 to 45 thousandths (example) instead of 0. Fact: it can be solved by using a set of much improved 6.1 or after market lifters. What gets me is why Chrysler continues to use these while knowing about this! Are they trying to get them off the shelves or what? I'm not making this stuff up and we need to do something about it...like COMPLAIN to Chrysler instead of debating about who has the best oil and which is the best to use, lol! I agree that you should use the 5W-20 oil to protect your warranty, but I can't blame anyone for trying different oils and weights because of this ticking crap...for each his own, you all have my blessings! We need to start a sticky with a list of people who have ticking issues and then slam it in Chryslers face in order to get this resolved. It is a serious issue and they will keep down playing it until WE do something about it. They should replace our damn lifters, for every one of us with the 6.1's...PERIOD!

 

in my case i dont think it is the lifter,the sound is to loud,and i have to wait the engine reach about 70 degre C before the sound go away,as long the engine is at normal temp about 94 C i have no sound at all.

 

Proof?

 

zx14k, if you say the sound is too loud then I'm sure it's not but it could be coming from your valve train because of the lifters. jayman84, the first proof I saw was a 5.7 build in Popular Hotrod describing all of the pros and cons of this particular build. The article states that if you are doing a similar build, they instruct you to change the problematic 5.7 MDS lifters to 6.1's or better, use after market pistons with stronger or thicker skirts for use of higher CR's, and different heads if you are porting because of the thin upper intake or exhaust (I forgot which one or if both) wall. It also mentioned the limitations of how far you could stroke the engine without the lower piston protruding too far past the bottom of the cylinder wall. I'll try to find the article and get back on here with the dates. Second, I spoke to several pro builders who confirmed everything about this article and the 5.7 build both pros and cons and have read several articles on these issues from different builders. As it stands and prior to the new 6.1 aluminum block, it was recommended that you do not go past 11.5 to 1 CR because of the thin piston skirting, and 4.25 in stroke with 4.0 in being the most favorable to last the longest and with less wear on the lower end of the cylinder walls leading to catastrophic failure. That being said, the 440 cast iron stroker is maxed out in every which way possible. And last, I know how lifters work and how to trouble shoot them so from my own experience, the anti pressure reliel valve spring sounds to be the culprit not working with the MDS. If anyone here thinks differently, find me a sucessful cast iron build stroked over 4.25 or with a CR over 11.5 and proof with no issues. For starters, check Performance Werks Racing builds...even their best and most powerful 468 aluminum block is stroked at 4.25 in and their perfered choice of a 440 build is only a 4.05 in stroke, they're not stupid, lol! The 440 4.05 stroke is more favorable and a better build combo than the cast 440 4.25 stroke via stroke to bore ratio though you could go all the way to 4.250 with the new aluminum block for close to 500 cubes. Call any engine builder and ask them about the 5.7 lifters and their cons, tell them about your liftersbleeding down because that is what they are doing and they will tell you that and why.

 

As a matter of fact, all of you guys with this problem, call competition cams and describe your lifter noise situation and I guarantee you they will say the same thing...they are bleeding down and are NOT supposed to, call a mechanic as well, lol! You Chrysler techs on here...I challenge you to a debate on this. I know you are out there so come out of hiding and try to tell someone like me who knows different...I promise to keep it civil and professional, lol! PS: Just so you'll know, when you buy and receive new a set of hydraulic lifters they do not always come fully pumped up. And it is recommended that you soak them in oil over night to fill them before installing. If you were to hold a collapsed lifter in one hand and a pumped up lifter in the other you would see a huge difference in height between the two. You would also see the center valve pushed way down into the collapsed lifter which is where the pushrod rest. So when your lifters are tapping, they are collapsed and would look like the collapsed one in your hand. You could also push the center of the collapsed lifter in where as the pumped up lifter would be rigid and hard or solid. Go to an auto parts store and look at them, ask them as well about how they are supposed to work and about your tapping issues.

 

I will agree with you 100% on your argument but i will also say this, anyone who has done research on doing heavy upgrades to these motors know (or at least should know) that any major performance upgrade other than a intake or exhaust will require that you upgrade the lifters and disable the mds system. But for most of us who just put on a cai and swap out the muffler will be perfectly fine with the stock setup.