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piston slap

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Old Jan 4, 2011 | 05:19 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by jayman84
I will agree with you 100% on your argument but i will also say this, anyone who has done research on doing heavy upgrades to these motors know (or at least should know) that any major performance upgrade other than a intake or exhaust will require that you upgrade the lifters and disable the mds system. But for most of us who just put on a cai and swap out the muffler will be perfectly fine with the stock setup.
Sry...let me refrase that...the PHR article list the lifters as bad and conflicting with MDS while the 6.1's do not, piston skirt thickness, and intake port thickness on the 5.7 head as CONS on the stock 5.7 whether you build or not. This build was to show how to perfect the 5.7, and eliminate the cons. And you do not have to disable MDS when using the correct after market cams, Competitions XFI Series is specifically made for the Hemi MDS and there are three of them to choose from and with the mildest one there is no need for upgrading anything according to Competition Cams. But you are right, it is best to upgrade everything when installing a new cam just to be safe. However, I can see that I can explain till I'm blue in the face about our lifters bleeding down and not get anywhere, lol. So you guys should just GOOGLE hydraulic bleed down and see for yourself what causes it and what damage it has to your engine and performance. And I'm telling everyone here with lifter tapping...that your lifters are bleeding down and need to be replaced. If you don't want them replaced and can live with Ford and Chevy guys staring and laughing at your new truck ticking, then leave them be, I'm getting mine fixed by Chrysler one way or another before I pull my engine for my build so I can sell it or use it in something else.
 
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Old Jan 7, 2011 | 10:11 AM
  #32  
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I have a 2004 Hemi in my Dakota.It does tic on the left bank. I used a 2003 wiring harness and computer for the swap. 2003 didn't have EGR .BUT, My Motor does. That's the side it's ticking on..would that have any thing to do with it.??
 
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Old Jan 7, 2011 | 10:59 AM
  #33  
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OIL-
according to the Haynes Dodge repair manual, 2003-04' Hemi's get 5.W-30. and the 05' and up get 5.W-20.. I went with full synthetic 5- months ago when I first started driving my truck..But it seems to be breaking down . It has a burnt smell and the color don't seem to be right..It looks like it's "too brown"..I used that -"Wal-Mart "I think it's called syntek, comes in a silver container..
Is this stuff any good ? I'm going to do another oil change this evening..Will it hurt the motor to go back to regular oil , or should I stick with Synthetic.?The motor only has about 36.000 miles and I have a tick in a lifter already ..Maybe my oil is what's causing the lifter not to pump up "OR" it's the lifter itself..I'll know more after this oil change...
I'm also doing a plug change .I've bought Autolite Platinum AP5263..All of the Champions I've removed so far look great..one little light tan spot on each one..
 
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Old Jan 8, 2011 | 10:28 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by HemiDak-Quad
I have a 2004 Hemi in my Dakota.It does tic on the left bank. I used a 2003 wiring harness and computer for the swap. 2003 didn't have EGR .BUT, My Motor does. That's the side it's ticking on..would that have any thing to do with it.??
Your dakota dosen`t have the MDS engine, so i`m betting its an exhaust bolt issue is why you might be hearing the "ticking"
BUT, if your oil is really dirty brown like you say, lifters dont like that, and can tick also.

As for your question on the oil... (how many miles are you going before changing it...?)
Walmart oil i believe is handled by castrol these days. Its basically good for your lawn mower.
(walmart oil = castrol`s bottom of the barrel, not "full synthetic" either)
Step up to mobil 1 or 5w20 synthetic valvoline (i change mine every 5,000)
Valvoline also has a 300,000 mile garantee (if you register your vehicle with them)
 
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Old Jan 8, 2011 | 10:31 AM
  #35  
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re: HemiDak-Quad
"I've bought Autolite Platinum AP5263..All of the Champions I've removed so far look great"

Why ruin a good thing, put the OEM champions back in it
If it ain`t broke, dont try to fix it
 
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Old Jan 9, 2011 | 08:49 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by zx14k
HI i have a klunk klunk klunk........in my 2009 hemi with 12000 miles.it only happen wen the engine is cold. i went to the dealer they keep it overnight to listen at the sound in the morning and tell me it is normal for most hemi and this is not a problem and they call that piston slap or something like that.what do you think. thank
I think I know the Klunking/Knocking you are talking about. Mine has done it since new and I have about 20K on it now. It only does it until it gets warmed up. It is worse in the winter when it sits out. It is not a ticking noise, I have the same noise you do. It almost sounds likie a diesel, just not as loud right? As far as oil, mine has been dealer serviced since new, so whatever they put in it is what it has. I feel as long as it is under warranty, they will do the changes. $37 oil change is worth it to me.
 

Last edited by Brummo; Jan 9, 2011 at 10:34 AM.
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Old Jan 9, 2011 | 05:28 PM
  #37  
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Oil preference...Mobil 1 (preference), Castrol Edge, or Valvoline...that's all....and which ever one is one sale....and only a great filter...Wix, Napa...(wix) or Bosch...Everything else is not for me....
BTW...31K never seen the shop...love this truck!!!! and I use it hard.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2011 | 08:35 PM
  #38  
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My ticking is very quiet ..It's in the front. It sounds like maybe an exhaust leak in the front cylinder..I have the EGR setup on my motor, but no wires going to it..I thought maybe that might have something to do with it..The right side makes no sound at all..
It almost sounds like it might be coming from my generator..But it's such a low tap I can't pinpoint it..I can hear it "Lightly" in front of the truck, with the hood down..
Hopefully it will go away with this next oil change..It didn't do it until I switched to synthetic oil..I think-I'm going with Castrol GTX 5w-30, half synthetic this time..
 
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Old Jan 9, 2011 | 08:41 PM
  #39  
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I don't like Champion plugs..They foul too fast..I've been Riding harley's for 25 years and I have never been able to keep a champion in an older model Harley for very long..The old shovelheads pans , and sportsters, Hate them..It left a bad taste in my mouth for that plug..That's why I removed them from my Hemi..I could be wrong, but I've heard good things about the Autolite Platinum..If anyone knows something I don't about them, I'll listen..
 
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Old Jan 10, 2011 | 11:33 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by HemiDak-Quad
I don't like Champion plugs..They foul too fast..I've been Riding harley's for 25 years and I have never been able to keep a champion in an older model Harley for very long..The old shovelheads pans , and sportsters, Hate them..It left a bad taste in my mouth for that plug..That's why I removed them from my Hemi..I could be wrong, but I've heard good things about the Autolite Platinum..If anyone knows something I don't about them, I'll listen..
Dont meen to hi jack or get off topic, but.....,
It wasnt the champion plugs that were bad, it was the shiddy ignition coils.
I`ve owned harleys for several yrs too, it was always junk coils that didnt put out enough spark, then the plugs would foul.
The plug wires back then sucked too...! Things are much better today.
After upgrading coils, i never had problems with champion ever again.
I`ve run autolites as well, didnt last any longer either.
 
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