Thanks Merv. I followed the instructions but did not need the extra 5/8 socket, only the plug remover one. Also, I used the newer "wobbly" extensions and they helped a lot. BTW I started another post in the general discussion area because I couldn't remember where I got your write up as I downloaded it some time ago and used when I got to 30K miles. I take no credit for your write up.

 

Great write up. I'm sitting close to 38k miles and am about to change them out. I've read from a few other threads that some people had no where near the damage to their plugs and they were supposedly still gapped correctly. I guess I should have went ahead and done mine at 30k. I'm a little worried what mine are going to look like now. Thanks for the info though. I will definitely be using this tomorrow.

 

I think I am gonna let the dealer do the first set in case there is any stuck ones, etc. just like I always let them do the first oil change for sure because sometimes the filter is a pita. I made a mistake and on my 98 dakota 2 years old not very many miles the front brakes needed changing so I have done this several times before, first time on this truck but anyway the threads in the caliper rusted out and when came time to put the bolts back in they would not tighten. 3 holes both on one side and one on the other. The dealer said they would have covered that if they would have been doing the brake job but since I did it they would not cover it. Well I paid a guy 50 a hole to put heli coils in it then I dumped it.

 

So I changed my plugs out and they were pretty simple. No problems getting them out, but it was kinda tight on the driverside towards the firewall. Gapping was all normal too. They were only off by about .02 and I saw no damage or anything. This was at 40k miles. I replaced them with the OEM plugs so there's no questions if I have issues later.

 

MERV,
G-R-E-A-T write up and photo`s...!!!!

Couple things i might add to it that may help....
1) Use the "Copper Anti-Sieze" instead of the aluminum anti-seize.
Copper anti-sieze is "Hi-Temp" rated, the aluminum anti-seize is not.
Most NAPA autostores carries the copper anti-seize in stock everyday. (auto zone as well)
Here is a link to show you what copper anti-seize is used for.
Read the "Suggested Applications:" Pretty much says it all for you. (i`ve used it for decades, no issues ever)
http://www.permatex.com/products/aut...ubricant_b.htm

2) Use a piece of reinforced rubber fuel hose to set your plugs back into the holes. Just slip the hose onto the plug, then you can carefully set the plugs in the hole, spin them down to seat them with the hose still on the plug, after seating the plug, pull the hose off the sparkplug, THEN tighten with your socket and rachet. I`ve seen plugs get damaged to easy by just dropping them into the hole and not to mention, try to get that plug socket back down onto the plug without a fight, and/or damageing the top of the plug trying to do so. The porcelin insultators crack VERY easy when installing without ALOT of care. If your engine skip`s or miss`s, you`ve likely cracked one on the install job. Nothing more disturbing than having to do the job all over again due to a bad plug.

Other than a couple things i`ve added, an EXCELLENT write up by "merv" and should be made a sticky...!!!!!

 

All the spark plug sockets I've ever used have foam in them to hold the plug. I guess the fuel hose trick would come in handy if you're using a regular socket. I would just buy a spark plug socket if you don't already have one.

 

Sometimes the sockets with the foam are impossible to get off the plug when its down in a hole. I wouldn't use a sparkplug socket to put the plugs back in with. A magnetic one might be okay although I've never used one.

 

Great writeup! Is there any advantage to buying a different "high performance" plug?

 

First, you need to define "performance." If you mean better gas mileage, more power, no spark plug is going to improve that. If you mean longer lasting, well maybe. You need to understand the benefits of whatever is being claimed by the design.

Different people will have different opinions, but as a person who did automobile repair at one time I found that using the factory specified plug for the engine rarely resulted any problems, but sometimes using a cross-referenced plug could cause a problem.

I used Bosch Platinum+4s in my Dakota for the last 100,000 miles that I owned it, with a change at 50,000 miles. Never had a problem. Then again, I never had a problem with the original Champions that came with it and I know plenty 4.7 owners that kept them in for much longer than the recommended 30,000 miles.

On the Hemi I think I may continue to use the factory plug because I'm really doubtful that a $12 or more spark plug is going to offer me any real benefit, especially since I don't believe in keeping plugs in until you notice a problem anyways.

I've talked to a few Hemi owners, some local Dodge techs, and read reports on the web of 5.7s going as long as 60,000 miles on the original plugs without any degradation in performance or fuel consumption. I just changed mine out at the recommended 30,000 and they looked pretty darn good, so I'm thinking I'll try sticking with them for a while.

Dusty
2010 Ram Big Horn 1500 Quad Cab 2WD, 5.7 Hemi, 545RFE, 3.92 LSD, dual exhaust, 20” wheels

 

When you check the gap how tight should the gap tool feel? Tight, snug, what?